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4 lights of death... abs, vsc, traction contol, and skid control... Questions....

101K views 73 replies 46 participants last post by  max.tomfoolery 
#1 ·
So after a doing a little search, i couldn't kind my answer, but i did find out that many others have experienced these lights coming on. The search has revealed that these lights all coming on in sequence could mean a number of different things. I read from things as simple to low brake fluid to the whole master cylinder needing to be replaced. But upon reading i found my rig was doing a couple things different than others have posted with the same lights.

First, my rig will not come out of park. I have to press the shift bypass button, and to get my rig out of park so i can get on my way. It is at this point (the second i put it in drive) where the lights come on. Now this has happened to me a total of three times. The first time was a few months ago. Came on while driving, stopped at Starbucks and a business meeting. After the meeting,hopped in the truck, lights were on, but as soon as i hit the brakes, they turned off. I could shift into drive no problem. Problem never came back until yesterday.
Stopped to get gas, then it happed all over again. Did the same thing to get on my way. About 10 minutes into my drive, the lights turned off by themselves. Though i think i hit the brakes when they turned off. That's another thing. When this happens, i don't have brake lights.
So this morning i took the rig to a friend of mine with an OBD2 scanner so i can at least see if its holding codes. Just my luck, no codes have been stored. :mecry: After piecing all the clues toeghter..

-no brake lamps..
- Can't shift out of park
-Dash lights only seem to turn at the same time i tap the brakes


I'm thinking that i might just be my brake lamp switch. But it sucks cause unless it acts up, i can't test for a bad switch. Could it be something else? I sure hope not.
So i guess the purpose of this thread is to see if anyone else have experienced similar symptoms. I'm going to carry my volt meter around with me for a while in the event it does act up again i can do a quick test. Any help would be appreciated.
 
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#2 ·
With those four lights lighting on the dash maybe your ABS sensor on your brake hub is bad or damaged. The VSC ABS TRC Skid all came on when my sensor was damaged.
 
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#3 · (Edited)
I have and AT, but once in my early days I had all lights come on. It drove fine, but brakes were obviously quirky and no rear locker or ATrac. Warranty replacement of an ABS sensor in the front driver side wheel fixed it luckily. I'd start there. Bad news is it ain't a cheap part to replace. If you can get the part, you can do the labor yourself - only a screw or two hold it in place after you remove the wheel and probably the caliper, IIRC.

I also recall it "resetting" itself when I shut the vehicle off. Then I'd drive for 60 seconds and they'd all come on again. If you are feeling daring, and have a safe place to do this: try accelerating up a bit and stomp on the brakes to see if the ABS seems off balance or working at all.
 
#4 ·
Chances are that when the ABS light is on, the ABS isn't working. I haven't done any panic stops to verify this, but in other vehicles i've worked on,if one of the lights on the dash stay illuminated, then the associated system shuts off for saftey reasons.
But you do make a good point that if there is something funny with a sensor, that maybe the truck will feel off balance on an "emergency" stop. Thanks for the sugjestion.
 
#5 ·
I'd look at the brake light switch on the brake pedal like you mentioned. If it is failing it could cause your problem of not getting out of park, as well and being park of all the systems that you have lights on for. If the computers are looking for a signal or specific resistance that goes open it could kick on all those lights.
 
#7 ·
Just FYI...............the same four lights came on earlier this year on my '07 FJ @25K miles. It turned out that my Catalytic Converter was bad, but since it was covered under warranty, it did not cost me anything! :bigthumb:

Thought you should know that could be the problem, as well. Best of luck in finding and fixing the problem and let us know how it goes!
 
#12 ·
Update...

Ok,so the lights came back on again. Broke out my trusty Bull Point Volt meter and went to work. Just as i suspected..

I wasn't getting any voltage on the accesory side of the brake blamp switch. Also tested the hot side of the switch to make sure i was getting a 12V source to start with. I was.

So a couple hours later i was getting ready to leave for work. Started the truck up, lights were on. Went to put it in gear, and low and behold, she slipped into gear and as soon as i let off the brake, all lights turned off.
Soi did another voltage test at the brake lamp switch. This time i was getting 12V on the accesory side of the switch.
So at this point, i'm thinking that its the brake lamp switch thats going out. I've placed an order through Napa Autoparts and the new switch will be here thursdayWe'll see if this does indeed cure the problem.
 
#14 ·
I have been experiencing the same problem as well...since early 08. It started with me knocking the sensor loose offroading, that was fixed by a buddy and no problems uintil last year. Driving for hours in a snowstorm the lights came on randomly but with no performance effects. At the end of the cold icy drive, i parked in safeway to get some food, came back out started it up, drove out of the intersecton, and the vsc kicked in??? It stopped me in the middle of the intersection. After pushing it out, tried restrting and driving and such with no such luck over 5 mph would kick it in it would bog down to a stop(not engine related definitely a screwy tech system). Left this over night and came back to a fully functioning car.

My guess is the sensor froze over when I parked and set something off...but this should not be normal. Over the summer I had no issues until the lights started coming back on again but with no performance effect. Went to dealership and of course the lights werent on and the found nothing (whats new)


anyways, with winter approaching here very quickly where do i go from here
 
#15 ·
I'm a tech at Lexus and wanted to throw in my 2 cents. When my lights come on it's usually because the monitor ran (overnight) an evap test and it may have failed. I'm not sure but it mat be a two trip monitor in order to set this dtc. I just take off the gas cap, put it back on and cycle the engine by making a few really short trips around town. This clears all the lights quickly. By the way I have a Stant locking gas cap.

Now for the brake lights Toyota has had a few models in the last few years or so with failing brake light switches. If you have the specs, detailed circuit info and a wiring diagram you can test it like you said. But I'd do that first before you buy anymore parts. Hope this helps you a little and maybe some others.
 
#18 ·
Now for the brake lights Toyota has had a few models in the last few years or so with failing brake light switches. If you have the specs, detailed circuit info and a wiring diagram you can test it like you said. But I'd do that first before you buy anymore parts. Hope this helps you a little and maybe some others.
Well like i said, i tested the brake lamp switch when all the (dash) lights were off and everything worked normal. Switch tested out fine. Then when the (dash) lights came back on, and i could get my rig out of park,i tested the switch again. No 12V past the switch. I should also note that i tested to make sure that i was getting 12V before the switch both when the dash lights were on and off. That tested positive as well. So as of now, its looking like a brake lamp switch.


The brake-shift interlock system is to prevent people from using auto transmissions improperly. There is usually a solenoid in the shifter assembly that moves a stopper away from the shifter linkage when you press the brake pedal, allowing you to shift out of park. This solenoid is controlled by the signal from the brake light switch, which (obviously) also turns the brake lights on and off. So, if the brake light switch goes bad, then the brake-shift interlock solenoid will not receive a signal to unlock the shifter and as such you will not be able to shift out of park (and the brake lights will not turn on).
Exactly. There all conceted on the same circuit. Again, leading me to believe the switch went out.
I recieved the switch today, so i'm going to swap it out tommorrow and see if that fixes the problem.
 
#16 ·
Re:lights of death... abs, vsc, traction contol, and skid control... Questions....

I am not understanding the correlation between the lights and the not coming out of park issue.Currently I fried a right front speed sensor when the wheel bearing went away.....so to keep driving and have some brakes, all sensors are unplugged(and sealed,terms plugged) until the new sensor arrives.This activates the 4 lights of death and the brake light. No problem with park shifting though...????
I use a gps for speedo, and after a few hours the brakes worked REALLY well.
Not thread jacking here-just curious if I should expect this problem to pop up ?
 
#17 ·
Re: lights of death... abs, vsc, traction contol, and skid control... Questions....

I am not understanding the correlation between the lights and the not coming out of park issue.Currently I fried a right front speed sensor when the wheel bearing went away.....so to keep driving and have some brakes, all sensors are unplugged(and sealed,terms plugged) until the new sensor arrives.This activates the 4 lights of death and the brake light. No problem with park shifting though...????
I use a gps for speedo, and after a few hours the brakes worked REALLY well.
Not thread jacking here-just curious if I should expect this problem to pop up ?
The brake-shift interlock system is to prevent people from using auto transmissions improperly. There is usually a solenoid in the shifter assembly that moves a stopper away from the shifter linkage when you press the brake pedal, allowing you to shift out of park. This solenoid is controlled by the signal from the brake light switch, which (obviously) also turns the brake lights on and off. So, if the brake light switch goes bad, then the brake-shift interlock solenoid will not receive a signal to unlock the shifter and as such you will not be able to shift out of park (and the brake lights will not turn on).
 
#21 ·
Yesterday my "4 lights of death" lit up. I'm in Pennsylvania, so it's cold but not too cold. My ABS doesn't seem to be working. I did drive through some deep snow before the lits came on (a day prior).

I don't have any issues coming out of park, but then I have a standard transmission, so....

Anyway, just throwing my situation in the pot and wondering how yours is going.
 
#22 ·
In November, right after I was towed for illegal parking, I had the four lights come up. I was crapping my pants because I figured the tow guy messed something up.

The lights never stayed on though, they would be on for a few hours, then off, then on again. I took it to Toyota twice and they said they couldn't find anything. Right after the second trip to Toyota they never came on again; this was in November.

Two days ago they came on again. This time they stayed on, and wouldn't go off. I brought it to Toyota yesterday and they said I need a new catalytic converter. It's in the shop as I write this. So we'll see how it turns out.

In the 2-3 days before the lights came on this time, I was in 4HL and 4LL quite a bit (I was up in that ridiculousness snowstorm in upstate NY), also I got an oil change, and engine flush the day before the lights came on. I don't know if any of those things could contribute to a catalytic converter being damaged.

I just thought I'd share my "4 lights of death" story.
 
#71 ·
Oh no this is exactly where I am... went to one shop he said it was the front passenger side abs sensor so I replaced it and it didn't fix the problem. Paid the dealer to inspect and they say I need a master cylinder... I'm worried I don't need one and also that it wont fix the problem. I've seen the scanner, shows no signal to the front passenger side, wires are new and were checked and are good. I'm still reading through comments, just thought I'd post this for now. I need to fix this asap. Also if anyone knows where I can get a cheap master cylinder that would be helpful! Toyota wants $5000.
 
#26 ·
It has been perfect since my last post. The Speed sensor seemed to have fixed all my issues with the lights.
If you have a buddy with another toyota truck i would highly suggest you just swap it out to see if it fixes the issue. But my dealer seems to warranty everything i break.
 
#28 ·
Well Well Well, here is another version of this.... I just had an Avital remote start installed by a professional (said very loosly), but he is recommended by Directed Electronics who makes Viper and Avital among a few others. When we left my wife drove it away and I drove my other vehicle away, she noticed it being very slow to react to being taken out of park and put into drive, then it lurches into gear, also the 4 lights (of death) where on.... I took it back but the tech will not be back until Tuesday (figures)!

When I got into it this morning the lights were off, but it slill lurches into gear.

So any ideas? The remote start and alarm all work great, but the vehicle should still work flawlessly.

2008 fj, auto trans, 26,000 miles

Thanks!

Cody
 
#29 ·
Anyone found a solution for this issue? The light just came on my FJ while I was driving. I dont feel any difference in the performance of the brakes, its just the lights that have come on. I plan to go do a computer diagnosis today. Hope they figure out whats the issue.
 
#31 ·
I just had this issue on my 2007 MT. My Injen cold air intake had come loose and the 4 death lights came on.
After reattaching the intake box I reset the battery and started it up. All the lights were cleared out. Just now I need to reprogram my stereo. :(
 
#32 ·
Charcoal or Vapor Canister is bad on mine and gives the 4 lights and shuts down TRAC and VSC.
 
#34 ·
I had basically same thing happen to me in my 2005 4 Runner. I called dealership and a service writer (a very young sounding lady) told me that this could be caused by several different things, the simplest being a loose gas cap. That sounded funny to me and I must admit I was highly questioning her response in my mind. I thanked her for the information and after hanging-up the phone started thinking about all the things she had told me. I remembered that I had in-fact filled the tank a little earlier in the afternoon. I went out to the 4 Runner and started it and sure enough the lights all came on and didn't go off. I figured checking the gas cap wasn't a big deal so I did, with no real hope of it fixing the problem. I took the cap off and back on making sure I heard a click or two. I tried starting it again and be darned if the lights didn't go out! The next day I rode down to the dealership and personally thanked her. She took a few minutes and explained to me why it happened. Cool huh? On the way out, I stopped by and looked at a couple of FJs. I ended up trading for one. That happened 2 weeks ago. I love my new FJ!
 
#35 ·
Is there any Toyota Techs or anybody on this forum have any knowledge expierience that can explain why a loose gas cap, defective catalytic converter has anything to do with the four braking sensor lights? Wouldn't these issue not related to the BRAKING system trip the dash ENGINE sensor?

I thought the FJ has a separate ECU for the brake system and that controls the ABS, VSC, TRAC, SKID control system?

Anybody know if there is a way to bypass or ground the Abs wheel speed sensors to test if they are functioning?

All my lights are on after I changed out my entire front brake suspension bearings and hubs and I'm not sure if these codes have to be manually cleared?
 
#41 ·
All 4 lights come on when the ecu detects any problem, from speed sensors to misfiring, loose gas cap to bad cats etc. It disables the computer controlled features like abs, traction control and atrac in case the problem could cause them to behave erratically and cause an accident. Having all 4 lights on, as opposed to just the CEL is harder to ignore and more likely to get the owner to the shop to get whatever caused the problem, big or small, fixed.
 
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