EDIT: The recovery links I posted WILL NOT fit the FJ's and the Iconic_ mounts are SOLD OUT. See below...
Does anybody know if these will fit the rear of the FJ? I've got the matching front set and like them. They're substantially stronger (looking) than the stock points. If anybody has a pair and want's to chime in that'd be awesome.
I know I can get a second factory eye for a rear recovery point, but I've never really trusted them for anything other than strapping the truck down. Not looking to argue about strength of the eyes here; you do you and I'll do me.
Some of you may know about the one-off run of custom rear recovery points that @Iconic_ is producing. Last we knew they were several weeks out still waiting for space on the laser cutter, so there's still time to get in on one of the unclaimed sets. Iconic will PM you for your PayPal once they've been cut and bent. As far as I know once these are gone there won't be anymore made, so get them while they last!
Fit: 2007-14 FJ Cruisers & 4th Gen 4Runners (may fit other vehicles)
Cost: $30 for one, $55 for a pair (two recovery points)
Current design, or very similar...
In the meantime, PM myself or Iconic or post here to be added to the list. If you're not on the list, we haven't seen your post or PM. Here is the current list (as of 1300 EST on 03/17/2017)...
I'm traveling and away from the FJ for a few days or else I'd just measure it.
I saw someone use their hitch pin like that once, bent the pin and he couldn't get it out, had to cut it. Those pins don't have a high resistance to bending, but when you've got a receiver in their shear strength is extremely high. Would use the pin in an emergency, but only as a last resort.
I use an adapter for a clevis in the hitch. It's solid steel and will probably tear out the cross member before it shears the cross pin. I don't leave it in for fear it will freeze or rust stuck or even get stolen, but I keep in in the FJ in winter or off-roading.
Yes they do fit. I have these exact points on my wife's Fortuner - I bought these because the stock loop failed spectacularly during a recovery. I measured the FJ, and the bolt spacing is the same, although the exhaust will need to exit the side (e.g. the TRD exhaust) because in the stock location, it covers the bolt holes on the right hand side.
They've been on the Fortuner for a good 3 years and they've held up really well.
I'm strongly considering buying another set for the FJ.
That link doesn't seem to be working and I'm pretty interested in those. I've been looking for an alternative to the rear recovery points. Mine didn't come with them and $80 is pretty pricey for just one OEM loop.
Just measured my stock tow hook and frame (08 frame)
Oem tow hook:
Bolts are m12x1.25x35mm
Bolt holes in tow hook are 12.7mm-13mm
Bolt hole spacing on bracket is 35mm center to center (48mm outer edge of bolt hole to outer edge of bole hole, corresponds to 45mm measurement in above drawing)
3rd bolt hole in frame (not used with factory tow hook)
thread is m8x1.25
spacing is ~120mm center to center of 2nd bolt hole, ~155mm to 1st bolt hole (closest to bumper)
Hope the drawing from roadrunner is for a different model, or they're not going to bolt right up.
While removing my tow hook to measure, I noticed bent and rotting bolts. Also broke the welds on one of the captured nuts and had to cut the bolt, which is no big deal, since I've fixed these before. I'm just glad I noticed this now and not have it fail on the trail. I'll just use my hitch shackle until I fix it.
Sorry for going off topic
So if you drive your FJ in harsh environments and use your tow hook, check your bolts, they may fail before the hook if they look like mine
This thread has got me thinking about making my own and here's what I came up with. Uses .25" material in drawing, but would plan on using .375" (3/8), software just wouldn't allow bigger. Think that would be enough? Next common size is 1/2", gets pricey and harder to find a place to get it bent.
They can be found cheaper at other places, but if I was to buy one I prefer supporting our vendors when I can, you should too! Plus MT will probably guarantee them, can't say I'd trust my truck and/or safety to a china brand cheapo knock-off.
.
Yes mine is similar to this one just painted black. It was part of a kit with tow strap pulley, extra clevis, gloves, tree strap. I only added a snatch strap.
I need to find time to cut some out. In the next few days I'll get a design. Even before this thread I was planning on making some for the FJC and my brother's 4Runner. That's like $5 in steel and $3 in hardware. I also have access to FEA software so I can make sure they are strong enough. PM me if interested.
This thread is relevant to my interests. I'll soon be installing a hitch but don't like that it'll reduce the rear departure angle but I digress. . .
What I want to fab. and install is recovery point on each corner that is also accessible to my Hydra Jack, or at least designed for the loading that comes with pulling and lifting, while still being low profile.
I came up with a few designs and sent them to Iconic. He's got better software than I do and ability to run an FEA (finite element analysis), and has access to cnc cutting table and large enough brake. Shouldn't be a problem to get something going
Also, the 3rd bolt hole on the bottom of the frame, might not be practical due to potential irregularities in bolt hole placement between frames. On my frame, the 3 holes don't appear to be aligned perfectly, rear one seems offset slightly, not to mention the captured nuts aren't perfectly centered in the frame holes. I will find out with my test plate.
As far as extending the bracket with an "s" shape, it's a possibility, but it would have to be on the inside of the frame (body mount is on the outside there), would have to relocate trailer wiring, and would have to put a nut inside that part of the frame
Well here is what I was able to come up with. Pretty simple. I'm going to get 4 made this week for my brother and I to test (pulling different directions and trying to bend them) As far as strength goes, it's .5" steel so it will be every bit as strong as the Aussie ones posted above. I looked it up and the steel they use is equivelant to regular A36 for us AISI folks. I decided not to utilize the third M8 bolt based on the grounds that it will be more difficult to line up, slightly more costly, and the 2x M12-1.25 GR 10.9 bolts already have a (conservative) combined shear strength of 23k lbs. (Potentially a few thousand lbs higher due to friction and material properties) Most snatch straps will break before then anyway. Keep in mind if you have a 30k rated strap, it's only rated that for the first pull really, after that they weaken until you give them time to rest. Also consider most shackles have a working limit of 4.75T (11,000 lbs) estimate a factor of safety of 3 and that puts you at 33k lbs breaking force.
FEA results I would say are a little inconclusive, I'll work on it some more. Kinda tricky to get it all lined up in the computer.
Currently they are a little shorter then the factory "hoops". My only concern moving away from the hoop design is potentially side loading a shackle if you have to pull parallel to the rear bumper. However a soft shackle should solve that. Either way we will test them and get back with you guys! Depending on what we find we may choose to add a gusset to one side.
Looks cool....
Well done.
If the inner edge of the shackle hole was rounded n smooth...it would help with a soft shackle...
Hard edges could wear a soft shackles pretty quick.
Cheers
Baz
:blueblob:
Looks like a good design. I like Baz' idea of softening the inner edge of the attachment point and your idea of adding a gusset is also good (with the 1/2" steel it may not be necessary). I would be interested in one for both the drivers and passengers rear frame rails. I have the AFE high tuck 3" exhaust so clearance on the passenger side is not an issue.
Thanks for taking the time to develop this! :cheers:
I wonder if the factory hard points were designed to give away like shown in the photos (posted by EPM131 on 12/20), as a fuse to protect the frame and the rest of the truck from damage?
It will be interesting to see if using a far stronger design will lead to any concerns elsewhere, later.
That failed loop was mine and it happened on the first pull on a brand new vehicle (not an FJ). It was a tiedown at best. actually the pressed / welded sheet steel point that you can see in the photos that was mounted on the other side was much stronger.
I have done away with all metal shackles and moved to soft, in particular the one from Bubba rope.
Nice not having shackles rattle around in the FJ, no pins getting stuck plus they are easy to use.
Thanks everyone for your interest in these. Having some difficulty getting the FEA to show the stress correctly. Talked to my buddy at work on how to do it so I have a plan now. Still shooting to test some this weekend and then get a bunch made next week.
I forgot to bring my jump drive to work Friday with the files I needed to cut the recovery points out. I'm finding that working 12 hour days makes it hard to get other things done! Thanks for being patient, I still foresee late next week potentially cutting a bunch out after I test some early in the week.
On a good note I received a bunch of stronger grade 10.9 flange head bolts that will be included to compensate for the extra plate thickness.
Added note, if you have an unused passenger side bolt locations like me you might find the threads are heavily corroded and filled with dirt. I used a pick to clean them out, then sprayed penetrating oil on them. Then when I powerwashed my FJ I sprayed those holes really well and watched some more dirt come out. Hopefully I can get them clean enough to accept some bolts!
@iconic count me in for a set!! The idea of GOOD recovery points at all four corners makes complete sense to me...always felt uneasy about the factory ones!
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