How to install PRP Seats in an FJ - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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#1 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 12:14 AM
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How to install PRP Seats in an FJ

So basically while I was working overseas I was contacted by Metal Tech to see if I would be interested in purchasing one of their new seat lines. I had researched the PRP seats and liked that they had lots of different seat models and they custom configure the fabric/ vinyls to your liking for no extra charge.

The main issue as to why I haven’t purchased seats sooner was that very few had proper made seat brackets for the FJ and no one had an answer as to how to remove the SRS (side airbags in the factory seats) and not get dash lights/ error codes. Plus the passenger seat also has that nice annoying sensor that works on weight so if you have a heavy laptop bag and throw it in the seat- suddenly the FJ wants you to buckle up the passenger seat...

LT from MT basically sold me on the fact they had made a custom bracket for the FJ that used the factory seat slider (The addition of a slider from some companies can be an additional $200 per seat!) and they had found a company that made a "Plug and Play" electronic fix all that turned off the dash lights for the seat belts and the SRS! I was sold!

Ordered the seats and within a few weeks they were delivered. Since this package was brand new, instructions were still in development. LT was able to send me some great photos and stated once you see that their kit mimics the FJ stock set-up, you’ll be smooth sailing.

This is what I used from LT:







Let me state this first- I have no mechanical skills or electrical skills. This can be done by anyone but having the right tools is a must and take your time (this will make more sense when we get to the electrical area)

OK I’ve blabbed on enough- on with the install.

You'll need:

PRP seats (lots to choose from)
MT seat brackets for the FJ (must be assembled)
OCS Bypass module with Squibs






Tools-

Screwdrivers (Philips and flathead)
Metric/ standard sockets- I used metric for all
Socket wrench, extensions and a wobble extension helps a lot
T40 star socket (?)
Box/ open ended wrenches- metric and standard
(I had a cordless 1/2" impact which helped a lot- good to have friends with tools )
Wire cutters
Needle nose pliers
Soldering iron w/ lead free solder
Shrink wrap and heat gun- (optional but better in the long run)
Blanket to lay the seat on while working (need some space for this)- moving blankets work great
Work gloves- lots of sharp edges down there
Camera- This helped me to understand where all the electrical clips went when hooking it all back up. Also for the side bolts- take pics before pulling apart and reference when needed.
Small piece of plywood (to solder on)
Oven mitt/ welding glove- used to isolate the area being soldered so as to not melt other important wiring.



First things first- Understand this- You will be cutting and removing the SRS (side airbags) from your FJ and not placing them back in- if this does not bode well with you- stop here and go to another thread about another mod you like. You will be cutting/ altering the factory wiring to "fool" the FJ's computer into thinking the airbags are there to avoid the lights. The other air bags are not touched or altered (curtain and front airbags) and should work as intended. You’re basically installing a manual cut off switch for the passenger front air bag and eliminating the seat belt weight sensor. You are also, as stated before, altering the SRS wiring to eliminate any dash lights.

Now that this has been understood and you’re still interested- here’s the deal...

This will be the same for both passenger and drivers sides except when it gets to the electrical stuff. Otherwise- it will take you longer on the passenger side and once completed- the driver’s side will be a snap.

Start by removing the Negative ground from the battery and waiting 90 seconds- this clears the reserves for the SRS system.

Remove the floor mats and all plastic clips in the back which cover the rear bolts. They pop right off with a screwdriver and a little force.




Remove the plastic sides on the seat. They are held on by 1 small screw (Philips) in the rear where the hinge is, 1 clip at the top of the round hinge area, one clip in the center of the plastic piece and one slide on clip in the front of the seat. Remove screw 1st, pry off rear and center clips then slide off cover towards the front to remove from last clip. A small yellow clip is attached to the plastic center clip- don’t forget to reattach it to the plastic when removed and tape the small screw to the inside of the plastic piece to ensure it doesn’t get lost. Place aside- this does not get reused

Drivers side







Remove the (4) 14mm bolts holding the seat to the floor. This is where the impact helps. Be careful with some of you being in the snowbelt. These bolts can get crusty- don’t force them. If needed a little creeper oil and waiting might be necessary.



Once they are removed, turn the seat to the side so that you can work underneath it- be careful since the seat is tethered to the floor with electrical wiring- DONT YANK THE SEAT OUT!

Drivers side


Passengers side






Here where I did it two different ways with each seat to see which way I liked more-

My preferred way-


Take lots of pictures of these next steps as it will help you know which clips get reused and where to place the star bolts/ screws.

Using the T40 Star socket- remove the screws that anchor the seat to the slider frame. There should be 2 up front on both sides and 2-3 on each side in the rear of the slider. As you remove the fronts first, the frame will separate from the seat.



This allows you to reach in and unclip all the electrical clips that attach them to the frame. Just squeeze the tabs and the pull off the frame (I'm a believer that you should only cut off the least amount to preserve the parts in the event you sell and want to switch back to the stock parts- in other words- don’t break the clips). There will be clips on the seat that run the sensors and clips that attach to the slider frame. All are different so be patient and if needed refer to the FJ factory manual for how to separate them. Most popped apart with a little pressure and or using a small flat head screw driver. Separate the wiring loom from the seat frame and ensure its not snagged to any part of the frame/ seat

Drivers side



Passenger side



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#2 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 12:15 AM
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Re: How to install PRP Seats in an FJ

With the clips removed- you can then carefully remove the seat with half disconnected frame and lay down outside on the blanket. To keep the frame square, place the seat down in the same way it sits in the FJ. Once you remove the side star bolts/ screws, the frame gets flimsy. Remove the silver cross bar that holds the clips- this will not be used. Unfortunately neither will the ratchet system on the driver’s seat, but my seat sits higher than the factory seat did with the ratchet all the way up- good for seeing the corners when crawling.



Drivers side with ratchet system


Unused fasteners and springs after new seats are installed







This is an excellent time to clean the entire floor area of the FJ- It’s amazing how many French fries escaped from my mouth and fell into the crevasse between the seat and the center console…



Remove the rear star bolt/ screws (note- the seat belt has 2 screws and a 3rd underneath when removed. The passenger side has a thin metal tube that is threaded on each end - this will be reused. It sits in the rear of the frame of only the passenger side.

Take the kit (Bag 'O'Bolts) and all the MT / PRP seat tab brackets and lay them out.



Start assembling the Seat Frames that will attch to the factory slider frames. For this you will need the 3/8" Carriage Bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts. Taking the sides ("L" shaped pieces) and the top support, bolt them together by placing the carriage bolt through the top of the side supports (square end of the carriage bolt locks into square hole), through the corresponding hole in the top support and then add a washer, lock washer and then nut- each support will have a total of 6 bolts and there are 2 support assemblies for each seat. Note the rear sides are larger than the front. Also note the orientation of the brackets themselves. When assembled the tabs that anchor the new PRP seats to these supports will face forward and aft of the supports. Do not tighten these- leave them loose to allow side to side and forward and aft movement when the final assembly takes place.







Passenger and Drivers side supports look identical with the only difference being the addition of one clip that will hold the OCS on the passenger side

Grab the 5/16" hardware- Bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts- these will attach the front supports to the slider frame. The rear will be attached using the factory hardware.

Now take the supports (1 front and 1 back) and place them over the frame where the silver cross bar was and in the rear. The holes will only line up one way to fasten the rear since these are threaded. The thin tube for the passenger side is attached at the top holes making the 3 rear section bolts line up in a triangle formation. These can be tightened since they can only be configured one way- Leave the top support hardware loose (3/8"). Remember the seat belt has 1 bolt behind the bracket and 2 on the bracket itself. The Drivers side has a long bolt due to the spring mechanism used prior for the ratchet lifting system. None of these springs and flat faced silver screws will be reused (One factory bolt reused is silver but looks like the black ones)








Helpful hint- Tighten down the screw behind the seat belt bracket with the other 2 screws installed loosely- this will ensure they line up/ plate doesn’t shift when final torque is applied. Then remove the 2 other screws and attach the seatbelt bracket with them.





The front support is attached using 2 bolts per side. Place a bolt with washer through the support, then through the matching hole in the factory slider frame followed by another washer, lock washer and nut. Hand tighten. You should use all 8 bolts for the 2 front supports (drivers and passenger’s total)



Add 2nd washer


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#3 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 12:16 AM
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Re: How to install PRP Seats in an FJ

Take the PRP seat and place on top of supports and line up bolt holes for the seat to attach to the frame. Using the 8 large 7/16" bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts. Bolt, washer through seat tab, then through support tab, followed by 2nd washer, lock washer and then the nut- Tighten these down- sorry no specs but these are seats- not wanting them to be loose- ever!- I cranked them down!



Tip the seat upside down so the frame faces you- this is why the blanket helps so you can move the seat to better get at the bolts- use the sockets and wrenches for this (sorry don’t remember them all but if you’re like me- you just keep either going bigger or smaller till one fits



Now tighten all the carriage bolts on the top supports and 5/16" bolts on the front support. You should tighten a total of 12 X 3/8" carriage bolts and 4 X 5/16" bolts on the side of the front support. Make sure all bolts are tight- check and double check.



For the passenger side only- attach the OCS Bypass metal tab (small metal tab that looks like the tab the OCS was attached to on the silver cross member removed earlier). This is done by the 2 small bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts. Tighten these.

At this point you should have a few 3/8" washers left (if both frames are built together) with only 4 long skinny screws remaining with locking nuts and washers- these are for the "bling" tabs that cover the sides like the plastic one. They hide all the hardware.


I used blue 3M painters tape facing backwards behind the "Metal Tech 4x4" to add some additional bling and because I'm an advertising whore...







So at this point the main difference between the driver’s side and the passengers side are the following

More electrical clips to remove on the passenger side- 4 in the corners of the seat and one yellow (SRS), OCS system as well.

Passenger side also has the skinny tube used in the rear support up top. (sits right below the new rear support for the PRP seats

Driverside had the ratchet system with flat faced silver screws, springs and washer extensions (place these in a bag for future use- photos of these assembled are extremely helpful should you ever reattach the factory seats).

Otherwise they are the same.

At this point you assemble the side "bling" plates by threading the long screw through each hole and tightening a locking nut behind. now place another nut on in the opposite direction than the one installed before. Line up the with the holes on the PRP seat tabs (only ones that line up). Adjust the rearward facing nut so that the whole plate is parallel to the side of the seat. When satisfied, add the third nut on the other side of the tab which will lock the assembly to the slider frame.










If you decide to do each seat separately, the passenger side is more difficult do to the electrical but not that hard. I would recommend doing one at a time so the other side can be used for reference for the bolt placement.

Electrical

Passenger side


You’ll need the OCS Bypass Module and squibs supplied from MT.

As stated in the OCS Bypass instructions, remove the grey plug attached to the OCS and attach the OCS Bypass plug into the OCS.

Following the direction remove the correct wire from the black OCS clip (following removal from the OCS) and replace with the red single line sticking out of the Bypass. Make sure you line up the wire ends as stated in the directions in order for the wire lock to reengage the wires and keep them locked in. Plug black OCS clip back into OCS.

Decide where you want to place the Airbag shut off switch. There is sufficient wire to run up to the dash but I will make a small hole in the bling plate and attach there. Follow given directions on how to attach/ install switch.






Heat up soldering iron (Note- I did this on a small piece of plywood using the now vacant spot on the floor of the FJ). I also used a welder’s glove to isolate the heat from the soldering to the area being worked on. I never soldered before and found that if you lay the tip down alongside the area being worked on, the solder will flow better across the whole area. If you have someone with steady hands – this is great time to have them hold the pieces together while you start the solder. Once the 1st blob gets a hold of the 2 separate pieces, it will hold as you add additional solder. You don’t need a lot- just enough to tie the lines together.


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#4 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 12:16 AM
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Re: How to install PRP Seats in an FJ

Looking at the wiring loom in the FJ (this is the same for both Drivers and Passengers sides), Find the bright yellow. This is where you cut off factory clips and solder in a squib (small resistor). Since I do not plan on reusing my factory seats but want to keep them with their factory clips intact for resale, I chose to cut below the factory clip attached to the FJ. Cut as close to the clip as possible. Remove the electrical tape and pull out of wiring plastic wire retainer (don’t cut the heavy plastic wiring protector- just pull the wire out of it. This will be used to protect the wire when done. Only free up enough wire where the yellow wire is tied into the other wiring of the loom. Take one of the wires and remove/ splice the casing to expose 1/8” of wire (either wire works fine). Take that end and bend it back 180 degrees just past the exposed wire. Using the Squib as a length reference, lay one end on the exposed wire and cut the other wire off so that the squib can be attached to the 2nd wire at the end. You basically making a loop with the wire being bent since it’s more flexible. Splice the 2nd wire 1/8” to expose the wire. Solder the squib at both ends to the wire. Once cooled, pull gently to ensure connection is good- don’t use a lot od solder- use just enough. Now cover with enough heat shrink tubing to cover entire exposed squib and soldered connections. Using heat gun shrink wrap tubing over new connection. I used the welding glove to isolate the heat to just the wire being heat wrapped. Now wrap the end with electrical tape, and slide back into plastic wire retaining sleeve, Tape entire sleeve with electrical tape. This will protect the thin squib in the event something is forced under the seat.

















Place wiring loom in center of floor and carefully place seat back in FJ. Tilt seat rearward to allow for the clips to be refastened.

The Passenger side gets the seat belt re-clipped to the slider frame and clipped to the loom. The OCS gets attached to the metal tab that hangs off the front support. The remaining 4 clips that were attached to the 4 corners of the seat and the unused grey OCS clip are zip tied up and left unused. If you live in a snow belt where the possibility of excessive moisture could get into/ under the seat- I would wrap these unused connections with electrical tape to prevent moisture from entering. Zip tie the bundle up against the support to keep off floor under seat (this is done better when seat is laying down in its final position.




The Drivers side gets the seat belt tabs attached to the slider frame and the clip into the loom. The other clip that attached to the slider from the loom is also attached. The other 2 remaining clips are also refastened.

Line up the front seat bolt pegs to their holes, and then reattach the 4 factory bolts. Use some oil/ antiseize here to prevent any further issues if removal is needed. Torque down the 4 bolts. Test slider.



If all connections were done correctly, Once FJ’s battery is reconnected; no lights should appear on the dash after start up sequence is completed. With Airbag shut off switch on- the center dash light should say “Passenger Airbag ON”. Switched to off and the seatbelt light will light for a second and then all lights will shut off- the airbag is now off. REMEMBER TO TURN ON WHEN A PASSENGER IS OCCUPING THE SEAT.







Now go out and wheel with your new seats!!



Mrs OC not included…


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Last edited by Old Cruiser; 07-05-2013 at 10:27 AM.
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#5 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 01:32 AM
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Re: How to install PRP Seats in an FJ

Great writeup OC.
Seats look awesome.


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#6 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 02:18 AM
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Re: How to install PRP Seats in an FJ

Very nice! Seats look killer


Does the chick come with the kit?

-Nick


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#7 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 03:46 AM
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Re: How to install PRP Seats in an FJ

Quote:
The Drivers side gets the seat belt tabs attached to the slider frame and the clip into the loom. The other clip that attached to the slider from the loom is also attached. The other 2 remaining clips are also refastened.

Read through the thread, but am still not clear what was done here to address the hall effect sensor and airbag squibs. I'm not refering to the two ohm resistor that you installed, but the seat position sensor which tells the ecu how close the seat is to the steering wheel and whether to deploy one or two airbag squibs.


And for folks reference you can get all the parts for the airbag sensors for ~$50 shipped to your door to eliminate the lights. CTScott on Yaris world sells them, so you can really install whatever seats you'd like. Speedware motorsports also sells sparco seat bases which tend to work with quite a few other seats as well.
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#8 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 04:00 AM
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Re: How to install PRP Seats in an FJ

G'day OC
Awesome write up, and setup..
Great seats...
Cheers
Baz

2011 VB 4x4 AT with CDO
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#9 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 05:41 AM
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Re: How to install PRP Seats in an FJ

Quote:
CMD.krash previously said: View Post
Great writeup OC.
Seats look awesome.

Thanks- Mrs OC thinks they look like oversized baby seats...



Quote:
Xx_Black-out previously said: View Post
Very nice! Seats look killer


Does the chick come with the kit?
Thanks Bro!

Thats where I stated "Mrs OC not included"....

Quote:
FJNewb previously said: View Post
Read through the thread, but am still not clear what was done here to address the hall effect sensor and airbag squibs. I'm not refering to the two ohm resistor that you installed, but the seat position sensor which tells the ecu how close the seat is to the steering wheel and whether to deploy one or two airbag squibs.


And for folks reference you can get all the parts for the airbag sensors for ~$50 shipped to your door to eliminate the lights. CTScott on Yaris world sells them, so you can really install whatever seats you'd like. Speedware motorsports also sells sparco seat bases which tend to work with quite a few other seats as well.
Hall Sensor?!? I got your Hall sensor!

OK to answer your question- the Hall sensor is mounted to the factory slider mechanism and all wiring for the drivers seat is retained. So the sensor knows the location of the seat since that part hasnt been removed/ altered. Its the clip attached to the slider frame on the right.



The Kit from MT included everything without having to search around and most (read all) seat sales companies I contacted (that would be alot- did not either have a clue about the error code/ hall effect or did not have a solution)

Since MT/PRP seat brackets incorporate the factory wiring/ slider- most of the issues are easily resolved. The additional manual override switch for the passenger airbag and removal of the seat belt/ weight sensor were nessesary since those are now absent from the aftermarket seats.

As far as I'm concerned- they found the perfect solution and as stated before (and you know I was going to get a Sparco- their sliders are expensive- PRP- free), these seats are very affordable in relation to others offered (similar to Corbeau in price), offer great flexibility in styles (reclining/ fixed), Have the ability to be custom color matched to what ever combination you can think of (Nick went with digital Camo) and have addressed all the sensor issues that were easiy enough to correct even a Neanderthal like me got it right...


As for the seats themselves- super comfy with a snug fit. Its like having a shock absorber on your backside...

Quote:
bazross previously said: View Post
G'day OC
Awesome write up, and setup..
Great seats...
Cheers
Baz

Thanks Baz!- Blue rocks!


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#10 (permalink) Old 04-16-2012, 06:15 AM
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Re: How to install PRP Seats in an FJ

Quote:
Old Cruiser previously said: View Post
Hall Sensor?!? I got your Hall sensor!

OK to answer your question- the Hall sensor is mounted to the factory slider mechanism and all wiring for the drivers seat is retained. So the sensor knows the location of the seat since that part hasnt been removed/ altered. Its the clip attached to the slider frame on the right.



The Kit from MT included everything without having to search around and most (read all) seat sales companies I contacted (that would be alot- did not either have a clue about the error code/ hall effect or did not have a solution)

Since MT/PRP seat brackets incorporate the factory wiring/ slider- most of the issues are easily resolved. The additional manual override switch for the passenger airbag and removal of the seat belt/ weight sensor were nessesary since those are now absent from the aftermarket seats.

As far as I'm concerned- they found the perfect solution and as stated before (and you know I was going to get a Sparco- their sliders are expensive- PRP- free), these seats are very affordable in relation to others offered (similar to Corbeau in price), offer great flexibility in styles (reclining/ fixed), Have the ability to be custom color matched to what ever combination you can think of (Nick went with digital Camo) and have addressed all the sensor issues that were easiy enough to correct even a Neanderthal like me got it right...
Cool that wasn't clear. Can you do me a favor and test what the resistance/voltage is with the leads to the hall sensor based on the seat position? This is the only issue I still need to address and haven't played around with.

My point above was the MT kit isn't neccessarily needed if you wanted to go with an alternate seat. All MT is providing are the plates and bolts. The base and rails are the easy part (can be sourced by multiple vendors/companies) and the trick is the wiring.

Scott is the one who makes the OCS bypass sensor and is the supplier of the OCS MT sent you. He sells it for ~$50 shipped and provides the resistors in most cases. Only other item that has to be addressed is the hall effect sensor which is just a matter of setting it up to see the correct resistance, which I haven't even played around with yet. Should end up being no more than $60 in the end to make all the electronics and airbags happy (functional) for those who are looking to use alternate seats/bases. If someone wants scotts contact information search yarisworld or PM and I'll give you his email address for the OCS bypass setup.

Edit: BTW nice job on the seat install and writeup!! Looks good.

Last edited by FJNewb; 04-16-2012 at 06:27 AM.
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