The "No Cut" A-TRAC + RR DIFF Hack.

[Kansas Law Dog]

Superstar555 - Does this hack allow RR work in high range?

[Hog Chain]

Superstar555,

Thanks for the post. If Toyota doesn't come through with an update for those of us who made our purchase pre November, I will try this mod. I called Toyota today and ledged my complant but got the same old bull of it can't be done and no plans to rectify the situation. I also called my dealer with same and explained that I didn't find this to be fair to those who jumped in early to give this new vehicle a try at the sticker price plus tax. Since this is my fifth Toyota from them, I told him that I was going to trade it in on a H1 Hummer. Just kidding but left it that way with him.

Thanks again!!!

[scollins]

I read on another post the jumpering 4 to 11 was no longer a good idea because that did not provide a CONSTANT 12v source. Is that correct?

I am guessing that to be true and you are getting around that by adding the inline t-tap connector and connecting it directly to the fuse box. That sounds good, but I am worried after that is done it can never be returned to truly stock. If you remove the t-tap in the future the wire will be broken and if you leave it in place then it will be "evidence".

Did I get this right? I will probably still do the hack in the kick panel instead of under the hood, but I just wanted to be sure I understand everything first.

Thanks alot for your hard work on this.

Shannon

[BDFJ]

Thanks Superstar. You're a....ummmm Superstar!

[superstar555]

Kansas Law Dog previously said:

Superstar555 - Does this hack allow RR work in high range?

Not to my knowledge. I have not yet investigated that particular mod.

[VTFJC]

can anyone summarize the advantages of the "No cut" method vs the cut method?

[superstar555]

scollins previously said:

I read on another post the jumpering 4 to 11 was no longer a good idea because that did not provide a CONSTANT 12v source. Is that correct?

I am guessing that to be true and you are getting around that by adding the inline t-tap connector and connecting it directly to the fuse box. That sounds good, but I am worried after that is done it can never be returned to truly stock. If you remove the t-tap in the future the wire will be broken and if you leave it in place then it will be "evidence".

Did I get this right? I will probably still do the hack in the kick panel instead of under the hood, but I just wanted to be sure I understand everything first.

Thanks alot for your hard work on this.

Shannon

Correct. Pin 4 was left out on purpose due to issues on some FJs.

A good tap will not cut the wire, but will make contact by cutting thru the insulation of wire.

I hate wire taps with a passion, but in a low-amperage, weather-protected situation like this, it's the easiest tool for the job.

[fjNYC2007]

Very Concise! Thanks.

[superstar555]

VTFJC previously said:

can anyone summarize the advantages of the "No cut" method vs the cut method?

With the "cut" method, you are actually cutting a wire in the factory wiring harness, and stripping back a (small) bit of insulation on another via the use of a wire tap. These wires are located under the hood and are exposed to the elements.

The "no cut" method described above cuts no wires, and is done inside the cabin of the vehicle where it is protected from the elements.

They both accomplish the exact same thing.

[AF Chief]

hoorah...this post should be a sticky in the FAQs