Re-Examining the A-TRAC + RR DIFF LOCK Hack...

[BDFJ]

So far, it's isolate 11 and then jump 4-11.

[superstar555]

Taz previously said:

That would be great. I've been trying to follow all the relevant threads regarding this. After all the reading, I am more confused than before I started. My kids keep pulling me away from the PC and I have to re-read each thread to see where it all went and I don't usually have time to do it from the beginning.

I always seem to miss the one RELEVANT post that is buried amongst the rubble. Of course that is the one that ties it all together.

As I understand it now, I need to isolate Pin 11 of connector LA2. Then do I run the swtiched 12V source to this pin or another one like number 4?

Exactly.

1) Yes. You are isolating the signal coming from the rear-diff to the ECU. This is where the tape comes in. On Alex's mod, this same wire is actually cut under the hood.

2) Yes. You are providing a constant (switched) +12V signal to the ECU that says "The rear locker is NOT engaged, it's OK to allow ATRAC...". On Alex's mod he has you tap another wire with a T-splice.


In the most basic terms possible, you are BLOCKING the "Locker Engaged" signal from the rear-diff from reaching the ECU by isolating the FEMALE LA2:Pin 11. Applying switched +12v to the MALE side of LA2:Pin 11 takes this one step further by fooling the ECU into thinking that the rear locker is NEVER engaged. (From the ECUs perspective, +12V in this line = Locker is disengaged. 0v on this line = Locker is engaged.)

[superstar555]

BDFJ previously said:

So far, it's isolate 11 and then jump 4-11.

Jumping 4-11 has been found to not be reliable as pin 4 can't be counted on for +12v at all times.

Sadly, I can find no constant +12v anywhere near the rear of the vehicle.

[superstar555]

As requested:

http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...tml#post280978

Feedback appreciated.

[superstar555]

SwissArmySuv previously said:

Take the #11 lead (blue with yellow stripe) on the "female" side
as mentioned before, but splice on a longer wire and just run it
into a "keyed" terminal on the fuse block.

This is backwards. You need +12V on the male side, and to isolate the female side.

Applying +12V to the female side will cause a meltdown when you enable RR DIFF LOCK.

Trust me on this...

Superstar555
Hi, I have an FJ with the stamp on the door jam saying 02/07 as the build date. You state that pre Nov (i'm assuming 06') FJ's need this mod.

WHen I push both buttons in 4L the rear diff light flashes signifying that its not working. Does this mean that I need to do this mod?

Sorry i'm sure you're sick of this thread but I'd appreciate the feedback. If I need to do this I really appreciate your efforts and knowledge.

Thanks

[stringmachine]

when you turned both on and lock was flashing did the atrac stay on? if it did it might take few feet to enguage it. if you have not tried this.

[ISLAND FJ CRUISER]

PRCruiser previously said:

man, if you are a geek in electronics try to figure out how to activate the atrac when the Fj is not equipped with it and rear locker... I bought the button but nothing happens.

Do you have an automatic FJ CRUISER?If you do then,it has a front E-LOCKER in that case A TRACK wouldn't be needed.