FJ Cruiser heated mirror installation guide (section 2)
Remount the mirror. Run the new wire harness thru the mirror access hole in the door and install the 3 mirror screws finger tight. Note: the nylon clippy thing needs to be locked into the access hole and it is too flimsy to go on its own. So grab the clippy thing tool …
and insert into the clippy thing loops and pull them into locked position.
Route the harness wires through the door. Take caution to route the wires to the outside of the window track and out of harms way. Use tie-wraps to secure the harness.
Wrap a protective sleeve around the harness where it exits the window hole.
Route the wires neatly down the door and tie-wrap. Run the wires thru the door harness, thru the door “tube”, and into the cabin. Reattach the nylon piece on the door bracket and tape, reattach the door harness bracket, and reattach the door weather strip.
Mirror final assembly. Remount the outer mirror trim flange. (No picture)
Install the heating pads in the mirrors. At this time I do not have the full details. I will add details as I have them. Take the pieces that look like this .. i.e. separate pieces.
and send them to Casey and he will make them look like this .. i.e. combined pieces
Note: This is what I did while my mirrors were sent out! ($5 for both)
Cut and terminalize the heater leads. Leave sufficient slack wire in the mirror for mirror travel.
Snap the leads onto the heater terminals.
Re-install the mirrors onto the mirror body. Note: Use reverse steps to the removal process. Make sure the mirror is fully snapped back into place. It goes in kind of hard, you would be wise to wear gloves just in case and press evenly on both sides of the mirror simultaneously (left and right) to distribute the force on the mirror.
I would recommend a continuity check at this time to make sure everything is ok before you button up the door.
Route the harness wires over to the fuse block area and reinstall the door panel, kick panel and sill plate. Note: I routed the passenger side on top of the glove box, thru the center section of the dash, and on into the fuse block area.
Ok, ½ done with the main install … way to go! … Now, do the other side! I guarantee it will go faster on that side.
Final assembly. You have done both doors and you are now ready to connect the main harness body, make taps and install the switch.
What I did next was check the harness function before I drilled any holes and mounted the switch. I ran power and ground to the main harness, put the meter on it and sat back. The heaters are supposed to run for 10 minutes and shut off. So I made sure the components were working correctly before I continued.
The last portion is pretty straight forward. There are instructions included in the harness kit and you should follow them.
1) driver red and passenger red both go to the main harness red
2) driver black and passenger black both go to the main harness black
3) etc, etc.
follow the instructions in the harness kit
Drill a ¾” dia. hole for the switch. Use a Forstner bit or a hole saw. The flange on the switch is small and you need an accurate hole or it will show. I located my switch just to the left of the wiper switch panel and centered vertically.
Make all the final hook ups and run the power from a keyed terminal on the fuse block, tidy things up a bit, turn it on and go for a beer. Project is now complete.
Congratulations!
Forgot to mention ....
The wire harness kit gives you a web site where different switches are available .... I ordered another one. The full amber one "bugs me" - you can see its reflection on the side window when it is on! (it's like $1.50 for this one !!!)
Note: Mirror turn signal project
http://www.fjcruiserforums.com/forum...ors#post273128
