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Old 04-21-2008, 08:22 AM   #1 (permalink)
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Idle air control valve?

What is it or better yer, where is it? I have a can of BG throttle body & intake cleaner and have cleaned the intake on other vehicles before but this can says to remove idle air control valveand clean, spraying liberally. I know it is somewhere along the intake but I dont want to pull and break something.
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Old 04-21-2008, 03:47 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Idle air control valve?

I took the intake off and cleaned the throttle body and a bit of black build up came out. I know the idle air conrol valve is on the throttle body in most cars but does anyone know about it on the FJ?
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Old 04-22-2008, 03:47 PM   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Idle air control valve?

Apparently the FJ does not use a separate IAC valve. I'm familiar with IAC as my 2000 GMC Sierra Vortec 5.3 used such a system to control idle. Once the valve had some deposits, it would stall

I dredged up the following service manual pages. Hope it helps
Attached Files
File Type: pdf 0050041.pdf (36.8 KB, 25 views)
File Type: pdf 0050070.pdf (312.9 KB, 16 views)
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Old 04-22-2008, 09:56 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Idle air control valve?

Quote:
jayman previously said: View Post
Apparently the FJ does not use a separate IAC valve. I'm familiar with IAC as my 2000 GMC Sierra Vortec 5.3 used such a system to control idle. Once the valve had some deposits, it would stall

I dredged up the following service manual pages. Hope it helps

Hallo, Jay,

How was your Business trip?

Nice to hear you again!

Did you perform the 0W-40 oil sample test on FJ already, what the result?

Only You probably know the answer: may I however to tune up the air/fuel proportion? It is seems to me that too rich, because of low MPG and too much black soot in to exhaust pipe…
I am using only Shell V-power Gas, which is about 95 Octane here.

Thanks in advance!
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Old 04-23-2008, 07:15 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Idle air control valve?

Thanks for the info.
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Old 04-23-2008, 09:02 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Idle air control valve?

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How was your Business trip?
Which one? I'm now averaging an offsite trip at least once every two weeks.

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Did you perform the 0W-40 oil sample test on FJ already, what the result?
The results came back *very* good. Initially, I had high metals, which is perhaps normal for break-in. My FJ currently has almost 14,000 km, the metals were below what was expected

Nitration and oxidation was very low, under 10 #UFM. Viscosity was 13.6 cSt, TBN was 8. The oil was clearly good for much longer than 8,000 km

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It is seems to me that too rich, because of low MPG and too much black soot in to exhaust pipe…
I think must of us have reported some soot on the exhaust pipe. Even my hybrid Prius has a bit of soot on the pipe. Do you actually smell hydrogen sulfide odors, indicating a rich condition for the catalytic converters? Is the Check Engine light on?

The fuel economy of my FJ slowly improved during break in, and has remained fairly constant. At temps near -40 C, a combination of town and highway driving I averaged 15 litres per 100km, or 18 mpg.

It finally warmed up and the snow disappeared. With temps of 10-18 C, my highway fuel economy is now around 11 litres per 100km or 26 mpg

How many miles do you have on the FJ? A lot of us who changed the spark plugs noted an improvement in performance and fuel economy, as I did.

I remember us discussing the petrol quality in the Ukraine and Russia, with high amounts of ferrocene. It could be that iron/rust deposits have coated the spark plugs. Let's hope the O2 sensors and catalytic converters are ok

As the fuel quality won't change anytime soon, you could try ordering one of those O2 simulator boxes. Remove the O2 sensors and catalytic converters.

Ford shipped a number of Crown Victoria Police Interceptor cars to Russia, to be used especially around Moscow. They were shipped without emissions equipment.

This is fairly common for vehicles made here intended for export elsewhere. GM shipped a number of Caprice police cars to the Mid East until they discontinued the car in 1996. All were shipped without O2 sensors or catalytic converters, so they would run ok on leaded petrol

Hope your FJ issue is something that can be easily fixed, eg changing spark plugs

jay
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Old 04-23-2008, 06:58 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Idle air control valve?



Thank you Jay for the quick reply,

This is so good news about 0W-40 test result, Thanks!

I am going to use ARAL SuperTronic SAE 0W-40 / ACEA A3/B4,C3; API SM/CF for next oil change (at 5000miles and then every 5000-7000miles).

My FJ is only 3500miles now.

I did change the engine oil twice already (at 1000 and 3000miles using Mobil 1 5W-30) When I changed the Oil first time - I have heard some strange knocking noise from the engine (like valves or timing, something else ) which has disappeared in 100miles. (?)

Also I had change the rear Differential oil at 1000miles, it was black enough (using ARAL Getriebeoel HYP SYNTH. SAE 75W-90/API GL5) and going to change it again at 5000miles.

I hope Shell not using ferrocine for his Gas here, at least for V-Power. I have check one Spark Plug – like new, nothing unusual, also there is no any strange smell from the exhaust pipe, nothing but very black inside. I am looking for possibility to tune up air/fuel proportion to make it mixture a little bit poorer of fuel, just like on the old style engines, if possible…

By the way, what would be the best Spark Plugs for FJ ? : NGK, Denso, BOSCH, E3, cooper, iridium, platinum, 1, 2, 3 or 4 spark-gaps - I don’t know , may be you or some guys has solution or good experience on it, - any opinions appreciated…
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Old 04-24-2008, 07:59 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Idle air control valve?

Quote:
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I am going to use ARAL SuperTronic SAE 0W-40
That is a very good oil, very well respected in Europe. Should work fine

Quote:
Victor-FJ previously said: View Post
I did change the engine oil twice already (at 1000 and 3000miles using Mobil 1 5W-30) When I changed the Oil first time - I have heard some strange knocking noise from the engine (like valves or timing, something else ) which has disappeared in 100miles.
Perhaps the oil system went "dry" during the oil change, and the noise was the result of waiting for the system to pressurise itself. With the proper oil filter, that should go away

Quote:
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Also I had change the rear Differential oil at 1000miles, it was black enough (using ARAL Getriebeoel HYP SYNTH. SAE 75W-90/API GL5) and going to change it again at 5000miles.
The Aral heavy duty gear oil you are using is also a very good oil, and also widely used in Europe by MAN and Volvo for their highway trucks. Did you find a lot of metal sludge on the drain plug magnet?

Quote:
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I hope Shell not using ferrocine for his Gas here, at least for V-Power. I have check one Spark Plug – like new, nothing unusual, also there is no any strange smell from the exhaust pipe, nothing but very black inside.
It sounds like Shell is importing the gasoline from Western Europe, and they are not using anything like ferrocene or MMT. Ferrocene will leave a red ash deposit on the spark plug. MMT will leave a tan/beige ash deposit on the spark plug

I'm fairly certain a lot of us have reported the exhaust pipe being black. As I mentioned, the pipe on my FJ and even my hybrid Prius are black.

Quote:
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By the way, what would be the best Spark Plugs for FJ ? : NGK, Denso,
Toyota recommends a regular copper spark plug for the FJ motor. No need to waste money on anything not needed. I've tried the fancy - expensive - spark plugs in other cars, the only difference was my wallet didn't have as much money in it

I went with the NGK as - around here at least - they are widely available at discount auto part stores. I did check into the Denso, can only get them from the dealership. They cost $18 more for all 6 spark plugs.

I may try Denso next time I change my plugs. If there is no difference in performance, and I doubt there will be, I will then continue using NGK

As far as spark plug gap, the NGK I bought had a cardboard tube protecting the business end. I checked and all of them had been factory gapped to the correct amount.
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