That happened to me too with the exception of the ABS light. Most on the boards who have had this problem had a front wheel speed sensor issue, their gas cap was not on tight and/or varmints got to the wiring. When it happened to me it was due to my TRD CAI tube coming off at the cold air box. This obviously through the MAF for a loop and all the lights came on. It's strange that all the of the drive train lights are connected to the MAF but then I'm no engineer.
Thanks Wyo for the insight. I hope that it is a sensor or a wire like you say...hopefully it will be covered by warranty. I made an appt for today at 1 to have them check it out.
I said before that on my way to work the lights did not illuminate...well just tested it (did the 4wd shift and forward/backward movement) and nothing changed. I will let you know what happens.
When that happened to me last week it was because the unibearing in the right front went out. I think that may be the worst case scenario.
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Brought it in. Turns out my VSC cancel switch voided my electrical wiring. They won't even pursue it. What should I do?
I wish I had seen this thread earlier I would have told you they were going to freak out about that switch. Next best thing is when you get the $92 let them scan it so they can tell you what the code is and we on the board will go from there.
Or you may try to take the switch out and go to another dealer and see if they will cover it for you. when you take it out it has to look as if nobody has been tampering with it so they dont have a reason to question it.
I wish I had seen this thread earlier I would have told you they were going to freak out about that switch. Next best thing is when you get the $92 let them scan it so they can tell you what the code is and we on the board will go from there.
Or you may try to take the switch out and go to another dealer and see if they will cover it for you. when you take it out it has to look as if nobody has been tampering with it so they dont have a reason to question it.
Tim
Thanks Tim, someone earlier in the thread warned me as well about the switch, guess I didn't even think about it. I should have removed it. I got some information from the service tech. He said it's the Brake Master Cylinder. He said there is an "open circuit" there. I asked about the sensors and everything else and he said his machine is throwing a code there. And that is where the splicing was done...I probably did a bad splicing job. Anyways, I am going to remove the switch and solder the wiring back to normal and close it up as if no ones touched it. Hopefully the codes will clear and everything will be fine... If it isn't then I will take it to another dealer.
If removing the switch wiring (1st) then, disconnecting the battery (2nd) does solve the problem, then take it to a chain auto parts store like Checker's or Autozone or similar and they will read the code for you for free.
DEWFPO
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I wish it were something as easy as a gas cap but that usualy only turns the check engine light on. Hopefully the last dealer didnt "black list" you. If they did deny it to the end at the new dealership once you get the splicing job done. That master cylinder is about a $1500 part that the dealer HAS to put on due to the need of a scan tool to blead it. Chances are nobody even scanned it or he would have givin you the code number. He opened your hood, saw the wires and shut the hood, then gave you a call.
I wish it were something as easy as a gas cap but that usualy only turns the check engine light on. Hopefully the last dealer didnt "black list" you. If they did deny it to the end at the new dealership once you get the splicing job done. That master cylinder is about a $1500 part that the dealer HAS to put on due to the need of a scan tool to blead it. Chances are nobody even scanned it or he would have givin you the code number. He opened your hood, saw the wires and shut the hood, then gave you a call.
good luck
Hopefully I didn't get black listed. We will see what happens. I am going to remove the switch tonight and do the work. Thanks for the heads up...I think that is what he did do...but he said that the codes said that there was an open circuit in the brake master cylinder and that's as far as the reading went.
Autozone will read the codes for free?? If the lights go out...should I get the codes read anyways? Or only if they are still on?