Quote:
Toledo FJ previously said:
I'd like cast aluminum, but if you can convince me of why I should go another way, I'm all ears! The KMC wheels are one of my favorites too. Did your friend have a body mount chop? Do you know what backspacing he used? There must be a way to run them without rub. Don't know if this matters, but I'm leaning toward black or teflon wheels with a red lock ring.
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Well, forged are stronger than cast....but are usually hella expensive. Alcoa was supposed to partner with Trail Ready to produce forged wheels with a beadlock....but I just checked their site and they don't list it. They were going to sell for $550 a wheel.
The problem with cast wheels (even the WE) are that they can and do break. I've seen 2 broken WEs and they are the thickest casting made for AL beadlocks.
Another option would be to buy Mickey Thompson Classics (forged Alcoas) and then send them into someone like Champion, Trail Ready, etc. to have them converted to beadlock....if you really want forged.
Forged can be hammered back enough to hold air whereas cast will just crack. Think of forged being like steel without the weight.
That said for a true trail rig, steel makes the most sense. For an occassional offroader that won't see really hard use, a cast wheel should be fine for most situations. If you carry a spare (I don't) it should be even less of a concern.
Depending on the tire you choose as well as the pressure you want to run, you may also consider inner and outer beadlocks instead of just the standard outer lock. It's pretty rare to have an inner bead blow, but with certain tires (BFG Reds) it is actually one of the biggest complaints when run under 9 psi.
You could also achieve the same result as inner and outer traditonal 'ring' style beadlocks with internal locks from Staun.....I personally don't care for them as they are really hard to mount and it would be concerned about puncturing the inner liner, but it's an option.
HTH,
Sean
