Re-Examining the A-TRAC + RR DIFF LOCK Hack...

[SwissArmySuv]

BDFJ previously said:

The problem with this method is you have two people telling two stories. The isolate 4, (or was it 11???) then short 4/11. Then the don't short the 4 to 11 'cause your dash goes whacky, but then cut 11 and then jump it to some un-named open port on the fuse box. And then you see the picture of the fuse box with two jumper wires connected in there and ...

Holy Freaking WHAT?

The under the hood method is looking pretty darn sweet...

The blue jumper was for the a-trac and the red jumper you see is an
aux. 12V outlet I installed, it has nothing to do with the hack.

Also, I put a meter on all open ports on the fuse panel to find out which
ports are live when the key is off and which ports are only live when
the key is on. (in the picture I identified "key off" live power terminals
as black and "key-on" live terminals as blue)

The red line goes to a "key off" live port because a lot of times I just
leave the cell phone in my truck at night to charge and the factory
12v outlet is only live when the key is on.

The blue line goes to a "keyed" port because I do not want the power
on when I am not driving.

I am not saying anyone is wrong here and I did not mean to hi-jack the
thread. All I know is that terminal #4 was not a good terminal to get 100%
power to the hack because of intermittent power due to the brakes (at least
on my truck). So I just ran a line to the fuse holder where I knew I could
trust the power to be correct.

Basically what I ended up doing was the "Alex" hack, but I did it internal
to the vehicle vs. under the hood.

The idea of "not cutting lines" is a good one. But I could not get it to
work as was originally described. I just meant to identify the problem I had
and then I posted an option that does work since I already had this area
"opened up".

[BDFJ]

We all appreciate you experimenting on our behalf and I wasn't dissing you at all. Just that this particular version of this mod has become confusing now.

[silvertoy]

I wonder if you could remove the blue/yellow wire from the connector vs. cutting it. It would keep the functionality then just wire up the 12V? How hard are those pins to remove from the connector. In case you're wondering why, well itwould give you the ability to return it to stock, 100% later on without ever having cut a wire.

[ruebarb]

silvertoy previously said:

I wonder if you could remove the blue/yellow wire from the connector vs. cutting it. It would keep the functionality then just wire up the 12V? How hard are those pins to remove from the connector. In case you're wondering why, well itwould give you the ability to return it to stock, 100% later on without ever having cut a wire.

You read my mine, I agree this would be simple and 100% reversible.

[superstar555]

Ahem...

Re-Examining the A-TRAC + RR DIFF LOCK Hack...

You can name it after my dog Fuji.


Don't cut any wires...use a small piece of electrical tape to isolate the pin in the harness coming from the rear diff.

In fact, don't do anything until you hear from me again in this thread. I have a faster/easier way than removing all the interior parts to get a LA2.

I'll post when it's complete.


EDIT: Nevermind. There is no constant +12V in L20 either. Jumper it inside the fusebox and be happy you didn't have to cut a wire.

[sealevel]

I did the jumper 4/11 and nothing else. Locking Diff whenever I want it in any range. Tomorrow the Atrack hack.

great stuff!

[FJORD]

sealevel previously said:

I did the jumper 4/11 and nothing else. Locking Diff whenever I want it in any range. Tomorrow the Atrack hack.

great stuff!

Rear locker engaged in any range? That doesn't sound good to me

[Go4aRyd]

Progress...gota love it! ..and those who make it happen!

[sealevel]

I did the A-Track hack yesterday and now have A-Track & rear locker at the same time in low. This works great. Oh and the rear locker in hi & lo does work and no problems.

I'm loving it. Thanks for all the great tech support. Go FJ's.

Going to Michigan on Christmas day, hoping for snow to try all this out.

[superstar555]

silvertoy previously said:

I wonder if you could remove the blue/yellow wire from the connector vs. cutting it. It would keep the functionality then just wire up the 12V? How hard are those pins to remove from the connector. In case you're wondering why, well itwould give you the ability to return it to stock, 100% later on without ever having cut a wire.

It's possible, but difficult given the position of the connector.

Just jam a SMALL piece of electrical tape in there. I've done mine and two others without a problem.

Also, I'd like to point out that there is very little current flowing in the jumper line to the fuse box, so a small wire is fine.