To read the original full thread and post questions/comments on this topic, please go to HOW TO: replace a inner tie rod end
I don't know if this has been put up here before.This is the write up of my third inner replacement. First one i broke in 'arf, the second and this one were opposite sides of the vehicle and both had hugely excessive play. This side had probably about 1/2inch or so and every time I hit a bump or curb my steering would feel loose. I was going to do it last year but just kept dealing with it coz i was lazy, but eventually got sick of the 1/2 inch movement in my LHS front tyre.
SO here goes.
I did this on a lift, but the other times i have done it was on the ground. It does make it easier to bend the lock washer tabs over on the lift, but it is possible without.
Tools
You need
14mm Wrench
19mm wrench
22mm Wrench
Pliers
36mm Wrench/Pipe Wrench/Multi grips (any of these will work)
Hammer
Assorted punches - I use one that is 1 foot long and a shorter one.
Paint pen of some description
Step one, turn the wheel full lock to the side you are replacing, and remove the boot. If you have the tools you can keep the large clamp for reuse, i tend to just break it with a long flat blade and zip tie it back on when i am done. (chances are I'll just be replacing the inner again in the next year or so lol) Also undo the small clamp and slide the boot down the shaft.
Step two, remove the split pin from the castle nut on the tie rod ball joint, and then loosen the castle nut.
I personally like the quickness of removing the ball joint form the knuckle this way - leave the nut on only a couple of threads, grab a hammer and hit the knuckle section between the ball joint a couple of times, it will jar the ball joint loose. I do this anytime i have a similar ball joint and never had any problems, provided your a good shot with the hammer. If not, i recommend using a fork or ball joint remover (and if your that way inclined, make sure you have one)
At this stage you can remove the outer tie rod end (the bit with the ball joint) as you will most likely need it on the new inner section. With the paint pen, mark a line on both the inner and outer sections so you can count how many turns you unwind the outer so you can put it back on correctly later on without affecting your wheel alignment. After you have marked it, you can either hold the outer tie rod end with a 19mm wrench (there is a flat section for it) or the inner tie rod end with a 14mm wrench and undo the center 22mm jam nut. This will then allow you to spin the outer tie rod end off. Remember to count the turns!
Step three, Fold the tabs on the lock-washer over so you the Inner tie rod ball joint is unrestricted.
Step four, Unscrew the inner ball joint with your choice of tool (36mm wrench, pipe wrench, multi-grips). Undo it all the way and you will have a inner tie rod in your hands.
Refit is the reverse of removal, remembering the locktite on the threads. The lock tab for the inner ball joint can be a real PITA to kick over, but if you take your time you'll figure it out (normally you can fold one side over from underneath, and the other from through the little "window" at the frame)
You will need the boot and the 22mm lock nut from the old inner end.
Wind the outer tie rod end the same amount of turns as you previously recorded and do it all up nice and snug (remember this is YOUR steering, its kinda important)
NEW split pin on the tie rod ball join and your all set to go, and now you have a trail spare (assuming you just replaced your old one because it had excessive play and wasn't actually snapped in half)
As usual, if you royally screw up somehow, you have no-one but yourself to blame.
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