SCUBA Driver Transmission, Transfer Case, Rear Differential & E-Locker Breather MOD

[Shadow-Warrior]

That is what I said, it's not threaded like the rear diff, it just pulls off and pushes on...

[SwiCago]

Shadow-Warrior previously said:

That is what I said, it's not threaded like the rear diff, it just pulls off and pushes on...

Shadow, the manual transmission breather is press fitted into the transmission housing. It is NOT attached to a hose like on the Automatics.
The transfer case has a hose, but not the manual transmission breather.

Those of us with manual transmissions would like to know how to remove it w/o dropping the tranny. And would also like to know what should go in its place.

[ruebarb]

Shadow-Warrior previously said:

The tranny should have a small length of hose then the breather attached to the end, you need to take some plyers and squeeze the clamp together, moving it downward, then twist and pull off the breather. Insert a small brass double end hose fitting, slide the clamo back up, then attach a length of hose to the other end securing it with a hose clamp, attach a new breathe on the other end or re-use the stock one that you removed. I hope this helps.

I just spent 30 minutes trying to pull this out, even with pliers, It wouldn't budge a bit, any suggestions?

I thought about cutting it off, but I can't reach below the bracket, short arms I guess.

Thanks

[jkjet]

ruebarb previously said:

I just spent 30 minutes trying to pull this out, even with pliers, It wouldn't budge a bit, any suggestions?

I thought about cutting it off, but I can't reach below the bracket, short arms I guess.

Thanks

It sounds like you are working on the AT transmission breather. I got at it from under the passenger side. I pulled the clamp and removed the hose from the pipe right on top of the tranny. That hose is only about 6" long, just get rid of it all. Then just run a new hose and clamp it to the tube, I used a new worm gear type hose clamp. Lube up the line with some oil and it will go on easier.

[ruebarb]

jkjet previously said:

It sounds like you are working on the AT transmission breather. I got at it from under the passenger side. I pulled the clamp and removed the hose from the pipe right on top of the tranny. That hose is only about 6" long, just get rid of it all. Then just run a new hose and clamp it to the tube, I used a new worm gear type hose clamp. Lube up the line with some oil and it will go on easier.

I made a 2nd try this afternoon, I was able to reach in and remove the hose after unclipping some metal line in the way of my arm. I had to pry the breather out of the hose with a screw driver, their was no way I was going to pull it out, that thing was basically permanent.

I put the original hose back on figuring if I lubed the nozle the original hose would slide on rather easily and it worked. I attached the 1/4" splicer to the other end and my extension, wait a PITA this breather was.

The plastic breather is a POS, but one of the 1/8" breathers I removed is only one way, so I couldn't use it, running the plastic until I find a 2 way metal cap breather.

[stringmachine]

one important thing shadow shared in this thread is if you use the original vents it will still cause vacum in the diffs etc and not eliminate the possibility of sucking water through the seals my 02

[ruebarb]

stringmachine previously said:

one important thing shadow shared in this thread is if you use the original vents it will still cause vacum in the diffs etc and not eliminate the possibility of sucking water through the seals my 02

I'm not clear as to how the type of breather is going to change the thermodynamics. If I use a 2 way breather, basically open breather, either a cone filter style or a cap, the cooling process is still going to create a suction (negative pressure) either way, just as heating will cause a (positive pressure); Am I looking at this wrong? I don't like the exposed cotton filter, they could become saturated with water as they are exposed, then during the cooling allow water from the filter itself to enter, whereas the caps would have to be submerged at the time of cooling to allow water to enter. I ran the rear cone filter into the cabin for this reason, it can't get wet.

Or were you saying that the cone filter has a greater CFM than the cap filter, thus equalizing the negative pressure faster at the time of cooling, which I'd agree. But to assume the negative pressure to be so great that is can not pull air fast enough through the cap breather, that it would create a suction on the hose seals, the hose barbs are in so tight (atleast mine) that if I needed to remove them from the fuel line, I'd have to cut them off, I highly doubt they are going to allow any water to enter.

[DEWFPO]

The OE caps are not free floating. When you hit cold water with a warm/hot diff. it could possibly create a slight vacuum in the diff since it may not let air back in immediately. (but I'm not 100% convinced of this yet). Some folks are concerned that this slight vacuum could cause water to get pulled into the rear diff. via the axle seals. Some say they are not designed to hold back water but I am not convinced of that either since the FJ is supposed to be rated to a 27.5 fording depth. I haven't seen proof positive either way so I am reserving my opinion.

Anyway, that's the argument.

DEWFPO

[fingas74]

ruebarb previously said:

I'm not clear as to how the type of breather is going to change the thermodynamics. If I use a 2 way breather, basically open breather, either a cone filter style or a cap, the cooling process is still going to create a suction (negative pressure) either way, just as heating will cause a (positive pressure); Am I looking at this wrong? I don't like the exposed cotton filter, they could become saturated with water as they are exposed, then during the cooling allow water from the filter itself to enter, whereas the caps would have to be submerged at the time of cooling to allow water to enter. I ran the rear cone filter into the cabin for this reason, it can't get wet.

Or were you saying that the cone filter has a greater CFM than the cap filter, thus equalizing the negative pressure faster at the time of cooling, which I'd agree. But to assume the negative pressure to be so great that is can not pull air fast enough through the cap breather, that it would create a suction on the hose seals, the hose barbs are in so tight (atleast mine) that if I needed to remove them from the fuel line, I'd have to cut them off, I highly doubt they are going to allow any water to enter.

I think the issue is that with the caps when a vacuum is pulled they actually shut off like a check valve to keep things from getting sucked in. They are not perfect so they will allow the pressure to equalize over time but while there is the vacuum there is the potential to suck water in through the seals. Seals don't generally work equally well in both directions, depending on seal type and the ones on the FJ are more for keeping relatively thick oil in not thin water out.

DEWFPO previously said:

The OE caps are not free floating. When you hit cold water with a warm/hot diff. it could possibly create a slight vacuum in the diff since it may not let air back in immediately. (but I'm not 100% convinced of this yet). Some folks are concerned that this slight vacuum could cause water to get pulled into the rear diff. via the axle seals. Some say they are not designed to hold back water but I am not convinced of that either since the FJ is supposed to be rated to a 27.5 fording depth. I haven't seen proof positive either way so I am reserving my opinion.

Anyway, that's the argument.

DEWFPO

All I know is the water entering the differentials is not a new phenomenon. It has been noted as a problem on plenty of well built 4X4s through the years.

[DEWFPO]

It sure has, plenty. But did any with manufacturers fording depths as deep at 27+ inches have the problem? I don't know. I'd like to think the Toyota engineers re-designed the axle seals if they are using the fording depth as a selling point. But I obviously can be wrong.

DEWFPO