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Pathfinder Recovery Gear (PRG) Snorkel Install Overview

38K views 93 replies 39 participants last post by  chriskrossapplesauce  
#1 · (Edited)
Project Review / Install Overview: PRG Snorkel
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Why I chose to add a snorkel to my rig:
I did it to compliment my rear rear breather (SCUBA) modifications, and to keep the sand out of my pre-filter on the beach (I spend a ton of time oversand in the summer). Oh and to gain some water fording capability along the way. Thanks to ZEUSMOTORWORKS for some advice, a reference and general question answering.

I know this PRG snorkel comes with some philosophical baggage, but I read up, saw quality reviews, weighed the ethics and realized that there was no evidence of an injunction out there. So that's a fair game product at a fair game price in my mind. Besides, all the logos and branding turned me off to the "other leading brand" anyhow. All-in-all, the instructions were concise (though looked strikingly familiar to MetalTech's Snorkel how-to-intall-the-other-leading-brand Youtube video), the materials were super, super solid and only slight adjustments were needed on the template. I'd recommend checking it against your snorkel first, though you never truly know until you do a dry-run mount.

I plan to wait a few weeks to give you my performance impression. In the meantime, here's what I noticed with install. I'm pretty new to mechanic work, but that doesn't hold me back from diving in and trying. If you see bad technique, feel free to correct, but please keep it constructive.

This is how the snorkel came out of the box. i chose to clean up some of the molding with a blade.
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Overview of tools: (In general order of first appearance)
Allen Key (Included in Kit)
Loctite Threadlock
Phillips Head Screwdriver
Flat Head Screwdriver
Utility Knife or Multi Tool
Painter's Tape
1/8" Countersink
3/16" - 7/8" Unibit
1 1/4" - 6 7/8" Auger
105mm (4 1/8") Hole Saw
3/4" X 1 1/4" Grinding stone
Primer & Color Match Paint
Pop Riveter with 3/16" compatible chuck
Various Sockets (Including Drivers, Adaptor and Extensions)
Dorman 10 pcs. 1/2 in. Nylon Push-In Rivet (799-105) (for anything cut or broken on fender lining)

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Not pictured here: Pop riveter, countersink and a standard set of tools. Pro-tip: The need for a pop riveter is not written into the instructions. In fact, they refer to self-tapping screws. However, go with the pop-riveter. It works and works very well.

Overview of kitted parts: (In general order of first appearance)
(8) Snorkel Body Studs
(3) 3/16" Pop Rivets
(8) Washers
(8) Nuts
(3) Small Screws (for A-Pillar snorkel neck mount)
(3) Hose Clamps

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Here are the washers, rivets, bolts and nuts. Not pictured here are the snorkel body studs.

Pre-work: Snorkel body mounts
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Test the studs in the snorkel body before applying Loctite and threading. Make sure the allen key side is facing up.

After removing the screws/clips in fender liner (using a Flathead or clip removal tool), pop the hood and detach air hose with a Phillips Head. Pro-tip: For the Fender Liner, I chose to only remove the the outermost screws/clips, pull out the fender slightly and pull down the liner. It's a bit tighter this way, but it saves a lot of time on the back end.
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Remove the pre-filter by loosening the two anchoring hex bolts.
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Having an extension here is important.

What's remains is some nice naked space used to jimmy the hard(est) to reach fender clips. This is another big time (and effort) saver.
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I then removed the bolts to the OEM air ram with my Phillips head screwdriver.
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Seeya later.

Applying and aligning the template was easy; a few simple marks, and now we can drill. Remember to remove the template before drilling and apply painters tape to keep your cut clean from chips. Relax, get one under your belt and you'll feel great about this.
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I used the countersink to drill pilots, then used a uni-bit up to 5/8" to get me close to 16mm. Pro-tip: I recommend using a new Uni-bit, Hole Saw and Auger)

One more to go... (this is the big boy)
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Go easy, go confidently. Pro-tip: Only apply pressure with the blade already spinning. Bacon grease is a nice, natural lubricant. The Auger should also help prevent the saw from skipping.
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Clean up the holes with a grinding stone and DO NOT FORGET TO PRIME AND PAINT to reduce risk of oxidation.
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All holes drilled.
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Do a dry run mount on the snorkel body after placing painters tape on the A-pillar. Outline the A-Pillar snorkel neck mount on the painters tape
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Drill your pilots, remove the tape, and pop-rivet that sucker on. It's sturrrrrdy.
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Remount the snorkel body and tighten up the 9 remaining holes by placing a washer and nylon threaded bolt on each. Pro-tip: Use a small ratchet.
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Batten down the A-pillar snorkel neck mount that you previously pop riveted with a Phillips Head Screw Driver. Pro-tip: Don't fumble around the side view mirror to get at the securement screws... open the door!
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Go back to the pre-filter, remove the coupling and grind down the notches with the stone bit you used to clean up the holes you just drilled in the quarter panel.
Before:
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After:
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Getting the small end of the snorkel-to-pre-filter bridge on was living hell. It took 4 hands, a blow dryer, a butter knife and pure, unadultered rage. Pro-tip: Find a way to enjoy the rage.
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Almost there now... Just feed the bridge through the fender to the snorkel stub. Don't forget to thread it through your silver hose clamps! And be sure to bolt down the pre-filter mounts prior to tightening the hose clamps with the Flat Head. You'll need to tighten those after you're comfortable with the fit. This is done with the Flat Head Screw Driver. The Toyota air hose clamps will take a Phillips Head.
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The air ram is the cherry on top. A simple black hose clamp secures this into place. This time, use a Flat Head.
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Lastly, you'll need to get the wheel well snapped, clamped and bolted together again. I needed some fresh air and wide open space for this.
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And here's the final product:
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Hope this helps anyone who's sitting on the fence with PRG.
 
#2 ·
Looks awesome and great write up :cheers:

Get ready for strange people with questions :lol:
 
#4 ·
I was reffering to random people on the street coming up or walking out of a store to find people gathered around pointing at it asking "What is that thing?"



:lol:
 
#6 ·
Thanks for the write-up!

I will definitely have to reference this thread when I finally bit the bullet.
 
#9 ·
I appreciate the feedback. This was my first write-up, so it's encouraging to hear this is useful. I've spent a lot of time doing instructions, product reviews and how-to's in my day job.

I should have done one for the Exp1 bumper, but I was just too excited to get it on and didn't take enough detailed photos. Shame too, their instructions were a bit vague. Hell, I'd like to see a clutch swap just to learn how to do it!
 
#8 ·
Do you have a link to where you purchased the snorkel from. I have a Safari and my buddy is looking for a different brand due to the price.

Great write-up, rigs is looking great. The snorkel really improves the look and feel. People will turn their head due to the look and increased sound. I look and see them looking and ignore them to avoid eye contact since questions will follow.

Off topic, does the Finch Fuel Cat. work for you, great pic of your girl painting your grille badge. I'll put mine to work maybe going with yellow...
 
#10 ·
I agree, I've heard a difference with the TRD exhaust. It's throaty and you can pick up some of the whooshing in the ram as well.

For your buddy, tell him to go here: Home Page. I just emailed Nathan at PRG direct. He was most helpful and when out of his way to get it shipped promptly at a great price.

The Fitch bought me about 1.5 mpg after 2 weeks installed. Negligible on the economy (I drive a 6MT), but I do enjoy the Octane boost perks. 87 feels sufficient.

Amanda has a steady hand; she's great for touch up work and helped quite a bit with the snorkel as well. Honestly I'm just happy that she support my habit. :lol:
 
#11 ·
Well documented write up.

I vote for a move to the "How to" Tech subforum.
 
#13 ·
I will x3 ^. Good write up.

I also went with the PRG snorkel. Love it, hands down.

For the rubber bridge from snorkel to intake, I found it was hella easier- after the whole rage scenario- to secure it to the snorkel on install and then wiggle the intake into the rubber hose. Still a PITA but got it after two tries.

Can't go wrong for the cash either. Picked mine up for 160 on sale through PRG FJ Cruiser Snorkel Intake PRG-411-S
 
#16 ·
1 more vote for How To!
 
#17 ·
Boston,

Great write-up, thank you for taking the time to do so.

FWIW, my most recent batch of snorkels will include the 120mm hose clamp required for the newer FJs. I am also working on a revision of the intake hose in an effort to reduce the overall abundance of world wide rage.

This new batch will be in near the end of OCT., along with a few other items that I hope will be well received.

The pop rivets from my older stock snorkels look clean installed, however all the new one will have the inserts. You did great job on the install and write-up. I will continue to improve on our products based on input like this.
 
#18 ·
The pop rivets from my older stock snorkels look clean installed, however all the new one will have the inserts. You did great job on the install and write-up. I will continue to improve on our products based on input like this.
The install and write-up was all my pleasure. I'm encouraged to see the input be put to design tweaks that improve the overall experience. It's been a great product so far. :cheers:
 
#22 ·
I agree, that is a big gap to cover. When we installed UlySi's PRG snorkel last Saturday, we have to push it hard too but the gap is not like yours.

You might be able to make it but i think the 3 white plastic inserts will not hold or will eventually pops out.
 
#25 ·
Not necessarily. Hold the template up to the snorkel itself and make sure it's flexing to the contour of the snorkel. The holes should line up then. Also, I'd start small with the step-bit and work your way up. You may not need all of the clearance recommended in the written instructions. :bigthumb:
 
#28 · (Edited)
No, i started to tighten bolts from the front to back of the snorkel, and used heat gun to bend back rear side of the snorkel that sticked out out too much. And then i i tighten to the full strength. worked like a charm!
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#29 ·
Just notice a few people wondering about the gap on the snorkel. This is not a mistake, there need to be a certain amount of tension on the snorkel. If it just sat right on there it would get dirt between the fender and snorkel and after time start to squeak. We have installed 3 snorkels now, 2 PRG and 1 Safari snorkels and we have an Iron Man snorkel sale pending. I can tell you with certainty all 3 had the same gap and had to be tightened a little at a time. This is not something I knew prior to selling snorkels.

Also note, snorkels are injection molded. They are not stamped, the molds do not misshape or wear. Tim T can attest to this since he owns the biggest injection mold company in TX.

On a side note, you gotta be brave to start drilling holes in your FJ. The first one I did for John made me sick to my stomache until we were done. The next one was no better, and you guys that are cutting your pocket flares for the install......you got em made of brass.

We have two snorkels for the 4th gen 4 runner. We have had them for a year and I have been too scared to drill and cut the flare to test them.

We are going to run a special on the Snorkels for summit. They will be $155 with free shipping on our site only. Pathfinder Outdoors
This is limited to the first 15 sold between now and summit.

We will have several items in the raffle at the summit, winch, snorkel, winch line, streamlight so if you are not in a position to spend 155 bucks, be sure to buy a raffle ticket ir two.

See you at the summit. We will be staying in the Ouray KOA for the last 3 days and at the Telluride mountain village the 12-17. Feel free to stop by and chat.
 
#31 · (Edited)
Mine's still going strong and still doubling as a "pusher" at times LOL...

My buddy with his garage queen Raptor cringes every time I show him new "pin stripes". First time I told him I'd gotten some "new stripes" he was all excited thinking I'd had something painted on vs "engraved". :lol: Figure if the snorkel is stout enough to push by occasional brush/small trees, it should last a long time. Colors also holding in the Texas sun.
 
#32 ·
okay, 155, time to order...
 
#33 ·
DONE!! Now to start the deep breathing exercises leading up to when I will have to cut the big hole and drill all those little holes ...

Any word on how well these will mate up with a CAI? Any preferences to which one to get? I'm leaning towards the TRD version .. I have an early 2007 version FJ.
 
#35 ·
Thanks Zeus -- now off to purchase the CAI. I've poked around and TRDParts4U seems to have the best price. Does anyone have a different/better/less expensive option? I'd prefer my money to go to a forum supporter if possible, but finances are certainly a concern. :boohoo:

TIA for any help provided ...
 
#37 ·
Does anyone know the sizes of the screws that are used for the bracket that goes into the a-pillar and also the snorkel? mine are already showing rust after only a couple months of being installed..
 
#38 ·
the screws are item number 5 on the inventory page. The Screws are plated and should not rust, perhaps there is an issue with the plating on your screws. Please email me if you have any further questions.