I got this off eBay from Kazakhstan. It was quite a bit of money for something on the other side of the planet, but I had seen quite of few of these on facebook from that community.
Hole saw 3.5 inch (89 mm)
Silicone (I used ‘The Right Stuff’)
3 inch PVC fitting (2010+)
Basic metric socket set
There is quite a bit of test fitting involved. Clearances are tight, so any variation in snorkel or truck production will most likely require trimming. When in doubt, test fit!
It is necessary to remove the plastic insert on the passenger side. In order to do this we have to remove quite a bit to get this out and get the new ‘cowl box’ in there.
The entire cowl area of the hood needs to be removed, along with the two edge trim pieces. Most of this will need to be reinstalled, so take care with the plastic clips.
First press in on the center of the plastic rivets. This allows them to be removed. Remove the two end caps. The rubber seal on my antenna tore a bit, if this happens don’t worry. It will be below the snorkel.
Next pull off the plastic trim around the wipers. It can be worked off over the wiper blades. Also pull off the black plastic vents. There is a hidden plastic rivet under one that will have to be removed to get the passenger side insert out. I was about to get the insert out before the cowl, but you will not be able to get the snorkel piece in there.
Pop the plastic caps off the wiper nuts. Then remove the nuts. Next, use a slim pulley remover or wiper blade removal tool to pull all 3 wipers. I used a sharpie to mark how they went on the stud.
Next pull off the metal cowl. Be careful with the windshield seal.
A shot of everything removed.
An interesting note, see this little hole in the background. This is what the stock air system was (mostly) sucking air through. Not a lot of area!
There was some metal trimming necessary to get mine to fit.
The passenger side of the cowl needed to have the metal tabs removed. I just bent it back and forth until it broke off. Touch up the bare metal afterwards.
Part of the hood hinge had to be trimmed on mine to clear the cowl box. I actually cut away more than was needed. I would recommend cutting where the red line is in the photo. Again, be sure to seal up the bare metal afterwards to minimize rust.
Put the cowl box in and test the fitment. At first it did not look close for me, but shift it around until it lines up. The tab for the bolt can also bend (slightly). I went with some stainless hardware I had in the garage over the bolts that were included with the kit.
Once the box is bolted down slowly close the hood. I found it was making contact with the underside ‘skeleton’ of the hood. I wacked it a couple of times with a dead blow hammer to clearance it.
Peel off the adhesive and put on the hood weather-strip.
Next is the main snorkel. Many test fittings will be necessary. Try not to tap it down until over the hexagonal connection too much as it will grab!
Fit the two bottom brackets for the snorkel that will receive the lower bolts. I thought my kit was missing a bracket, so I had to take some time to make another. There is only supposed to be one though (Offroad Garage Snorkel Installation
Once this bolt lines up with the snorkel, bolt it to the fender.
This bracket drove me bonkers. I think it would work fine with an aftermarket rack, but it was not great for the stock one. I pounded it flat and worked with it from there. I ended up going in over the stock rack with slightly longer bolts, bushings, and a bunch of silicone to fill up the cavities around the bolts. Apparently it works if you go all the way under the stock mounting point.
Offroad Garage Snorkel Installation
I used silicone at the hexagonal connection. Probably not necessary to hold it on, but we want it to be water tight. Before you put the two side bolts in, screw in the antenna while you can still wiggle the assembly. After that tighten down the last 2 bolts on the side. Once again I used some stainless fasteners I had in the garage.
My snorkel did not touch the pillar or the vehicle roof. I put a bit of marine weather-stripping up there, so it looks like it touches in some of the photos.
At this point you can replace the cowl and wipers. May as well clean up those plastic pieces since you have them all out and accessible.
On a 2010+ the stock airbox will need to be modified. I suppose you could try to flip it around, but I was comfortable with modifying it as I have done it on other vehicles before. Remove the lower airbox. If I remember right 2 bolts inside, one outside.
Airbox removed and ready for modification.
Drill out the two little round thingies to remove the ‘immovable propeller’. Clean up this part a bit, then put in the round plug from the kit. I just used silicone to seal it up.
I purchased a 3 inch PVC ‘street elbow’ at the hardware store along with some JB weld. Yea, I know it is white, but it will not be seen once everything is connected.
Carefully plan and measure where you want this to go.
Remember the part inside the airbox is larger, so account for this with the sidewalls and where the bottom of the air filter element will rest. Use the hole saw to cut an opening that will face the cowl box of the snorkel.
Test fit the box and decide at what angle to mount the PVC. I used a sharpie to mark it up.
JB Weld the PVC to the airbox. I used a clamp and tennis ball to hold the PVC in place overnight.
Test fit the airbox. I trimmed a bit off this tab to make inserting the hose & clamp easier. I found that the PVC was almost a perfect line with the cowl box nozzle.
Next is the actual hose. On the left is what is provided with the kit. I had the hose on the right on hand, so I used that. This was leftover from another vehicle I did years ago. I know it was rated for under hood temperatures and resistance to oils. I think the kit one would have worked fine, I just wanted the straight walled one. I think it took 8 inches of hose.
It is easiest to get the hose onto the PVC outside of the truck as that is a slightly larger tube. Then put the assembly in and get the other end of the tube over the cowl box opening. I got the clamp on a bit crooked, but it is secure.
Bolt down the air box and replace the air filter. My air filter got squished a bit by the PVC, but everything still seals up.
Check to make sure no major parts or left over and all tools are accounted for.
Go for a drive. I did not notice any additional wind noise (I already had a lot) or loss of power. Visibility is good. The only part you can see from the driver’s side is a bit where the antenna goes.
Does it fit perfect? No, but stuff that was necessary to trim is not noticeable. The truck could be returned to a stock appearance if needed. The popular alternatives require a hole in the fender which is noticeable.
The hardware should be stainless at this price point & instructions would have been nice.
Looks are subjective, but I am pleased with the finished product.
The construction is very stout. Anything that hits this hard enough to break it would have probably took out your stock pillar piece and windshield.
With these instructions I think installation time would be around 4 hours for most folks.