Help. Any idea how the disable VSC in 2H? Is a 2-axle dyno the only option?
I am trying to do a baseline dyno (stock TRD SE), then a TRD cold air intake dyno, and eventually a TRD supercharger dyno for the benefit of me and this board. I just spent several hours at the dyno shop trying to make it work. We are using a single axle dyno, 5AT in 2H. The VSC refused to let the rear accelerate when the front wheels were not moving.
Some had said the TRD SE allowed the rear diff to stay locked in 4H and 2H after being locked 2L. I know this is the case for 4H, but we could not keep the diff locked in 2H (and thus keeping VSC disabled).
We also tried removing fuses and other unmentionable tricks and abuse. No dice, the computer won't let the rear accelerate above about 5 mph when the fronts arn't moving.
Local Toyota service dept says no dice, you have to test it in 4L on a two-axle dyno. For best results, the test needs to be done in 4th gear (1:1 gear ratio). Toyota service didn't seem to realize that the newer FJs allow the rear diff to stay locked in 4H once locked in 4L.
yes, They said they were going to try that, but I did not witness it. It seems the computer still cuts the throttle (or applies breaks to the rears). The front ABS sensors are telling the computer no movement at the front wheels and VSC appears to do more than just applying ABS to the fronts.
I'll confirm that with them. If VSC is breaks only, then that should work.
Unplug one or more of the wheel speed sensors. It should pretty much disable VSC and ATRAC. If the ECU can see the speed at one wheel, it goes into a safe mode by disabling the whole system.
I, too would be interested in some info on this. I was headed down to the local shop with a DynoJet 248(H?) tomorrow, just for kicks. I bet it would yield better numbers with more than 500 miles though.
DJ dynos typically yield high #'s for bragging rights, but them and the Mustang dyno are probably the most common, making them a better choice for consistency on comparisons on different mods from members scattered all over.
A Superflow 900C is, IMHO, the most accurate, but not too many shops can justify a 300k dyno. Plus, the numbers are real, and some 'can't handle the truth', lol.
I, too would be interested in some info on this. I was headed down to the local shop with a DynoJet 248(H?) tomorrow, just for kicks. I bet it would yield better numbers with more than 500 miles though.
We are using a DynoJet also. Assuming that disconnecting the VSC from the master cylinder or other trick allows the FJ to be dyno tested, I'd suggest the following:
On the AT5, have them test it in 4th gear (that is the closest to 1:1 gear ratio) for best comparison with others.
take a 3.5" computer disk so you can get an electronic copy of the curve for sharing.
Also, after disconnecting things, your dash will be lit up with all sorts of warning lights (check engine, VSC, A-trac, etc.). The lights will go away after you drive a few miles and restart the car.
I'd expect HP of a stock FJ to be about 180-190 HP on the dynojet (about 20% less than the published crank numbers).
A Dyno is a Dyno IF it is the same Dyno before and after mods.
Even between Dynos in any given geographic area - Gearheads know who's Dyno gives "Real" numbers vs Dyno Queen numbers.
ALL any Dyno is - is a before/after tool for mods and a place to do Computer remapping.
Ask a gear head how much power his car makes and he'll give you 1/4 mile slip times and 60ft times.
Not Dyno #'s.
Rest in peace little buddies
Linear Mode
