4x4 / Off-Road TechThis section contains all discussion related to taking the FJ Cruiser in Off-Road situations, 4x4 applications and any armor modifications.
I kinda new to this board and I was a little surprised to see that I was the only one that had modified the rear locker on an FJC. When I got it that was the first thing I sought out to do. I did some research, here and other boards and it all seemed like it should be similar. After I got it, board members wanted to see the dash lights to prove it so I posted some pictures of the dash. I was asked to do a wright up of what I did so here goes. I'll add some pictures later when I take it back apart.
You can get to the 4WD control module without taking the kick panel off but its a little easer to do with it out of the way.
First you remove the driver door sill, it just pops up. Pull and wiggle smoothly and slow so you don't break any tabs.
Then move to the foot rest on the floor by the kick panel. Same way, wiggle smoothly and slowly, pull towards the rear.
Next is a little black screw looking thing that the foot rest was sort of hiding, it just twists off lefty loosie.
Next is the kick panel, just pull it strait back towards the rear.
Now stick your head under there and look way up and near the firewall. You should see a little blue box, a little larger than a deck of cards. Thats the guy.
In that magical harness holds the wire that gives you the locker anytime you want it. The wire is white with a BLUE stripe. There is a green wire on one side and another white wire with a BLACK stripe on the other side of it. Be careful and cut once and look many times to make sure its the white wire with a BLUE stripe. I cut about 1 1/2 to 2 inches down from the connector. I used one of those splice type connectors so I wouldn't have to squeeze my ham hands up in there with a striper tool. The wire size is 18-22 gauge if your going to use the splice type connector. 6 inches of extra wire should be fine for the job. You'll want to connect it to the white wire with the BLUE stripe coming out of the Blue box and then ground it. You can ground it to the 10mm screw that holds the blue box up there. Then take the other open section of wire and fold it over and stick it back in the wiring loom or you can just tape it up, what ever you feel comfortable with.
I'll pull it back apart this weekend and take some pictures so everyone can get a better idea.
The locker will engage any time you want it to as long as your 3 MPH or less. Once engaged you can go as fast as you like and it will disengage at any speed. Wile engaged it also disables ABS, VCS and Traction Control. Great for those guys that like to do donuts or get the rear end out in the corners.
Have fun,
Will
Pic 1- A-trac+locker
Pic 2- Locker on with A-trac+locker mod in 2WD
Pic 3- Locker on with A-track+locker mod switched off in 2WD
Pic 4- A-trac+locker mod switch
Pic 5- Locker mod
The reason for the A-trac+locker mod switch is so I can have or not have traction control in 2WD.
The blue box is the 4WD control module. Cut the White wire with the BLUE stripe and ground it from the blue box.
Last edited by Regreb : 12-09-2006 at 07:22 PM.
Reason: Pictures added
I kinda new to this board and I was a little surprised to see that I was the only one that had modified the rear locker on an FJC. When I got it that was the first thing I sought out to do. I did some research, here and other boards and it all seemed like it should be similar. After I got it, board members wanted to see the dash lights to prove it so I posted some pictures of the dash. I was asked to do a wright up of what I did so here goes. I'll add some pictures later when I take it back apart.
First you remove the driver door sill, it just pops up. Pull and wiggle smoothly and slow so you don't break any tabs.
Then move to the foot rest on the floor by the kick panel. Same way, wiggle smoothly and slowly, pull towards the rear.
Next is a little black screw looking thing that the foot rest was sort of hiding, it just twists off lefty loosie.
Next is the kick panel, just pull it strait back towards the rear.
Now stick your head under there and look way up and near the firewall. You should see a little blue box, a little larger than a deck of cards. Thats the guy.
In that magical harness holds the wire that gives you the locker anytime you want it. The wire is white with a BLUE stripe. There is a green wire on one side and another white wire with a BLACK stripe on the other side of it. Be careful and cut once and look many times to make sure its the white wire with a BLUE stripe. I cut about 1 1/2 to 2 inches down from the connector. I used one of those splice type connectors so I wouldn't have to squeeze my ham hands up in there with a striper tool. The wire size is 18-22 gauge if your going to use the splice type connector. 6 inches of extra wire should be fine for the job. You'll want to connect it to the white wire with the BLUE stripe coming out of the Blue box and then ground it. I grounded mine to the 10mm screw that holds the blue box up there. Then take the other open section of wire and fold it over and stick it back in the wiring loom or you can just tape it up, what ever you feel comfortable with.
I'll pull it back apart this weekend and take some pictures so everyone can get a better idea.
The locker will engage any time you want it to as long as your 3 MPH or less. Once engaged you can go as fast as you like and it will disengage at any speed. Wile engaged it also disables ABS, VCS and Traction Control. Great for those guys that like to do donuts or get the rear end out in the corners.
Very Interesting. I wonder if this little rear locker trick works with the ATRAC/Locker Hack?
Where are all the gurus on this one? What do you think? Can you do both of the hacks?
Thanks!
the only problem I see is that with the ahack you are sending a 12 volt signal to the abs computer at all times, therefor with the rear locked the abs and vhs will not turn off. so if you want to use rear locker, with out abs or ahack, you will have to disconnect the ahack. I put spade connector in my ahack so I could just hook it back stock, I would suggest this to anyone doing the hack, and here is where it will come in handy, you could disconnect the fitting and all traction contriol drops out. I should write another thread with all the options.
just did a tech call
we are going to see if
1 it affects the ahack. it would not be good to have it permenently drop out the ATRAC system
2, if there is a easier place to do it where you could set up to use either the ahack mod or the 2locker mod, without one affecting the other.
just did a tech call
we are going to see if
1 it affects the ahack. it would not be good to have it permenently drop out the ATRAC system
2, if there is a easier place to do it where you could set up to use either the ahack mod or the 2wdlocker mod, without one affecting the other.
I haven't done the atrack+locker mod and when I was playing with it, if I had atrack on and switched the locker on, it turned off the atrack. I was hoping that with the locker mod the atrack would stay on as well. but it didn't. Guess I'll work on that on now. I'll know in a few if they'll both work with the locker mod.
P.S. The A-track still works with locker mod in 4-low with the locker mod. I'm working on the A-track+locker mod with the locker mod now.
just did a tech call
we are going to see if
1 it affects the ahack. it would not be good to have it permenently drop out the ATRAC system
2, if there is a easier place to do it where you could set up to use either the ahack mod or the 2locker mod, without one affecting the other.
Looks like the perfect place to wire in a switch to return either system to 'stock' if they do conflict. Shouldn't be too bad to wire up a switch down by the atrac button for this purpose. I'm watching this one. Just more options. I was skeptic about the A-trac + Locker hack, but if the TRD SE can do it, then I'm sure it's safe for us as well. This newest twist would just put more tools in the toolbox.
__________________ 1 Bored Clerk
Inchworm Gear E-Locker Guard
It would be great if I had a clue, but let's face it, that's just not gonna happen.
Looks like the perfect place to wire in a switch to return either system to 'stock' if they do conflict. Shouldn't be too bad to wire up a switch down by the atrac button for this purpose. I'm watching this one. Just more options. I was skeptic about the A-trac + Locker hack, but if the TRD SE can do it, then I'm sure it's safe for us as well. This newest twist would just put more tools in the toolbox.
Rear Locker Modification
Linear Mode
