SCRATCH REPAIR: Wetsanding step-by-step

[Diesel1]

To read the original full thread and post questions/comments on this topic, please go to Scratch Repair - WETSANDING DIY



I posted a reply trying to help another memeber fix a chip in his new SANDSTORM. I had several requests to post a thread regarding the process so it can be searched in the future.....so here it is. I am not a pro, just love detailing my vehicles. And when I finally get my FJ, which should be soon as the G has been sold, I will keep it sparkling clean.........until I get it dirty!

Process:

1. Confirm that scratch is too deep to be polished out (If your finger nails gets caught in it, it is too deep.

2. I would then clay the area and follow up with rubbin alcohol over the scratch to remove any possible wax or contaminates the clay may have missed. When you clay, be sure to do an area larger then the scratch. If you have a PC for polishing, I would clay a 1' x 1' area. If you are going to polish by hand, you can clay maybe 4" or so all around the scratch. Polishing by hand will be a chore!

3. After alcohol has evaporated, use a match stick or toothpick, or fine fine paint brush (Not the one included with the T/U paint) and fill in the scratch. The less you can put into the scratch the better. Try to do several light fills as opposed to one thick one. Continue filling until the T/U paint is just slightly above the level of the factory paint. Allow a few days to dry. One day will probably be enough, but IMHO the more the better.

4. Soak one sheet of 2000 grit, one of 2500 and one sheet of 3000 Grit wet/dry sandpaper (Unigrit preferred) in a small bucket of water with a drop or 2 of car wash soap. Allow to soak for at least 20-30 minutes (Some let it soak overnight). During this time, prepare a spray bottle of water mixed with a few drops of car wash soap. The soap adds to the lubricity.

5. Start with 3000 grit wrapped around a sanding block or even a high density foam pad would work. The idea is that you want uniform pressure across the entire sanding surface. Using your hand will yield in waves cauise by the surface variations in your fingers/hand. I bought a 3M rubber sanding squegee that was like $1 or $2. It is about the size of a credit card and as thick as maybe 1/8" or so.

6. Use your spray bottle to spray the area you are about to sand. The more water the better. Using the 3000 grit around the squegee, sand the t/u paint in one direction. I believe I tried focusing just on the t/u paint first until it got close to level with the factory paint. Once it was close, I sanded perpendicular to the scratch. Be sure to constantly dip into the soaking bucket and continuously spray the area you are sanding. KEEP IT WET!!!

7. If 3000 grit is not leveling enough, move to 2500 or 2000 to level and then 3000 grit to finish. ALWAYS finish with the highest grit possible. This makes polishing SOOOOOOOOOOOOO much easier. If you are polishing by hand, you may want to see if they have 3500 or 4000 grit.

8. You'll be able to see when the paint is level because the sanded/dull area will be uniform.

9. CHECK THE PROGRESS OFTEN!!! To check the progress, you want to dry the area with a MF towel and inspect. DO NOT GO TOOOOOOO FAR!!! There comes a point where you may have to settle on it not being perfect. Once the surface is flat and uniform, you are done!

10. Now you will need your polishes. By hand, I believe Meguires Scratch X works well to remove 3000 grit sanding marks. By machine, use a coarse polish with a polishing pad and follow up with a fine polish and finsihing pad! I normally go right for the Menzerna PG on a cutting pad, then Menzerna Intense Polish on a polishing pad....then Final PolishII on a finishing pad. I recently invested in Menzerna SIP and PO106FF polishes which is all that is needed for this, but may be pricey for those of you that don't do a lot of detailing.

11. Seal with your favorite wax or sealant!

Pictures below:

I fixed a nice gash on my fender! here are some pics. Unfortunately no before's of the scratch before I touched it up.

Post Touch Up - Pre Wet Sanding





During Wetsanding - Used Meguires UNIGRIT wet/dry - 2000 grit followed by 3000 grit





After 3000K and polishing with Cyclo and Menzerna polishes (IP followed by FPII)

[Diesel1]

joie2569 previously said:

Looks and sounds as if you know what you are doing, which I do not. My FJ was parked near a log cabin being constructed. Polyurethane mist found its way to my paint. You cannot see it but you absolutely can feel it. Do you have any ideas on how to safely remove it without damaging the paint? Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Detailers clay is what you need! If for some reason the clay doesn't remove it, a good polishing certainly should. I do have faith that the clay should work. I would start off trying an over the counter clay. IMHO, CLAY MAGIC is the way to go, I have tried others and they never worked as good. It is very easy to use. If that doesn't work, you can try ordering a clay online for medium grit. This should remove the overspray, but it may also induce micromarring on your paint. After using a medium clay (Clay magic in the store is fine clay), you will definately need to polish her. If you like keeping your rig clean when not out getting dirty, I would invest in a PC for a novice. You can't screw anything up with it.

To use clay, simply wash your vehicle as normal. Take the clay bar and rip it in half. Store one half in a safe spot or the container it came it. The other half you will use. If at any point you drop the clay THROW IT AWAY. It will pick up rocks and debris from the ground which will scratch the hell out of your paint!

Some people use a quick detailer that comes with most clay bars for lube others use a few drops of soap with water for lube. I used to use the QD, now I use the soap n water in a spray bottle.

Wash vehicle

If using soap and water, no need to dry, if using QD...dry vehicle.

Spray lubricant liberally over a 2' x 2' area

Flatten clay to a pancake and lightly go over the entire area. You will hear and feel the clay running over contaminants. Once you feel it has gone smooth, move to next area. DO NOT USE ELBOW GREASE.

Every few sections, roll the clay into a ball, knead, and flatten again.

WASH vehicle with clean water n soap after claying. Dry, polish, seal with wax.

If you need links for where to purchase detailing supplies, I have 3-4 that I regularly buy from that are great!

[Diesel1]

joie2569 previously said:

Thanks for the response..I have been devastated. I would appreciate those links. What other vehicle could you buy and have an unlimited resource such as the forum!

Below are links to the places I have purchased my detailing equipment from. MODS, if this violates any rules, please feel free to delete. If this does get deleted, I will send links via PM to anyone who would like a starting point for shopping.

Please note that I have a bit of a sickness when it comes to detailing supplies. To me it's like therapy.

For the best MF's for glass and great information regarding how to properly maintain your vehicle:

Custom formulated car wax, paint sealant, polish, compound, car accessory, car care tips and auto detailing. (Detailing in Mineola and I believe they ship orders from Cali) They are a high end detailing shop and offer the finest in supplies. The glass MF's are a great buy and work like no other!

For the best MF's at the best prices. They also offer polishes, pads, machines etc but be aware that since they are in Hawaii, many chemicals can not be shipped to the mainland. Great products, great prices. To start out, I would get at least 1 waffle weave for drying (Large size), 3-5 of the fluffiest softest MF's for quick detailing, and 4-6 of the white MF's with a bit of a shorter nap for removing polishes and waxes/sealants! I would also grab a few of the cheapest MF's for things like door jambs and keep one in the truck for bird droppings.
Aloha & Welcome to Our Oasis for All Your Auto Detailing Supplies & Accessories

For polishes, pads, etc stateside: Great guy, great customer service and ships within 2 seconds of you submitting your order. They are located in Michigan and I am in NY. I get my orders with 2 days!

Also, a great site for polishes, including Menzerna: Great customer service as well and super fast shipping.

Auto Detailing and Car Cleaning Products, Tools, and Tutorials - Detailed Image
www.danase.com

For the 2 websites above, feel free to bounce questions off of the owners, they respond quickly and are a great help!

Polish Reco's: If you are into it and will use it often, the go to setup would Menzerna SIP and 106FF. This would handle everything for 90% of the people out there. Expensive, but great polishes.

For a lower investment: Menzerna IP and FPII or Blackfire compound and polish (If you have really bad, dull faded, neglected paint with severe scratches, you may need Menzerna Powergloss.

I have never used them before, but if you need to work in the sun, many people on teh detailing forums swear by Poorboys products too. I can not not vouch for them as I have never tried them.

For those living in apartments, without hose access, or for washing during winter months, you may want to pick up a gallon of Optimum No Rinse. No rinsing needed. You put the required amount in a bucket, fill that with water and wash as normal one section at a time. You dry immediately with a MF waffle weave. You will need at least 2 Waffle Weaves and a few other MF's with this process, but it does work and cleans the vehicle without marring the paint. For extra dirty vehicles, you can put a QD dilution into a spray bottle and spray the area first, then wash as normal.

The final website which has pretty much everything, located in FLA and decent customer service etc (Although it is a bigger operation and not quite as "warm")

We Are Car Care ! Car Wax - Car Polish - Auto Detailing Supplies & Car Accessories or com....can't remember.