It would be a REALLY BAD IDEA to run synthetic winch rope over HOT EXHAUST PIPES, and the stock position of the exhaust crossover on the FJC puts it really close to where this is being pictured.
I strongly recommend NOT doing that.
Additionally, there are SIGNIFICANT DIFFERENCES in the forces being applied to the front bumper and the winch fairlead when you do THIS, relative to what goes on with standard (even standard-ly off axis) winching.
If you FIX the far end of the winch cable to an anchor, and you're ROLLING BACK on the uptake of line over the fairlead, you will have created a simple 2-part "fall", block and tackle system. This increases the force being applied by a factor of 2 since it doubles the amount of line take-up per distance travelled. This means that twice the force of the "pull" is being put on the fairlead.
Normal operating conditions do NOT apply massive forces to the fairlead. A straight pull puts almost NO force on the fairlead. Small to moderate angles of pull increase the force on the fairlead in proportion to the sine of the angle (which is a comparatively small amount).
The bumper typically holds the winch near to the plane between the frame rails and serves primarily as a bracket onto which the winch tension can be transmitted to the frame through hardened bolts. This pull scheme instead uses the BUMPER ITSELF as a fulcrum over which a block and tackle is assembled. The fabrication *may* be strong enough to take this in some situations, but if there is anything that will be TOO much for a bumper, it will be something like this! The bumper could conceivably be levered completely off of the vehicle.
Although conditions might arise that NECESSITATE doing something like this as a measure of desperation, I believe that it should be used as a LAST RESORT long after multiple other methods fail.
In fact, this is an EXCELLENT opportunity for using the Hi-Lift jack as a winch/come-along. I have done this on multiple occassions with 100% success, as have many other people.
I have posted crude illustrations of how to do this on other threads in the past, and I'll add them here for your consideration:
The principle is to use chain and tow straps to "jack" yourself toward a fixed anchorpoint 4 feet at a time. In between 4' pulls, there is a need to support the rig against sliding back down while the system is tightened up and the jack is re-set. Something else must support the weight of the vehicle at this time if the situation is unstable. I usually set up a second anchor chain, but in this case, running the winch cable out from under the vehicle is a feasible alternative FOR HOLDING, though I'd counsel against using it for pulling, due to the reasons mentioned above.
Another alternative, if you're in a REALLY BAD SITUATION is to deflate a rear tire completely (consider unseating a bead, even) and then using the flat tire as a winch reel to wrap chain or tow line around, and run to a fixed anchor point. Then, with REAR DIFFERENTIAL LOCKED, you can "winch out" by driving into reverse.