Wiring up new KC 130w Daylighters; Need help in wiring.

[dangerisFJ]

Hi Guys,, Ok, here's the deal. I bought 2 sets of 130w Daylighters and will be mounting it on a roof bar. I did a search on how to run the wires and found the Gobi pdf that explains how to run the wires down the sides of the truck. As for hiding the wires on the top, well I guess I'll cross that bridge sooner than later. I'm most likely going to wire the lights in series, run all the positive wires of the lights to one positive wire and ground the others directly to the bar. I also intend of getting one of those OEM fog light switches. HOWEVER, my main concern is this. How do I wire everything up? Will I need a bigger relay to handle the total wattages of the lights. I believe the KCs come only with a 30amp relay. Will this be enough to handle 4 lights? Surely someone has done this before on this or other forums. Any help will be appreciated. Thanks in advanced guys!

[Ridge111]

4 lights in parallel @ 130W each = 520W

Current = Power/Voltage, or I = P/E
I = 520W/12V
I = 43.3A

You're going to need a bigger relay. Or you can use two relays and put one pair of lights on each. You would still only need one switch to activate both relays at the same time. That is probably the better way to go, and you already have the relays.

[dangerisFJ]

Thanks Ridge111. Hopefully everything will go well and I won't smell burning wires.

[Ridge111]

dangerisFJ previously said:

Thanks Ridge111. Hopefully everything will go well and I won't smell burning wires.

Insert disclaimer here...

[dangerisFJ]

Ridge111 previously said:

4 lights in parallel @ 130W each = 520W

Current = Power/Voltage, or I = P/E
I = 520W/12V
I = 43.3A

You're going to need a bigger relay. Or you can use two relays and put one pair of lights on each. You would still only need one switch to activate both relays at the same time. That is probably the better way to go, and you already have the relays.

Ok Ridge, I started the install of the lights today. Got the light bar installed and the wires ran. I ran a 16g multi strand wire for the ground for all the lights to share. I also ran/extended the hot wires for each of the lights. 4 total, with the ground wire, that's 5. I was going to ground the lights right to the bar however because of the powder coating, it wasn't making a good contact...That's why I ran a new ground. Now, from the 2 wire harness relay, there's a green wire (2 total) that I need to route into the cab. They will be connected to Pin#2 on the FJ switch. According to every post that I've read on these switches, the white wire, that has a inline 3amp fuse,(which I'm suppose to connect to the Hi/Lo bean or battery) is suppose to connect to both Pin#1 and #3. Is that correct? If not, where would the white wire connect to and to make sure that the switch illuminates when I put the lights on, where does' Pin#3 connect to? and of course, Pin#4 is the ground.

I will be finishing the install tomorrow as today I simply ran out of of time and it's cold as heck out there. As I was taking off the A-Pillar exterior cover, all 5 freakin' clips broke and when I went to the dealership, they didn't have any in stock and that they needed to be ordered. Just great!

For installing the switch, I know that there's a slight mod that I have to do but not sure where. Can someone help me out and clarify for me what I need to hook these wires to and what exactly I have to cut or shave down on the switch for it to work in the console area. Thanks in advance guys!

[White Rim]

16 gauge is really way too thin for 45 amps for the ground return. If you are using just one ground return it should be 10 gauge or better.

Alternately you could run separate return grounds for each pair; 14 ga would be ok for 22 amps but 12 gauge would be better

[dangerisFJ]

White Rim previously said:

16 gauge is really way too thin for 45 amps for the ground return. If you are using just one ground return it should be 10 gauge or better.

Alternately you could run separate return grounds for each pair; 14 ga would be ok for 22 amps but 12 gauge would be better

OK,. I replaced the 16g multi-strand wire with a 10g multi strand as per WhiteRim's suggestion. I have it almost done now, I have the wires that need to be ran in the cab. With that being said, I have the power from the KC relay to Pin#2 of the taco switch. I also have another wire (white) that is connected to Pin#1&3 that goes from the cab out into the engine bay. That white wire has a 3amp inline fuse on it. On the instructions that would be 12v in and switch illumination respectfully. So I gather that this wire needs to be spliced into the park lights or battery. Is that correct? Where is the best place to do this? Should I just attach it to the marker light or is there a place in the fuse box to do this? (fuse box that's in the engine bay) Would someone out there please lend me some guidance.

[TCao]

dangerisFJ previously said:

....So I gather that this wire needs to be spliced into the park lights or battery. Is that correct? Where is the best place to do this? Should I just attach it to the marker light or is there a place in the fuse box to do this? (fuse box that's in the engine bay) Would someone out there please lend me some guidance.

OK. I spliced directly into the left parking light which should be the green wire. The wiring for the front parking lights are very short so take your time. You'd need to remove the bulb socket from the parking light housing to have access to the wiring. The wire should be connected to pin 1 and 3 of the Toyota (tacoma) swith. On the switch modification, if you look on the side where the switch locking tab is on, there are two thin rails on the housing approximately .06" high. You need to shave those down flush to the switch housing. HTH.

[dangerisFJ]

TCao previously said:

OK. I spliced directly into the left parking light which should be the green wire. The wiring for the front parking lights are very short so take your time. You'd need to remove the bulb socket from the parking light housing to have access to the wiring. The wire should be connected to pin 1 and 3 of the Toyota (tacoma) swith. On the switch modification, if you look on the side where the switch locking tab is on, there are two thin rails on the housing approximately .06" high. You need to shave those down flush to the switch housing. HTH.

Thanks TCao,

Already shaved down the rails, used a very sharp chisel and took those babies off. Switch slides in perfectly.

As for the wiring, starting from the switch, on Pin#1&3, I connect those two pigtails to the white wire that will route from the cab into the engine bay and connect those up to the green wire of the left marker light. Is that right? I figured I'd have to take out the bulb socket form the lens and I was already anticipating the problems of how I was going to connect it.

[TCao]

dangerisFJ previously said:

...

As for the wiring, starting from the switch, on Pin#1&3, I connect those two pigtails to the white wire that will route from the cab into the engine bay and connect those up to the green wire of the left marker light. Is that right? ...

Yep.