Re-Examining the A-TRAC + RR DIFF LOCK Hack... - Page 2

silvertoy · 12-07-2006, 12:02 PM

I have no trailer wiring and I have an MT, once you photo document, I'll take a look and see if it works for me.
Thanks
-Owen

SwissArmySuv · 12-09-2006, 10:55 AM

Well I tried the "better way" ...

Really did not work for me. Could not get a "jumper" to fit inside the
plug, etc., etc.

Note:
If I was not already pulling off the kick panel for another project,
I would recommend just going with the engine compartment tap.

But, since I was there, hey it's the same "blue wire with a yellow stripe",
so I might as well do it here instead of in the engine compartment.

Pulled off the kick panels, etc. and located LA2. This is the "female" side.

This is the "male" side.

Could not get an "internal" jumper to fit, so made an "external" jumper.
(12 or 14 ga household wire - copper's - copper - what the heck)

Plugged it into the "external" side of the "female" plug (#11 and #4)
and cut the blue wire with yellow stripe (#11) on the "female" side of the
plug.

Reconnected and took a look.

All is working ..... onto the next project.

CORRECTION !!!!!!

In case anyone was going this route:

Apologies ..... after doing a "field" test, jumping #4 to #11
is wrong! Dash lit up, things changed when I hit the brakes, etc.
I have a AT with hitch harness and #4 sent strange signals
when I went out on the road.

Correction as follows (and this was tested before this correction)

Do not jumper #4 to #11 as previously mentioned, instead:

Take the #11 lead (blue with yellow stripe) on the "female" side
as mentioned before, but splice on a longer wire and just run it
into a "keyed" terminal on the fuse block. All works perfectly now.
The wire which needs to be extended to the terminal block is
the portion still attached to the "female" LA2.

(The new lead added for the hack is the blue wire, upper left,
second terminal in)

Regreb · 12-09-2006, 08:41 PM

I think I'm going to seal mine up under the hood. (back to stock) and do it this way. Much better.

FJWALL · 12-09-2006, 09:16 PM

swiss army i like this but i have no clue how this works can you step by step it. I'm electrical illiterate

**Corey** · 12-09-2006, 09:27 PM

Me too.
It seems easier to me to do it under the hood like in the Alex method.

SwissArmySuv · 12-09-2006, 11:13 PM

Do the Alex method!

I had everything ready to go on the Alex method, but I had pulled
off the kick panels to start my mirror heater project so I thought
what the heck, do it here ....

to do this method, you need to:
1) pull of the foot resting pad
2) undo a screw thing in the side kick panel
3) pull the sill molding
4) pull the kick panel molding
5) pull the LA2 connector
6) do the connections

the only benefit I see is that you keep your tap
joints inside the vehicle vs. under the hood like the Alex method.
that part I like .... put if all I was doing was the "hack", no brainer,
Alex method.

if any one wants full details on "in the cab" method let me know
and I will post more details.

Tranman · 12-09-2006, 11:41 PM

SAS, Kudos to you for finding an alternate method. Yes please repost step by step instructions with accompanying pics and details. You can't dumb it down enough. Trust me. Many of us are electronically DUMB and are afraid to screw things up (pull the wrong wire or plug into the wrong hole), but would like to do the hack.

I know many on this forum would appreciate it including myself. Also come up with a name for your hack so we can officialize it here on the forum. thanks again!

BDFJ · 12-10-2006, 12:32 AM

The problem with this method is you have two people telling two stories. The isolate 4, (or was it 11???) then short 4/11. Then the don't short the 4 to 11 'cause your dash goes whacky, but then cut 11 and then jump it to some un-named open port on the fuse box. And then you see the picture of the fuse box with two jumper wires connected in there and ...

Holy Freaking WHAT?

The under the hood method is looking pretty darn sweet...

scollins · 12-10-2006, 07:19 AM

Quote:

Tranman previously said:

SAS, Kudos to you for finding an alternate method. Yes please repost step by step instructions with accompanying pics and details. You can't dumb it down enough. Trust me. Many of us are electronically DUMB and are afraid to screw things up (pull the wrong wire or plug into the wrong hole), but would like to do the hack.

I know many on this forum would appreciate it including myself. Also come up with a name for your hack so we can officialize it here on the forum. thanks again!

I agree with Tranman ... I like the "in the cab" reversible method and would love some step by step "stupid guy" pics....

Thanks,
Shannon

Albemarle · 12-10-2006, 07:49 AM

It would be great if someone with more knowledge than myself figured out how to insulate pin11 at the connector without having to cut the wire. It would make this truly reversible.

The problem with using pin#4 for 12V may be the same problem I ran into when wiring the backup camera. I powered it from the taillight so I could have it on by simply turning on the lights.
Unfortunately, I discovered that when you press the brake pedal, the tail light filament turns off. So I had a backup camera that worked as long as I wasn't braking. Not too useful.