Just about ANY axle can be made to work on just about any vehicle. Just about any axle you pick is going to need modding....from steering to gears/lockers to possible width mod as well as adding/subtracting mounting bracketry.
As for cost.....while I completely disagree that someone needs to go to Dynatrac for their axle, I do believe by the time you "do it right" with lockers/gears/steering/etc.....it will be at least $5K
Sean
Thanks for the information Sean, much appreciated.
Again though, I do not see that many FJ owners SASing at this point, though I'm sure there will be a few who do! For those who decide to go ahead with it, AP makes some awesome products, and I'm sure you'll be happy with the performance/durability of their goodies!
You'd be surprised at how many FJ owners have called to inquire about the SAS.Thanx for the kind words on our parts,we appreciate it .
Hey, my International 300 Utility is great with a solid front axle.
Of course it's 1955 technology, only used in fields and has a top
speed of 17MPH.
Personally, I don't want to drive my tractor to work. Or Maine.
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Hey, my International 300 Utility is great with a solid front axle.
Of course it's 1955 technology, only used in fields and has a top
speed of 17MPH.
Personally, I don't want to drive my tractor to work. Or Maine.
Thanks for your opinion....but your FJ came with IFS and no one is forcing you to change to All Pro's kit..........
If you think that SFA technology from 55 is still valid today....you need more experience. With the right setup, it will easily outperform you on the trail and be very close to IFS on the street...best of both worlds.
I see Toyota pickup trucks (or mini truck depending on what you call it) with 37" tires and they run their factory axles without any problems. Do you have any experience with Toyota OEM axles failing while running larger tires?
OEM Front Toyota Axles (79-85 Mini-Trucks) have a few issues when going to larger tires: First being the actual axle shafts...or the steering joint, called a Birfield... they are weak, and with large tires, VERY weak. There are aftermarket shafts (Marfields, Longfields) that fix this problem ($$$). Then you get into steering which is poorly designed for lifted vehicles-this too has been addressed by the aftermarket: Hy-Steer (All-Pro, Marlin, etc), and this works wonders ($$$). With the larger tires, comes the need for re-gearing ($$$) and more likely than not, a locker ($$$). It is entirely possible that you will need to refurbish this 20+ year old axle assembly, knuckle bearing, brakes, wheel bearings ($$$). Maybe this axle isn't wide enough for the vehicle you may want to put it in (FJ Cruiser perhaps?)-aftermarket housing (Diamond, All-Pro, etc) and they are awesomely strong ($$$). In the end you will spend the money, or you will break constantly and then spend the money. Sean K said about 5K for an front axle. Run the numbers several different ways, unless you find the good products for rediculously cheap prices, you'll end up at, near or over that 5K price. So, yes, that OE Toy front axle can run large tires.
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-Mark
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New Tacoma owner - SAS in progress
Sammi getting ready for new owner
Actually, you *might* be able to do both axles for around $5K.....but it all depends on the compromises you make in terms of parts and the axles themselves. Generally, the stronger and nicer the setup, the more money you'll drop.
I spent right at $5K for both my f/r 35 spline D60s....and that was with several spare sets of axles (2 fronts, 1 rear), Krane chromoly knuckles, Sky custom steering arms, pinion flanges, ARB f/ 4130 Chromo full spool r, spicer 5.86 gears and timken rebuild kits, ARP studs, disc brake conversion for the rear axle, etc.
Keep in mind though....you're still gonna need wheels/tires (couple grand), things like sway bars, misc. bolts and nuts, brake lines, custom bracketry, rod ends of some sort if you link it as well as links themselves (I spent almost $2k just on rod ends)....and a whole host of other stuff.
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