If the Aluminum ones are snug up against the rubber bushing why can't you just mount the blue collars snug against the Aluminum ones without cutting those off? The blue collars would then prevent the Aluminum ones from moving.
Quote:
TCao previously said:
I used a hacksaw to cut off the factory swaged on aluminum swaybar collars. It took less than a minute each.
I went with the advice of several and put the AP blue collars right next to my OEM ones. Obviously if your OEM ones have moved or are damaged this will not work. This placement provides additional protection.
Not a bad approach. I have only seen the OEM ones pushed to the sides and as a result began to fail. IMO I doubt that when snugged up against a collar that sits higher they will fracture. If so, the bar could only move 3/8" assuming both sides simultaneously fail.
That 3/8" is just about far enough to strike the coil springs, at a minimum (have you noticed how close the link ends are when the sway bar is centered?). I don't want any repositioning, period!
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Dennis' Titanium 'Bird of Prey': '08 Titanium 4X4; AT; LD; A-Trac; Uniden PC78XLT CB radio & K40 hatch-mounted whip; Yaesu FT-7800R dual-band HAM radio & Comet SSB2 hatch-mounted 1/4 wave antenna; Toyota extra horn mod; no mud flaps; LT285/70/R17 Hankook Dynapro MT tars; 3" Lift (OME 884 front coils & N140S shocks, ToyTech Medium rear coils, OME N71E rear shocks); All-Phase rear diff skid; SCUBA breather mod; Steel sway bar collars; All-Pro rear shock skids and lower link skids; Digger upper and lower rear links; Rasta4x4 skids; Toytec 1" diff drop kit (as soon as I get around to spacing the skids); Metal Tech step sliders; Mini-Me OEM roof rack; fender-mounted disruptors
Where are the AP Install Instructions for the links, I can't find them in this thread or on AP's site?
There's not much to the install, actually. They specify that you measure them out to 5-1/4" overall, snug down the lock nuts on the sleeve, then install them. There's a conical spacer that goes on the top heim between the spindle and the heim joint, but other than that it's a simple bolt-on replacement.
What I did was remove one side's stock link, attach one heim to the stabilizer bar, then adjust the spindle heim connection until the heim just slides over the bolt through the spindle (snug fit). After that, tightened down the lock nuts on the sleeve. Use the same technique for the other side. Note that this was done with the wheels on the ground, and the body not lifted.
What is really missing from a perfectly-made part, however, is a slot or wrench-surface machined into the sleeve. It's pretty hard to get the lock nuts to secure sufficiently if you can't hold the sleeve. Otherwise, they're rock solid machined parts...
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Dennis' Titanium 'Bird of Prey': '08 Titanium 4X4; AT; LD; A-Trac; Uniden PC78XLT CB radio & K40 hatch-mounted whip; Yaesu FT-7800R dual-band HAM radio & Comet SSB2 hatch-mounted 1/4 wave antenna; Toyota extra horn mod; no mud flaps; LT285/70/R17 Hankook Dynapro MT tars; 3" Lift (OME 884 front coils & N140S shocks, ToyTech Medium rear coils, OME N71E rear shocks); All-Phase rear diff skid; SCUBA breather mod; Steel sway bar collars; All-Pro rear shock skids and lower link skids; Digger upper and lower rear links; Rasta4x4 skids; Toytec 1" diff drop kit (as soon as I get around to spacing the skids); Metal Tech step sliders; Mini-Me OEM roof rack; fender-mounted disruptors
1. Jack up the vehicle and support with jack stands
2. Remove the front wheels and tires
3. Unbolt the stock sway bar links using a 17mm wrench
4. Set the new All-Pro Ultimate sway bar links to the original 5.5” hole to hole length
5. Install the longer upper bolt through the heim joint, then the misalignment spacer, then the knuckle, and install a flat washer and NyLok nut on the opposite side of the knuckle. *Blue LocTite Recommended
6. Install the shorter bolt through the lower heim, then a flat washer & through the sway bar end hole from the outside, and install a flat washer and NyLok on the inside of the sway bar. *Blue LocTite Recommended
7. Tighten both the nut and bolt with wrenches (approx 60 ft. lbs)
8. Tighten the jam nuts on the heims to the center sleeve on each side (approx 40 ft. lbs).
9. Install wheels and tires & test drive. After 100 miles re-check the nuts and bolts holding the links to the knuckle and sway bar, and the jam nuts tightening the heims to the center-adjusting sleeve. You can lubricate the heims once a month to help them last longer and prevent rust with a silicone spray such as PB Blaster or WD 40.
1. Jack up the vehicle and support with jack stands
2. Remove the front wheels and tires
3. Unbolt the stock sway bar links using a 17mm wrench
4. Set the new All-Pro Ultimate sway bar links to the original 5.5” hole to hole length
5. Install the longer upper bolt through the heim joint, then the misalignment spacer, then the knuckle, and install a flat washer and NyLok nut on the opposite side of the knuckle. *Blue LocTite Recommended
6. Install the shorter bolt through the lower heim, then a flat washer & through the sway bar end hole from the outside, and install a flat washer and NyLok on the inside of the sway bar. *Blue LocTite Recommended
7. Tighten both the nut and bolt with wrenches (approx 60 ft. lbs)
8. Tighten the jam nuts on the heims to the center sleeve on each side (approx 40 ft. lbs).
9. Install wheels and tires & test drive. After 100 miles re-check the nuts and bolts holding the links to the knuckle and sway bar, and the jam nuts tightening the heims to the center-adjusting sleeve. You can lubricate the heims once a month to help them last longer and prevent rust with a silicone spray such as PB Blaster or WD 40.
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