Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum banner

Rear Locker Modification

47K views 61 replies 30 participants last post by  Smalldog  
#1 · (Edited)
I kinda new to this board and I was a little surprised to see that I was the only one that had modified the rear locker on an FJC. When I got it that was the first thing I sought out to do. I did some research, here and other boards and it all seemed like it should be similar. After I got it, board members wanted to see the dash lights to prove it so I posted some pictures of the dash. I was asked to do a wright up of what I did so here goes. I'll add some pictures later when I take it back apart.

You can get to the 4WD control module without taking the kick panel off but its a little easer to do with it out of the way.

First you remove the driver door sill, it just pops up. Pull and wiggle smoothly and slow so you don't break any tabs.

Then move to the foot rest on the floor by the kick panel. Same way, wiggle smoothly and slowly, pull towards the rear.

Next is a little black screw looking thing that the foot rest was sort of hiding, it just twists off lefty loosie.

Next is the kick panel, just pull it strait back towards the rear.

Now stick your head under there and look way up and near the firewall. You should see a little blue box, a little larger than a deck of cards. Thats the guy.

In that magical harness holds the wire that gives you the locker anytime you want it. The wire is white with a BLUE stripe. There is a green wire on one side and another white wire with a BLACK stripe on the other side of it. Be careful and cut once and look many times to make sure its the white wire with a BLUE stripe. I cut about 1 1/2 to 2 inches down from the connector. I used one of those splice type connectors so I wouldn't have to squeeze my ham hands up in there with a striper tool. The wire size is 18-22 gauge if your going to use the splice type connector. 6 inches of extra wire should be fine for the job. You'll want to connect it to the white wire with the BLUE stripe coming out of the Blue box and then ground it. You can ground it to the 10mm screw that holds the blue box up there. Then take the other open section of wire and fold it over and stick it back in the wiring loom or you can just tape it up, what ever you feel comfortable with.

I'll pull it back apart this weekend and take some pictures so everyone can get a better idea.

The locker will engage any time you want it to as long as your 3 MPH or less. Once engaged you can go as fast as you like and it will disengage at any speed. Wile engaged it also disables ABS, VCS and Traction Control. Great for those guys that like to do donuts or get the rear end out in the corners.

Have fun,
Will

Pic 1- A-trac+locker
Pic 2- Locker on with A-trac+locker mod in 2WD
Pic 3- Locker on with A-track+locker mod switched off in 2WD
Pic 4- A-trac+locker mod switch
Pic 5- Locker mod

The reason for the A-trac+locker mod switch is so I can have or not have traction control in 2WD.
The blue box is the 4WD control module. Cut the White wire with the BLUE stripe and ground it from the blue box.
 

Attachments

#2 ·
I kinda new to this board and I was a little surprised to see that I was the only one that had modified the rear locker on an FJC. When I got it that was the first thing I sought out to do. I did some research, here and other boards and it all seemed like it should be similar. After I got it, board members wanted to see the dash lights to prove it so I posted some pictures of the dash. I was asked to do a wright up of what I did so here goes. I'll add some pictures later when I take it back apart.

First you remove the driver door sill, it just pops up. Pull and wiggle smoothly and slow so you don't break any tabs.

Then move to the foot rest on the floor by the kick panel. Same way, wiggle smoothly and slowly, pull towards the rear.

Next is a little black screw looking thing that the foot rest was sort of hiding, it just twists off lefty loosie.

Next is the kick panel, just pull it strait back towards the rear.

Now stick your head under there and look way up and near the firewall. You should see a little blue box, a little larger than a deck of cards. Thats the guy.

In that magical harness holds the wire that gives you the locker anytime you want it. The wire is white with a BLUE stripe. There is a green wire on one side and another white wire with a BLACK stripe on the other side of it. Be careful and cut once and look many times to make sure its the white wire with a BLUE stripe. I cut about 1 1/2 to 2 inches down from the connector. I used one of those splice type connectors so I wouldn't have to squeeze my ham hands up in there with a striper tool. The wire size is 18-22 gauge if your going to use the splice type connector. 6 inches of extra wire should be fine for the job. You'll want to connect it to the white wire with the BLUE stripe coming out of the Blue box and then ground it. I grounded mine to the 10mm screw that holds the blue box up there. Then take the other open section of wire and fold it over and stick it back in the wiring loom or you can just tape it up, what ever you feel comfortable with.

I'll pull it back apart this weekend and take some pictures so everyone can get a better idea.

The locker will engage any time you want it to as long as your 3 MPH or less. Once engaged you can go as fast as you like and it will disengage at any speed. Wile engaged it also disables ABS, VCS and Traction Control. Great for those guys that like to do donuts or get the rear end out in the corners.

Have fun,
Will

very interesting...
 
#4 · (Edited)
the only problem I see is that with the ahack you are sending a 12 volt signal to the abs computer at all times, therefor with the rear locked the abs and vhs will not turn off. so if you want to use rear locker, with out abs or ahack, you will have to disconnect the ahack. I put spade connector in my ahack so I could just hook it back stock, I would suggest this to anyone doing the hack, and here is where it will come in handy, you could disconnect the fitting and all traction contriol drops out. I should write another thread with all the options.
 
#5 · (Edited)
just did a tech call
we are going to see if
1 it affects the ahack. it would not be good to have it permenently drop out the ATRAC system
2, if there is a easier place to do it where you could set up to use either the ahack mod or the 2locker mod, without one affecting the other.
 
#6 ·
just did a tech call
we are going to see if
1 it affects the ahack. it would not be good to have it permenently drop out the ATRAC system
2, if there is a easier place to do it where you could set up to use either the ahack mod or the 2wdlocker mod, without one affecting the other.
Thank you very much!
 
#7 · (Edited)
I haven't done the atrack+locker mod and when I was playing with it, if I had atrack on and switched the locker on, it turned off the atrack. I was hoping that with the locker mod the atrack would stay on as well. but it didn't. Guess I'll work on that on now. I'll know in a few if they'll both work with the locker mod.

P.S. The A-track still works with locker mod in 4-low with the locker mod. I'm working on the A-track+locker mod with the locker mod now.
 
#11 · (Edited)
Ok I did it and it does work, I even took it down the road to test it. But when the a-track+locker mod is done the locker still works in 2WD but ABS, VSC and Traction Control are enabled. So I rigged it to where I can switch back and forth with a simple wire change.
Yea I'm happy.

I'll probably do a switch inside so I can switch back and forth. If you don't care about a locked dif. with traction control do both mods. If you like having a locked dif. in 2WD and being able to do cool burn outs or donuts or some crazy Dukes of Hazzard stuff make it switchable. Done.

I'm Digging the FJ Cruiser
 
#14 ·
Ok locker mod on, I did the A-Track+locker mod. Tried to go up a hill with locker ON and 4LO. Wheels spun and wouldn't go up. Turned on A-track with locker, got the vibes and it went up. They do work together but if you want the unbridled 2WD locker without traction control make it to where you can switch it back and forth. I'm gona rig a switch inside for that. The traction with it all working is insane. But the fun with the locker in 2WD without the traction control in safe environment is a blast.
Later, Will
 
#15 ·
If you put a single pole single throw switch inline with the 2locker hack then you could turn it off and on. That way it would not affect the Ahack, that said, if you put a 3 way switch on the wires of the ahack, you would acheive the same thing. so for 2 switches, you would be able to use ahack, and 2locker different times. I could draw a schematic if anyone is interested.
 
#17 · (Edited)
Just got rear link skid plate 3/16 and rear locker/atrac mod done works perfect the traction is unbelievable, this vehicle was unstoppable before, now I don't know what to throw at it. Sooo excited all I need now are some skids for underneith and rock rails from allpro.

Sunfusion
33" bfg allterrain no lift (no rubbing full lock and articulated)
16" rockcrawler rims steelys
body chop mod
rearlink skid
reardiff/atrac mod
this is the way Toyota should have produced this vehicle but they didn't so I did.:roller: :roller: :jawdrop:
 
#20 · (Edited)
I didn't get a chance to take it back apart for pictures this weekend, but its coming soon. I'm also going to put in a switch that looks nearly factory to have rear locker with or without traction control. I have everything, I just need to get on it.

Little update, I have everything installed and working great. I'll post pictures up this weekend and wright up some details.
 
#22 · (Edited)
For the switch I just got a two way three post switch and connected the A-trac+locker hack to it. The center post of the switch is connected to the blue wire with the yellow stripe coming out of the connector. The other 2 wires connect to the switchable posts. Sorry I couldn't get a better picture of the switch. I'll try and get better pictures in the daylight of the actual locker mod.

It looks like I'm going to be sealing up the A-track+locker mod back to stock under the hood and doing it under the dash. Much better idea, out of the weather.

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forums/4x4-off-road-tech/16349-re-examining-trac-rr-diff-lock-hack.html
 

Attachments

#28 ·
I just did this mod and it works great. The locker only activates if you are going under 3mph but then you can speed up and it will stay locked in any gear at any speed. As far as disengaging ... I haven't really tested that. The times that I disengaged it - I was going fairly slow, but I'm not sure of the actual speed, so I'm not sure if that was 3mph or less or not. I'll definitely report if I find any problems or disadvantages to this, but so far it seems flawless. I haven't done the A-Trac hack yet because I'm kinda try to wait and see if Toyota will offer a solution - if they don't I'll do the hack. I'm not sure how patient I'll be able to be!
Hope this helps.
Shannon
 
#30 ·
I bought an SE where the ATRAC and LOCKER work at the same time in LL( it is full time 4wheel drive) How can I get it to work in High?
 
#31 ·
hay mods can we get this one as sticky
so it is a little easyer to find thanks.
 
#32 ·
Just did this to night and it works great. can't wait to put it to use this weekend. :D
 
#33 ·
Guys, I would like to get rid of the VSC. This locker hack interests me for donuts etc. But I do wonder if it is potentially unsafe if the button is pushed at the wrong time. I have done it accidentally from time to time, or forgot to turn it off sometimes.

To get the rear end out on dirt roads, is the locker hack the best way to do it, or do you think just a switch for the VSC would be safer?
 
#34 ·
I like the locker hack, It will drop the VSC and lock you up making it easier to get loose. I have had no problems other then now my ABS isn't turning off when I turn it on. If you leave it on on accident you will now for sure so you can turn it off as soon as you feel it. This happened to me once when the car wash guy turned it on. I drove 8 feet and felt it and then turned it off right away with no problems.