A-Trac switch install with pics

[Wolfbak]

Sorry about starting a new thread on this, but the A-Trac hack thread was getting so long and cumbersome. I want to just show the process with this new title.

If anyone needs the background on adding the A-Trac option, please read through the previous thread: 2 cheap and easy A-TRAC hacks

I added the switch and A-Trac is working! Thanks for the help from Ickmann and from Alex for the original post.

Here's the process: 1. Remove the small cover under the parking brake. You can insert a screwdriver under the edge to pop it up - no screws.

2. Take out the rubber cup holder separator in the back of the center console and remove the 2 bolts with a 10mm socket.

3. Pull the top of the center console (around the shifters) straight up with your hands. It is held by clips and pulls up easily. Unscrew the 4wd shifter knob and pull the console top off. Put the shifter knob back on right away because the sharp threads of the shifter easily scratch the plastic panels!

4. Remove the two 10mm bolts on the sides of the console on either side of the (automatic) shifter. They are obvious, but I haven't seen them on a manual transmission model. Pull the console staight back away from the switch panel - no need to remove it.

5. Remove the 10mm bolts at the bottom of the switch panel and pop out the plastic retainers on each side. I didn't have a special tool, but if you push the center of the retainer clip straight in, you can remove the whole retainer.

6. Pull the switch panel out until you see the switches and wiring from behind.

7. At the A-Trac switch position, pull the switch blank out of the front. There will be a wiring plug connected to the back of the blank, but it may or may not be the correct one to connect to the switch. This threw me.

8. Push the A-Trac switch into the hole where the blank was removed and plug in the correct connector. The A-Trac connector has 4 wires running to it. Two of the wires are pink with a green stripe and white with a black stripe. I got confused because the connector in the location where the A-Trac switch goes had a pink wire with a blue stripe and a purple wire. I had a hard time seeing the black stripe on the white wire and the directions I read said to look for a black and white wire.

I can tell you this is easy and it works! I do not plan to try the hack which allows the A-Trac and locking diff to be active at the same time. It seems to be a lot more of a "hack" than simply adding a factory switch, and I'm not sure I understand the benefit at all.

I'll include some thumbnails in this post and then more in the next post.

[Wolfbak]

more thumbnails...

[surfponto]

Wolfbak previously said:

more thumbnails...

OK that rocks!!!
Thanks for the pics !!.
Where did you pick up the switch and how much?

Now has anyone put in the rear power outlet?

This forum rules!!

Bob

2007 FJ Cruiser
Titanium MT6
No UP #1 or UP # 2

[Wolfbak]

surfponto previously said:

OK that rocks!!!
Thanks for the pics !!.
Where did you pick up the switch and how much?

Now has anyone put in the rear power outlet?

This forum rules!!

Bob

2007 FJ Cruiser
Titanium MT6
No UP #1 or UP # 2

There is all you need to know and a lot more already covered to death in this thread: http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...ead.php?t=2169.

Check it out.

[Tranman]

First of all, a Big thanks for the post with instructions and pics to go along with it. No need to apologize about starting a new thread. Thanks for doing it. Also thanks to the guys who did it 1st (Ickmann and & Alex).

Your instructions and pics make me think even I can do it. After reading the detailed printed instructions from toyota, it looked way too complicated. But you've given me confidence again. My switch is on order, even tho I may not need atrac. How can you say no to $68 for atrac. I will give it a shot when the switch arrives. thanks again.

[Wolfbak]

Tranman previously said:

First of all, a Big thanks for the post with instructions and pics to go along with it. No need to apologize about starting a new thread. Thanks for doing it. Also thanks to the guys who did it 1st (Ickmann and & Alex).

Your instructions and pics make me think even I can do it. After reading the detailed printed instructions from toyota, it looked way too complicated. But you've given me confidence again. My switch is on order, even tho I may not need atrac. How can you say no to $68 for atrac. I will give it a shot when the switch arrives. thanks again.

When the time comes, feel free to PM or email me if you get stuck.

[tnegiet]

Well done!

[Kansas Law Dog]

Wolfbak - I have the same concerns you do about the hack of the ATRAC with engaged rear locker. If someone has worked through this scenario of both working at same time, then maybe there is a way:

1. 4x4 low range ATRAC engaged means sensors look for wheel slip and apply brake pulses to transfer traction to non-slipping wheel.
2. Rear locker engaged means both rear wheels turn at same revolutions per minute, no exceptions.

Now you are wheeling up a rock and one of the front wheels comes off the ground (say right front for sake of argument), and at the same time both rear wheels momentarily break traction to push the vehicle forward. What this means is the slowest turning wheel is the left front, because the right front is clawing at air and the rear wheels have slipped as they broke traction.

If I understand things correctly, then ATRAC reacts to brake the slipping wheels (sensors in this case detect 3 wheels slipping) without reducing engine power. Sending braking pulse signals to three wheels cannot be good for a locked different. Also, I assume that the ECU must be reprogrammed to ignore the slippage in the rear wheels when locked.

If I've missed something, I truly would appreciate understanding how someone plans to hack the ECU to make ATRAC work with the rear locker engaged.

[Freewheeling Frank]

Kansas Law Dog previously said:

Wolfbak - I have the same concerns you do about the hack of the ATRAC with engaged rear locker. If someone has worked through this scenario of both working at same time, then maybe there is a way:

1. 4x4 low range ATRAC engaged means sensors look for wheel slip and apply brake pulses to transfer traction to non-slipping wheel.
2. Rear locker engaged means both rear wheels turn at same revolutions per minute, no exceptions.

Now you are wheeling up a rock and one of the front wheels comes off the ground (say right front for sake of argument), and at the same time both rear wheels momentarily break traction to push the vehicle forward. What this means is the slowest turning wheel is the left front, because the right front is clawing at air and the rear wheels have slipped as they broke traction.

If I understand things correctly, then ATRAC reacts to brake the slipping wheels (sensors in this case detect 3 wheels slipping) without reducing engine power. Sending braking pulse signals to three wheels cannot be good for a locked different. Also, I assume that the ECU must be reprogrammed to ignore the slippage in the rear wheels when locked.

If I've missed something, I truly would appreciate understanding how someone plans to hack the ECU to make ATRAC work with the rear locker engaged.

First, i think ATRAC only compare wheel speed of the two wheels on the same axle, ie, two front wheels or two rear wheels. Center diff is locked so equal power is sent to front and rear "axle". Understanding that the front is IFS and therefore has two seperate axles, but I don't think that matter for this discussion.

Second, even if it does compare speed of all 4 wheels. Since the rear is locked, meaning, as stated in your post, rear wheels turn at the same speed without exception, then the rear wheels should receive equal braking.

I don't think the rear wheels will ever receive any braking from ATRAC if the rear locker is engaged and ATRAC is running, but if they do, I think it has to be equal braking.

Anyway, I have tried to get ATRAC and rear locker going at the same time and wasn't successful. I removed the pin Alex H talked about originally, and the FJ reacted as if the rear was locked all the time. I need to check the error code that the FJ is creating, but I haven't been able to do that yet. I took a look at the wiring document that has been posted here (thank you! ) and from what I could tell, the sensor sends current when the rear diff is unlocked, not when it is locked. I am by no means an expert on any of this. But from what I could tell, someone would have to duplicate the signal of the rear diff lock sensor that tells the ECM that the rear locker is NOT engaged, rather than just pulling the sensor wire.

Again, I will say that I am not an expert on any of this. But I am willing to try some stuff. Cuz I think ATRAC up front with a rear locker would kick @ss.

[Kansas Law Dog]

Freewheeling Frank - Thanks for responding. I was thinking the braking would be in pulses and with the rear wheels locks the braking pulse on one side might not be simultaneous with the pulse to the other side, possibly resulting in axle bind. Anyway, someone will have to figure out how to trick the ECU and then we should get a valid test and report. I like your new avatar. Regards, Ken