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Stuck in 4WD

12K views 27 replies 15 participants last post by  westtexas86004 
#1 ·
Yes most likely operator error, the thing is I am the single owner of my FJ got it brand new and I have never had this problem before. I have always been easily able to shift in and out of 4WD relatively easy. Well I made the mistake of trying to shift right in the middle of traffic in the left hand lane right before I came to a stop at a stop light and OMG I was totally stuck the car would not move, I could not shift it back into 4WD, 2WD nothing. It had gone into that what showed up as AT/P groove and would not come out. Now I have used that before also when I accidentally ended up in a ditch and was able to drive right out. Was able to shift back no problem so why I got hung up I have no clue. I also didn't know what to do but put on my caution lights. I got out my manual but it was difficult to read and process anything in that high tension situation, Finally a lady stopped. She pulled her car in front of me first she asked if it could be pushed and I told her how heavy it was. She climbed in the passenger seat and worked the gear shift with both hands while we tried different things, Finally by putting it in neutral she shoved it back into 4WD and I was finally free able to drive but now I'm scared to death to try to put it in 2WD again for fear the same thing will happen. I have an automatic 2008 FJ. What am I doing wrong besides driving a car that suddenly it seems I am unable of operating?
 
#2 · (Edited)
Did you put it right into 4Lo?
To put it into and out of 4Lo you need to be in neutral and at FULL STOP (as mentioned below by hiflyerx... I forgot about mentioning that important detail, thx hiflyerx)

To simply go from 2Hi to 4Hi, you just pull firmly back on the 4wd shifter. Firm and swift. If it doesn't respond right away try easing off the gas, perhaps even pressing the brakes... and then give it a little bit of gas. Just basically shift the weight of the vehicle. This can be done while moving. Pushing it back into 2Hi and then back into 4Hi may also be required. This can be done a few times to make the electronic switches respond better if it doesn't get done often.

This will get easier with use as well.

:cheers:
 
#3 ·
it is shift "on-the-fly" into 4High & back into 2wd and yes I have done it after merging onto the highway at speeds

Find a gravel / snowy surface to play on and shift between 2wd and 4High parked and at slower speeds. There shouldn't be any problem at all

If there continues to be a problem, perhaps take it into a shop.

Again, going into 4 low requires a FULL STOP and the transmission into neutral to get into and out of. Altho my wife managed it once in an old tacoma and I have no idea how... Was banned from driving that tacoma shortly there after ;)
 
#4 ·
I just hope you are not driving an A/T in 4Hi on dry pavement....
 
#11 ·
IMHO your statement needs some clarification, trying not to offend Cholerabob but.....

If you are driving in 4High on dry pavement and not making sharp turns no harm is done. Sharp turns is the problem.

Yes there are some what ifs here but nobody should be afraid to use 4Hi on dry pavement. That dry pavement can turn into ice/snow covered pavement and then back into dry all within a couple hundred of feet.
 
#6 ·
Julie try not to be nervous about the shifting between 2wd and 4hi you cannot do any damage, it is easiest to shift while driving normally, just at the moment you want to move the transfer shifter just lift off the gas for a second to relax the drive line and pull or push the shifter. You don't need to slow down to a crawl or stop, in fact the shifting is not as smooth or easy if stopped. As has been said you want to avoid driving in 4wd on dry hard surfaces. If you find your having a difficult time shifting between 2 and 4wd while driving then the truck needs to go back to the dealer.
 
#7 ·
Oh my golly I have so much trouble with the cruise control. Getting it set etc,
I'm starting to see a trend here Julie. Perhaps you could find a more experienced local friend to take you for a drive and go over some basics... Most guys love to help out...

Swallow the pride and reach out to a friend. Would definitely reduce some of your driving stresses.
Just saying.

:cheers:
 
#8 · (Edited)
^^^^ interesting... You know who I blame for most of this?? The dealer that sold the FJ,
Useless unskilled sales people that have zero knowledge about the vehicle, happy to take your cash even more happy to see your tail lights.. disappear. When you take delivery of a new vehicle two people should spend time with the new owner, one that can and does go over All operation of the vehicle and someone from service to go over the basics, check oil here, wiper fluid here, jack here. Winterpeg has a good idea have a friend go for a good drive and if that is not possible go back to the dealer and make them show you what they should have before they gave you the keys.
That said J we are here to help don't stop asking your questions.
 
#9 · (Edited)
Howdy I am thinking you pulled a little to hard and got it in between 4hi and 4 lo in the neutral zone. This would be one of the reasons you had to put the gear shift into neutral and it worked. You should have no problem shifting between 4H and 2WD back and forth.

I am sure you know this but to go into 4Lo you need to stop put gear shift in neutral and shift it to 4Lo. put gear shift in gear and away you go. Reverse it to come out of 4LO. There is a spot in between 4Hi and and 4lo which puts the transfer case in neutral and the FJ will not move at all but the engine will rev. I think you found it.

Not sure of your location but I am near Cleveland OH if you want someone to show you a few pointers.
 
#12 ·
I understand I have the auto. What I think happened is she pulled it back into 4Hi and didn't stop and went to the neutral spot to the right by mistake. I have done it when I first test drove mine. It was near dark and I could not see the shift pattern to see where 4H or 4L was. I figured out what I did and had to go to neutral to shift out of it.

Yes we need to know a little more before we can make an intelligent answer.
 
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#14 · (Edited)
Keep in mind, my 2010 TTSE 4X4 AuTo Trans had a fault in the first year or more, where the syncro gear for the transfer case had problems. I could not shift on the fly at any speed 2h to 4h.

I don't think I wheeled it much and do not remember an unholy blunder that could have caused that to happen. A little lite grinding of the gear tips once the first few days of new ownership understanding the 4L neutral and stopped thing.

Other than that I would just try to get 10 miles of 4X4 a month like the manual recommended. Just to keep everything exercised and lubricated. I would at first, just try to get any 10 miles in 4H, ignorantly driving on dry pavement around town (1 or 2 times maybe 3) then I gleamed somewhere that you should only drive it 4x4 on a surface that has some give and slip. Even though they are geared to work in unison, that even the slightest difference in tire diameter, tire pressure, forgot to rotate or the 5 wheel rotation program. The difference will have you either stretching or squishing your rig a little bit if the tires don't have the ability to slip a bit. Not to mention the extra wear on the tires if indeed they are slipping on sandpaper.

Where'd the OP go? No replies?... guess she found someone more interesting to talk to. Not the first time.
 
#23 ·
Where'd the OP go? No replies?... guess she found someone more interesting to talk to. Not the first time.
One of those one post wonders :D
 
#17 ·
there is absolutely no effort made by the dealer to provide even the most basic instruction
Thats not true! The saleslady for my 2014 took alot of time to help me pair my cellphone with the stereo, even telling me that the thingamajiggy in the floor beside the gearshifty was a helper antenna to make the stereo receive the cell reception better: keep the thingamajiggy in 2 high for when you leave your cellphone on the dash, but if you move the cellphone to the floor console holder hole move the antenna to 4 low (more sensitive reception); or if you get no reception while the cellphone is on the dash then put the thingamajiggy antenna booster to 4H.

I'll bet Toyota gives their sales staff years of learnin on all their cars! It's like talkin to a perfesser of motorology!
 
#19 ·
A few words about part time 4X4 systems and driving on hard dry surfaces.

In a part time 4 wheel drive system, like the one the Automatic FJ uses, the front end differential gear ratio is geared to outrun the rear end.This is because the front end has to take a longer track than the rear end when turning.

Driving in a straight line on a hard dry surface places the driveline under tremendous pressure as the front end tries to run away from the read end. To see how much pressure try backing up a short distance in the same conditions and you will feel the FJ hump up as the front end tries to drive the front end past the rear end.

Under those conditions and given enough time something has to give. It will most likely be the expensive parts in the transfer case or one of the differentials.

That said, driving across short lengths of dry areas between slick areas is not likely to result in damage.
 
#20 · (Edited)
In a part time 4 wheel drive system, like the one the Automatic FJ uses, the front end differential gear ratio is geared to outrun the rear end.This is because the front end has to take a longer track than the rear end when turning.
I don't believe this is correct; in all 4WD Toyotas the gear ratios in the front and rear differentials are identical.

If you have information from an authoritative source supporting your statement, please post a link.

You may be thinking about 4WD agricultural tractors, always driven at very low speed and on soft surfaces, where there may be an intentional slight difference in effective final drive ratio (combination of differential gear ratio and tire circumference) to have the front wheels turning very slightly faster than the rears to improve steering control.

Or, you may be thinking of older domestic part-time 4WD systems that used front and rear axles from different sources (like a GM rear axle plus Dana front axle) that had very slightly different numerical ratios (like 4.10 vs 4.11). This tiny ratiometric difference was undetectable when driving on soft or loose surfaces, but would have likely caused drivetrain binding if used for a prolonged period on high traction surfaces (paved road).

FJ differential ratios (8" diffs, '07-'09, haven't been able to confirm exact ratios on the '10 and later 8.2" diffs):
AT: 3.727:1
MT: 3.909:1
 
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