Take the PRP seat and place on top of supports and line up bolt holes for the seat to attach to the frame. Using the 8 large 7/16" bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts. Bolt, washer through seat tab, then through support tab, followed by 2nd washer, lock washer and then the nut- Tighten these down- sorry no specs but these are seats- not wanting them to be loose- ever!- I cranked them down!
Tip the seat upside down so the frame faces you- this is why the blanket helps so you can move the seat to better get at the bolts- use the sockets and wrenches for this (sorry don’t remember them all but if you’re like me- you just keep either going bigger or smaller till one fits
Now tighten all the carriage bolts on the top supports and 5/16" bolts on the front support. You should tighten a total of 12 X 3/8" carriage bolts and 4 X 5/16" bolts on the side of the front support. Make sure all bolts are tight- check and double check.
For the passenger side only
- attach the OCS Bypass metal tab (small metal tab that looks like the tab the OCS was attached to on the silver cross member removed earlier). This is done by the 2 small bolts, washers, lock washers and nuts. Tighten these.
At this point you should have a few 3/8" washers left (if both frames are built together) with only 4 long skinny screws remaining with locking nuts and washers- these are for the "bling" tabs that cover the sides like the plastic one. They hide all the hardware.
I used blue 3M painters tape facing backwards behind the "Metal Tech 4x4" to add some additional bling and because I'm an advertising whore...
So at this point the main difference between the driver’s side and the passengers side are the following
More electrical clips to remove on the passenger side- 4 in the corners of the seat and one yellow (SRS), OCS system as well.
Passenger side also has the skinny tube used in the rear support up top. (sits right below the new rear support for the PRP seats
Driverside had the ratchet system with flat faced silver screws, springs and washer extensions (place these in a bag for future use- photos of these assembled are extremely helpful should you ever reattach the factory seats).
Otherwise they are the same.
At this point you assemble the side "bling" plates by threading the long screw through each hole and tightening a locking nut behind. now place another nut on in the opposite direction than the one installed before. Line up the with the holes on the PRP seat tabs (only ones that line up). Adjust the rearward facing nut so that the whole plate is parallel to the side of the seat. When satisfied, add the third nut on the other side of the tab which will lock the assembly to the slider frame.
If you decide to do each seat separately, the passenger side is more difficult do to the electrical but not that hard. I would recommend doing one at a time so the other side can be used for reference for the bolt placement.
You’ll need the OCS Bypass Module and squibs supplied from MT.
As stated in the OCS Bypass instructions, remove the grey plug attached to the OCS and attach the OCS Bypass plug into the OCS.
Following the direction remove the correct wire from the black OCS clip (following removal from the OCS) and replace with the red single line sticking out of the Bypass. Make sure you line up the wire ends as stated in the directions in order for the wire lock to reengage the wires and keep them locked in. Plug black OCS clip back into OCS.
Decide where you want to place the Airbag shut off switch. There is sufficient wire to run up to the dash but I will make a small hole in the bling plate and attach there. Follow given directions on how to attach/ install switch.
Heat up soldering iron (Note- I did this on a small piece of plywood using the now vacant spot on the floor of the FJ). I also used a welder’s glove to isolate the heat from the soldering to the area being worked on. I never soldered before and found that if you lay the tip down alongside the area being worked on, the solder will flow better across the whole area. If you have someone with steady hands – this is great time to have them hold the pieces together while you start the solder. Once the 1st blob gets a hold of the 2 separate pieces, it will hold as you add additional solder. You don’t need a lot- just enough to tie the lines together.