I bought a pair of kc hi-lites the other day and also I purchased the tuffy light bar which should be here any day now. I went ahead and started the wiring process so it'll be ready to go when it gets here, hence why it's called part 1. Hopefully this helps somebody, and if somebody else already beat me to this, my apologies.
*notes*
- I didn't drill any holes to accomplish this, and it looks like a clean setup thus far.
- I did remove 1 bolt from the roof rack, and without the one bolt, it still feels incredibly sturdy, so I'm not at all concerned with the integrity of it holding up.
- Of course, your mileage may vary.
- I'm not a mechanic, just a bored software engineer who likes to take apart things, so if you break your FJ, I can't be held responsible
The tools I used. Pretty simple:
First thing I did was loosen all the bolts to the roof rack considerably. I then removed the two bolts holding in the driver side front.
Second, I removed the rubber padding on the driver side front, and I punctured a small hole in it. Enough for my wire to fit through.
I took my wire and pushed it through the bottom of the pad, and then up the small hole where the rubber pad clips into and then up to the first hole you see( I had to remove the plastic piece that was occupying the hole)
After threading the wire through, I was able to see the end of the wire and pull it through it's hole. I gently pulled it until I had more than an adequate amount of wire left over in case of boo boo's when I installed the lights.
Now, At this point, the wire is through, the rubber footing was back on. You then need to remove the A piller cover by removing the rubber caps from the handle, then removing the screws holding it in place. I found working it from top to bottom was the easiest. Gently applying pressure as you work your way down, there are two places where it's fastened to the metal. I was able to gently remove the A piller and reuse the bolts with no harm done.
It was now time to thread the wire. This part takes a bit of patience and a little luck, but I managed(a couple times actually due to a few errors
) In the photo below, I used the forward most hole, however, I actually ended up using the back hole. For whatever reason it seemed to work every time I threaded it. I shoved as much of it as I could and then I would take a peek(see the next photo).
If you gently peal back the rubber piece holding on the headliner, it'll reveal not only the airbag, but hopefully the wire you just threaded through. Again, it takes a bit of patience and luck, but here is how I pealed mine back:
This photo is a little over the top, but I was just showing how it'll look when you thread the wire through. You may have to try the threading process a few times, but eventually it'll come down. Also, I noticed on my headliner, being very gentle, I would pull it down, and I could go easily a half inch without damaging it. It seemed very forgiving, but again, use common sense
I went ahead and found the wire and pulled it through. Now, you can see that it's wrapped around the airbag, which at this point is ok. You can pull the wire all the way through, towards the front of the vehicle and pull it up towards the front underneath the airbag without wrapping the wire around it.(see next photo).
This isn't the greatest of photos, but the tip of my cable is behind the white cable harness ... just dangling. The rest of the slack is hanging out side of the car, waiting to be gently pulled through:
For some reason my photos skipped a step! On the left hand side of the A piller, you can see straight down to the floor/gas pedals. At this point you can just fish the wire down to the floor. I used a black hose concealer that you can pick up at walmart for 4 bucks. just to make sure I wasn't touching other wires:
There is a panel you can remove that will give you access to your fuse box. In doing so, you can fish your wire through there, and up to your switch location, I gently squeezed the empty button placeholders until they both popped out:
I then measured and cut a hole the same diameter of the switch that came with the lights, used clear silicon to hold it into place, then put them back into place. I cut the hole for both, because I plan on doing this with the second set of lights. I actually cut the wire in half and did this exact same wiring for both.
/ WPOK492 
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