All Pro is happy to offer Mod Express HID conversion kits. with a simple 20-30 minute plug in install, its the best kit available that we know of. Standard single beam HID is $169, and BiXenon dual HID setup (so you have HID high and low beams) is $199. Shipping is $10 to the lower 48 states and they drop ship direct from the manufacturer USPS Priority 2-3 day shipping. For ordering you need to call in, we dont have it on the website yet. They are available in any color for the same price EXCEPT 3000K which is $10 more. I personally run the 6000K and its just like the Lexus/Lincoln lights.
The other cool thing is the way they are made - instead of everything being from China with no warranty, they know where EVERY part comes from and because of the quality they come with a 1yr warranty standard:
Step 1. Every component in the ballast is put through a series of testing
Step 2. We then fill the ballast with resin so that every component is sealed
Step 3. We then cover it and continue to fill the resin through the 2 holes until the ballast is completely covered and filled. When we test to see if its waterproof, we do not just place the ballast into a tank of water, we place it in a airtight high pressured tank of water to see if it can withstand the water pressure and impact.
Bulb sizes available - the H4 now has a glare shield not pictured below:
Some info on colors from the manufacturers website:
Nowadays, the color temperature is usually 4300K, 6000Kand 8000K, etc. some people mistake that the higher the color temperature, the brighter the light. The color temperature is only related to the temperature of the light color, not to the brightness. Because the sensitivity of the eye for different color is distinct, the color temperature is too high for the eye to be sensitive, for example, the lumen of 4300K is 3200lm, but it cuts down to 2200lm when it is 12000K. The unit of the brightness is lumen, the color of 4300K is bright and yellow, and 5000K is natural sunshine, 6000K is bright and blue, 8000K is light blue, 10000K is blue, 12000K is dark blue. However, the higher the color temperature, the lower the lumen, and the penetration of the fog and rain would be worse. So it is common that the penetration of 6000K is better than 8000K. The best color temperature for driving is 4300K-8000K.
Terry, is this setup DOT Compliant? I know alot of folks have wanted to make this upgrade, but have held back because of the miriad of issues with other kits, including DOT compliance.
i cant wait for mine to get in , hoprfully gets here tommorow
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Terry, is this setup DOT Compliant? I know alot of folks have wanted to make this upgrade, but have held back because of the miriad of issues with other kits, including DOT compliance.
+1. That's an excellent price for a P'n'P bi-xenon kit though! Too bad we can't get projectors
Terry, is this setup DOT Compliant? I know alot of folks have wanted to make this upgrade, but have held back because of the miriad of issues with other kits, including DOT compliance.
*Note: Mod Express Inc. does not endorse ANY illegal use of HID kits. Due to recent developments within the NHTSA and DOT, all HID conversion kits are to be used for off-road and show purposes only. Mod Express Inc. does not assume responsibility for any illegal uses of our kits. Mod Express Inc. prohibits the use of these kits on any highway or public roads in the US.
I think I'm 50% sold on the Mod Express HID kit. The phrase 'plug-n-play' is being thrown around with this, and I'd like to know if this is truly the case. My definition of p-n-p would be a ballast that has an input harness that taps directly into the existing H4 wiring, without the need of removing the bulb receptacle. The output harness from the ballast should have a self leveling receptacle and have serious grounding throughout the kit. When it comes time to have my vehicle inspected or if I'd want to sell it, I'd want to be able to plug in halogen H4's back into the unused receptacles, and have it back to stock in 10 minutes time. That to me is p-n-p. I'd appreciate a posting of the install manual for the Mod Express kit, as I have my doubts about it being a true p-n-p deal. If any wiring needs to be cut, or things under the hood need to be relocated, I wouldn't be interested.
Also, from the innards of the ballast pictures, the most important component of the ballast (transformer) is from China.
I think I'm 50% sold on the Mod Express HID kit. The phrase 'plug-n-play' is being thrown around with this, and I'd like to know if this is truly the case. My definition of p-n-p would be a ballast that has an input harness that taps directly into the existing H4 wiring, without the need of removing the bulb receptacle. The output harness from the ballast should have a self leveling receptacle and have serious grounding throughout the kit. When it comes time to have my vehicle inspected or if I'd want to sell it, I'd want to be able to plug in halogen H4's back into the unused receptacles, and have it back to stock in 10 minutes time. That to me is p-n-p. I'd appreciate a posting of the install manual for the Mod Express kit, as I have my doubts about it being a true p-n-p deal. If any wiring needs to be cut, or things under the hood need to be relocated, I wouldn't be interested.
Also, from the innards of the ballast pictures, the most important component of the ballast (transformer) is from China.
I am with you on the PNP. If this is DOT compliant I might be in for it.
I cant speak for all-pros exact model but the one I just bought today is basiclly the same. Plug and play = no wire splicing.
1. I removed the H4 bulb, put in a metal mound that fit right in the H4 bracket, the HID bulb twisted right in to the metal mount.
2. One ballast plugged in to the bulb on each side.
3. Both ballasts went to one control box (size of a wooden match stick box), just plug,.
4. Then the old harness just plugged into the control box. The control box had a one hot lead to the battery, one ground for the body.
No cutting ,no splicing, no electrical tape, no twisting of wires, no wire stripping. The only tools involved were a socket for the battery bolt , and ground bolt. Plus a drill to mount the ballasts about the size of a deck of cards.
I was up and runing in 30 min. If I had to do it again I could do it in 15 min.
If anyone in the valley needs help with instill Im be more then glad to help its REALLY easy!!!
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Black Diamond 4x4 AT QC UR C7 V5 Z2, Low-Jack ,On 33" Nitto mud grappler, Fox Shox front, 3" Revtek lift rear, Pro-comp Xtreme Steel rims, PIAA Mirror lights, TRD Cold air intake, N-fab nerf bars, Road Armor Titan bumper with K.C. Rally 800-pencil beams/ PIAA 510 ION Fog lights, Manik tail light guards, Bushwacker fender flares and Black Diamond trim.
Last edited by Chatsworth 818 FJ : 11-10-2007 at 11:10 PM.
I am with you on the PNP. If this is DOT compliant I might be in for it.
No HID kit is DOT compliant - you cannot legally retrofit an HID bulb into a halogen housing. The only legal HID systems are factory installed units, or aftermarket units that come complete with the entire lens assembly, and have DOT-approved on the lens and on the ballast. There are no such kits available for the FJC, or most vehicles, for that matter.
In addition, an H4 replacement (or 9004, 9007, and any dual filament bulb) must have a high and low beam - HIDs are single filament low beam only. Bixenon systems cover for that by changing the angle of the bulb for high and low beam, and that's why the reflector is critical to aim the light in the correct pattern.
In reality, it is difficult to tell if a car came with HIDs or not, unless you do not have high and low beams functional, or if the shielding of the bulb is poor and the reflector sends light all over the place.
Also, you must disable the daytime running lights if you retrofit HIDs - the reduced voltage DRLs send will not fire an HID, and can damage the ballast and ignitor over time...
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