I ordered the all pro front coilover with res and I cana not find the adjustment tool to change the height of the shock it is to late to call the shop but this is the second time while trying to do my mods that i have missing parts!!!! It is very frustrating to start a job then find out that you can not finish it because of missing parts where is the QA in packaging!!! I am just venting because it has been a long day but it makes me very mad when I do not get all parts ordered!!! I know that All Pro will make it right, but it just seems that it should be right from the get go
I ordered the all pro front coilover with res and I cana not find the adjustment tool to change the height of the shock it is to late to call the shop but this is the second time while trying to do my mods that i have missing parts!!!! It is very frustrating to start a job then find out that you can not finish it because of missing parts where is the QA in packaging!!! I am just venting because it has been a long day but it makes me very mad when I do not get all parts ordered!!! I know that All Pro will make it right, but it just seems that it should be right from the get go
All-Pro was supplying a stamped sheetmetal part which was made by Bilstein, a one tooth spanner wrench which happened to have the same sized arc as the spring nut on your coil-over. It's a bad tool for the job and Terry at All-Pro said as much when I was at that point in the job. He recommended that I stick a 1/4" punch into the hole and use it as a lever arm. I have a different suggestion, because the punch seemed pretty wimpy compared to the forces being unleashed.
I recommend that you go to Sears and get the $15 set of strap wrenches (large and small) and use the large one.
To adjust the spring down, first make sure that the wheel is off, the frame is supported on a jack stand, and the suspension is in FULL DROOP so that there is nothing extra crushing the spring. Next, use the punch trick in the holes, cranking it down till it starts to get tight. Measure the length of the exposed threaded tube from the red annodized top down to the spring nut. This is the reference point that you can compare side to side, and can compare to recommended numbers supplied by other people (Terry/All-Pro). Once the punch starts feeling difficult, replace it with the strap wrench wrapped around the spring nut. Eventually the spring nut will start to hide behind the upper control arm. At this point, I actually wrapped the strap wrench around the BOTTOM of the spring and rotated it. It actually turns the nut and tightens it! Eventually, you can combine the strap wrench at the bottom and the punch at the top to ease the process.
If I'm remembering correctly, Terry recommended 3.5" on the driver's side and 3.25" on the passenger side (to correct for a tendency to droop more on the driver's side). I have not had an issue with droop, but I have quite a few aftermarket things up front, and I took it to 3.4" both sides.
Oh... and just FYI, I did this all in my driveway... much to the chagrin of our HOA who sent me a letter, quoting bylaws. This was because I had spent several days waiting for my rims, having already committed to the swap and having sold off my old rims/tires! My truck was up on jack stands for a week. I was driving a rental, and the HOA didn't miss the opportunity!
Thanks Doc, I will try that today. Just finished the project but need to adjust the springs, I have a DO bumper, Warn winch, and Bud built plates installed, I think I will have to crank it up a bit to get level.
Walker Evans manufactures the shocks with round holes designed to have a 1/4" punch inserted and used as a lever to pull the adjusting ring around. Another customer bought an inexpensive screwdriver with the same size round shaft, cut off the phillips head & used it as a handle. Because some manufacturers use a spanner style adjuster doesnt mean all do. The Bilsteins we sell for earlier Tacomas use that style adjuster. If you would like a modified spanner I'd be happy to send it to you no charge Monday, but it will scratch and gouge the adjusting ring.
Thanks for the reply but I used Belly Doc's tech and used the 1/4 punch. I just saw on you pics that it showed the adjusting wrench, I thought that it would come with the set. They are a great product and leveled out my FJ nicely, it took a couple of adjustment to get it there but it sure rides nice! I adjusted the coils to far at first and went way to high, I went with Belly Docs 3.4 inches but it was to much ( did not do the back lift just wanted to level out with bumper and winch installed) I then backed it off and leveled it off. Thanks for the offer of the spanner!!!
Thanks for the reply but I used Belly Doc's tech and used the 1/4 punch. I just saw on you pics that it showed the adjusting wrench, I thought that it would come with the set. They are a great product and leveled out my FJ nicely, it took a couple of adjustment to get it there but it sure rides nice! I adjusted the coils to far at first and went way to high, I went with Belly Docs 3.4 inches but it was to much ( did not do the back lift just wanted to level out with bumper and winch installed) I then backed it off and leveled it off. Thanks for the offer of the spanner!!!
D'OH!!
Yeah... uh... my result was based on having replaced the rear springs with the All-Pro 3" lift, and then festooning the front with an ARB bull bar, Warn XD9000 winch, and IPF lights... then an All-Pro front skid plate and transmission skid plate!. Meanwhile I replaced the air intake, the transfer case, the ring and pinion gears, and put an ARB air locker in the front differential - though I'm not sure if any of these appreciably changed the weight. Finally, I'm floating all that steel up over 35" tires!!