I posted this on the TTORA site also, don't mean to double post...but I think you are have addressed all the issues with being able to "upgrade" for varying needs. My "need" is to be able to run the exhaust through the bumper, like I photoshopped in the pic. I hate that the exhaust is the "drag" in departure angle and would like to get it tucked up/out of the way and be semi-protected. What do you think?
__________________
Sun Fusion 4X4 AT ATRAC Hack'd
Demello sliders
Demello front bumper w/Warn M8000
Demello rear bumper
OME 886/140 Front, 895/N71e rear
All-Pro rear links w/bracket skids
Inchworm Lefty
ARB front air locker
Nitro 4.88 gears
Bud Built skids front to back
Super Swamper TrXus Mud Radial 255/85/16
Safari Snorkel
ARB Full Rack w/wind deflector
Train Hard, Rest Harder
TLCA # 17784
I posted this on the TTORA site also, don't mean to double post...but I think you are have addressed all the issues with being able to "upgrade" for varying needs. My "need" is to be able to run the exhaust through the bumper, like I photoshopped in the pic. I hate that the exhaust is the "drag" in departure angle and would like to get it tucked up/out of the way and be semi-protected. What do you think?
That's a really interesting idea. Do you think that might cause problems with heat (a red hot bumper)? Otherwise that's pretty clever.
I would like to see a gas can mount without the swing arm tire carrier. Stock tire location works fine for me; however, I would like to have somewhere to mount the go-go juice......
Thanks for sharing Jason, you are top shelf my friend!
I've been looking very closely at rear bumpers to get one on this summer. The others don't leave this gap. It might not look so noticable after powder coating but I want to understand your design as compared to the others.
It may be an optical illusion but the gap line doesn't even look straight.
That gap is necessary if you have the top of the rear bumper sitting right on the rear crossmember. If you take off your rear bumper you will see that the rear crossmember has a piece of styrofoam on top to fill the gap between the crossmember and the plastic 'step' area on the factory bumper. All-Pro ramps their bumper up at an angle just before the door to close the gap (other manufactures shape the bumper differently but achieve the same look). Demello has chosen to leave the deck flat and close the gap right where the body ends. Being done like this will give you a much larger flat 'step' area than any of the other bumpers. The reason it takes so long to do a rear bumper is becuase it's weird back there. The frame and crossmemeber and the way the body works behind those big plastic corners...not very 'mod' friendly.
This is all my opinion based on taking off my rear bumper and analyzing what options there are back there.
__________________ 1 Bored Clerk
Inchworm Gear E-Locker Guard
It would be great if I had a clue, but let's face it, that's just not gonna happen.
That's a really interesting idea. Do you think that might cause problems with heat (a red hot bumper)? Otherwise that's pretty clever.
If the exhaust was that hot at the rear of the vehicle you'd have serious problems with your FJ. Lots of sports cars run the exhaust through the rear facia with no problems at all. Plus you can put a nice exhaust tip on the end that would insulate the bumper from the exhaust pipe a little.
I was thinking of doing this myself, and just drilling the right sized hole in whatever bumper I decide to get. You do need to make sure the tail pipe is mounted well or that the hole size is perfect, so it isn't always rattling against the bumper ... that would drive you crazy in a hurry.
That gap is necessary if you have the top of the rear bumper sitting right on the rear crossmember. If you take off your rear bumper you will see that the rear crossmember has a piece of styrofoam on top to fill the gap between the crossmember and the plastic 'step' area on the factory bumper. All-Pro ramps their bumper up at an angle just before the door to close the gap (other manufactures shape the bumper differently but achieve the same look). Demello has chosen to leave the deck flat and close the gap right where the body ends. Being done like this will give you a much larger flat 'step' area than any of the other bumpers. The reason it takes so long to do a rear bumper is becuase it's weird back there. The frame and crossmemeber and the way the body works behind those big plastic corners...not very 'mod' friendly.
This is all my opinion based on taking off my rear bumper and analyzing what options there are back there.
I also think that with the finished powder-coated or painted product you'd be very unlikely to notice that gap at all ... just my .02
ohhhhh, I almost fotgot ... GREAT looking bumper !!!
If the exhaust was that hot at the rear of the vehicle you'd have serious problems with your FJ. Lots of sports cars run the exhaust through the rear facia with no problems at all. Plus you can put a nice exhaust tip on the end that would insulate the bumper from the exhaust pipe a little.
I was thinking of doing this myself, and just drilling the right sized hole in whatever bumper I decide to get. You do need to make sure the tail pipe is mounted well or that the hole size is perfect, so it isn't always rattling against the bumper ... that would drive you crazy in a hurry.
Mark
Well, since the pipe is hot enough to deliver 3rd degree burns I merely wondered. I realize that the exhaust is routed through the rear facia on a lot of cars but I am not aware of the materials used to achieve this. It was just a thought.
Linear Mode
