Complete skid plates comparison

**TCao** · 11-20-2006, 07:18 PM

For the latest comparison, please click here. This thread is now used for follow up comments and discussion of skid plates for the FJ Cruisers.

silvertoy · 11-21-2006, 05:41 AM

Wow, thanks for taking the time to do this, I was thinking of doing something similar, but I'm glad you went ahead and did it first, the pics you have are great. Mods, sticky this one! We need to keep this fella updated because there are changes happening very quickly now it seems in the area of skid plates.

Edit, the MAF should also mention that the tubular cross braces must be removed to install.

***Landrover*** · 11-21-2006, 05:44 AM

Nice job TCao! Added to sticky and your rep

Briareos · 11-21-2006, 09:16 AM

Great Job!

Another thing to consider - Is front skid compatible for those with Donahoe suspension (swaybar relocated forward).

Thanks,
Shawn

tisilverFJ · 11-22-2006, 12:02 AM

Quote:

Briareos previously said:

Great Job!

Another thing to consider - Is front skid compatible for those with Donahoe suspension (swaybar relocated forward).

Thanks,
Shawn

I know first hand that both All Phase Offroads and Man-a-fres are compatible.

All Phase Offroad(On my FJ)

Man-a-fre

FJ #8 · 11-22-2006, 12:08 AM

Demello is working on one also

**Chatsworth 818 FJ** · 11-22-2006, 12:09 AM

The bolts not being recessed, just dont seem right cant they be sheered off?

philipl · 11-22-2006, 06:58 AM

Don't forget the Toyota and the RAM

**TCao** · 11-22-2006, 12:30 PM

Quote:

philipl previously said:

Don't forget the Toyota and the RAM

Thanks. Forgot completely about the factory skid. Any info on the Ram Off road wrt construction, mods required to install?

BMThiker · 11-27-2006, 08:50 AM

I have the All Pro and the plate comes unpainted. I don't have a good pic of it yet but will post when I do. It went on using 6 of the 8 bolts that came out of the stock plates. Very easy to install and all of the bolt heads are recessed.

Use the bubble and plastic wrap that it was shipped with to pad the ground beneath the engine area. Raise the front edge and line the tabs up with the slots in the frame. Insert the two front bolts, twist a few threads in and leave them loose. Using your bottle jack and a piece of scrap wood, jack up the back edge of the plate to the appropriate height to insert the last four bolts. Leave all bolts loose so you can adjust the skid's placement by hand. Go back to the front of the plate and push on it (or tap with a hammer) so the front tabs seat into the slots tighter. Then tighten all bolts firmly. After removing the old plate, the new plate should go on in about 10-15 minutes. It took me longer to uninstall the old plates and clean all the dried muck and leaves out. I'd suggest goggles for that task.