owners manual does say every 15 thousand miles so it is time for me. just curious how hard to change front diff fluid myself.rear looks easy enough..surely there is a pdf on how to change front diff fluid..
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Last edited by stringmachine : 12-08-2007 at 07:23 AM.
I changed the diff and transfer case fluids at 3000 miles. The front diff and transfer case oil looked good but the rear diff oil was already dark black with lots of small shavings and some pretty big chunks of swarf (those bits of metal you get when you drill holes).
I have a later model FJ. I'd recommend changing the rear diff oil (at least) almost immediately to flush out the junk that a lot of people seem to find in there.
I refilled with Redline... there are a lot of "how to" threads and info on oils if you do a search.
is there a drain plug for the front diff to drain it and how hard is it to refill it, the rear looks easy enough.. I am planning either to take it in let them do it, but i would like to do this and save a little on it..
I'm glad to see such an active bunch of guys. I changed mine myself as it is very easy. A 15/16 wrench or socket is all you need. Drain and fill to the level of the check bolt. I should have clarified that the problem lies in the rear diff. only. My front diff. and transfer case look like new still. The only hard part is squirting the oil into the hole. Some oils come with a pump dispenser, most come with a lid that has a tapered tip. Just turn it sideways and squeeze. Take what is left and put in the next bottle. In the end there will be some left over, but oh well...
As far as checking the front diff. goes, it should be the same as the rear. You have to remove the skid plate though.
is there a drain plug for the front diff to drain it and how hard is it to refill it, the rear looks easy enough.. I am planning either to take it in let them do it, but i would like to do this and save a little on it..
I changed mine at 1,600 km or 1,000 mi. Like others have commented, my rear axle fluid was jet black already. The drain plug magnet already had heavy fuzz buildup, no actual gear pieces though
The rear axle and transfer case are very easy. If you buy quart/litre bottles of gear oil, they already have a nipple you cut off and just refill. The front axle is a different matter
From the driver side, if you shine a flashlight at the front axle you can see the recessed hex head drain and fill plugs. It's easier if you take the rearmost factory skid plate off. If you have the Toyota aluminum optional front skidplate, you will need to remove that first, then the rear skidplate
I had one hell of a time getting my recessed hex head fill plug off. There really isn't a lot of room to work in so I managed to scrape my knuckles and ape arms a few times
I use Mobil Delvac Synthetic Gear Oil 75W-90, which is a heavy duty gear oil intended for severe operating conditions in road transport, logging, and mining operations. Got a 20 litre pail, on a per litre basis worked out to $6.50
I have a pail pump, so refilling the axles is very easy for me. I can do the front axle, transfer case, and rear axle in 25 minutes
NOTE: when you do decide to change your gear oil, ALWAYS take the fill plug off first! If for any reason the fill plug is cross threaded or otherwise fubar'd, you sure don't want to find out after you've taken the drain plug out
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2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser 5AT "C" package, Sun Fusion
2004 Toyota Prius "B" package, Tideland Pearl
My rear Diff. took 3.3 Qts. (Manual says 3.1)
Anybody have the same experience?
I'm Curious because of the attention that seems to be given to the exact fill amount in the manual and elsewhere.
I would think that if you filled it through the drain hole or at least left the drain plug out while you filled it through the fill hole, on a level surface, you'd not have to worry about overfilling. The full level should be at the bottom lip of the drain hole, so while filling once it starts to come out the drain hole, stop filling and plug everything up.
But yes, the overfilling is a consideration depending upon when you put the two plugs back in.
As stated previously, the sequence should be:
1. Top (fill) plug out-check threads and see if goes back in easily
2. Drain plug open-with container beneath.
3. With drain plug still out, fill case by fill hole or drain hole until fluid starts coming out of drain (level surface).
4. Both plugs back in and tight.
Comments on alternative methods certainly welcome.
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08 Voodoo Blue, 5A/T, CQ, UR#2, Roof Rack, 20" Wheels/Tires, Armrest, Hitch and Wiring Kit
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Bumper/Winch Mount-Lucrum Winch Mount and Light Bar with running and fog lights
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