Same thing happened to me, I just lock it manually now, no big deal, but if it'll be a 15$ part to fix it, I'd be interested as well...

 

Yea I figure for $15 for a universal unit it doesn't hurt to try...

 

Getting into the door will be the fun part... have you ever tried to replace the track on a door? Not a fun job. But, to save a couple hundred bucks... I would try.

 

If it were me, I'd snatch up the $15 actuator and give it a go. If it doesn't work, you know what does work, and if it does work you can drive it to your dealer and laugh in their faces.

And also brag about it here :cheers:

 

In my past experiences, I'd say go for it. Getting the door panel off is a piece of cake. I'd definitely try it.

 

I started having the same issue in the past month.

After reading this and some other threads I gave the actuator replacement a try. You can see my write-up linked below. The universal motor I ordered was not quite right, but I still got it fixed. $10 :cheers:


FJ Door lock fix.

 

I've installed a lift, front bumper, headunit, etc, but even that seems way over my head!

 

i take it you arent under warranty? i got my actuator replaced by toyota under my exteneded warranty. i posted this in a different thread about sticky lock syndrom:

mine did the exact same thing. by pressing the unlock/lock button tons of times you are just rocking the thing until it finally clicks over. watch the manual lock switch (or indicater) as you press the button. it will move and then be like uh uh, and just not do anything.

i just pulled out my invoice. part list price at my dealership was $331.66. net price listed is $311.66. labor was $61.20.

mine was all covered under warranty. having this information, i wouldnt pay a dime more than $400 to have it done. i didnt even look at the part because it was under warranty. but it shouldnt be difficult to do yourself. i bet you could find the part cheaper than 300 too.

 

Mine just went out yesterday... DAMN IT...

Has anyone found a replacement that wasn't $300?

 

darnit, mine went out 3 days ago... anyone?

 

junk yard im sure it will probably be the same part number across several Toyota cars.

 

Does any companies out there sell aftermarket toyota parts for our trucks?

 

I decided to tackle the job of repairing the door lock actuator. I would recommend this only if you feel comfortable after reviewing. This will take you a couple of hours but saving $500 is worth it!!

You need to make sure it is the actuator before tearing into it but that is simple to check out.

1 - Attempt to use the driver lock switch to lock or unlock. If the other locks operate correctly and yet the driver door lock will not, and then continue here, otherwise you most likely have a switch problem.

2 - If your checkout shows it to be the actuator, remove the door panel. (Great photos already in the forum along with how to).

3 - Unbolt the window track from the door (one 10mm bolt).

4 - Unplug the door lock actuator (top rear electrical connector) - just squeeze the lock tab and pull straight out.

5 - Remove the three Torx screws that hold the latch mechanism to the door.

6 - Gently remove the plastic (be careful not to tear), leave the adhesive on the door or plastic to reuse).

7 - Reaching through the door openings and pull the actuator straight down (there is a single rod that just slides out).

8 - The actuator will now come out, it will still be attached to the manual level by two cables.

9 - Open the door on the actuator with a thin small screwdriver and remove both cables

10 - There are 5 screws (labels 1 - 5) on the top. See photo. Remove all 5.

11 - Remove the large screw in the metal latch plate and a small screw on the back.

12 - The tricky part!! - pry open the 10-12 latches and remove the cover. You must also pry out the metal latch plate. It will pull out as the cover is pried up.

13 – Once you remove the cover, you will see the motor and electrical plug along with the rest of the mechanism.

14 – Remove the two screws on the electrical plug (see photo).

15 – Remove the motor, worm gear and electrical plug.

16 – You can now plug it back in to the harness on the door. Try your remote or have someone assist with the passenger door lock switch. Cycle the remote or switch and test the motor. Most likely it will work since you have moved the motor a slight amount.

17 – Cycle it 10 or so times. You will most likely have it no work on you, if you do, move the worm gear slightly and it will work again. You have confirmed the problem, the motor is intermittent.

18 – The cause is the brushed and commutator is corroded or has build-up on it. It must be cleaned.

19 – Gently lift the electrical tables from the motor using needle nose pliers. They will just lift straight up.

20 – With the motor separated, pry the two tabs out. This will take considerable force to bend the metal. (see pictures). A stout pair of needle nose pliers worked great for me.

21 - Once you have them both prier up, the end of the motor will pull straight back. Do not just yank it apart; there are two tiny motor brushes inside that you do not want them bent.

22 – You should now see the end of the motor and the two tiny brushes. They will be dark or black from the corrosion.

23 – You will need a set of jewelers files to gently remove the corrosion from the commutator.

24 – Take an exactor knife or small round file and clean the brushes as well.

25 – Reassemble the motor, this is tricky. Take a small tool to gently open the brushes as you slide the motor housing back together.

26 – Bend the motor casing tabs back in to hold the motor end to the housing. MAKE SURE IT IS TIGHT.

27 – Install the electrical plug back to the motor.

28 – Plug the motor in to the door harness and it should cycle with no more hang ups. You can perform this locking and unlocking by using the remote and hold the door sensor in so it will lock and unlock.

29 - If you have no problems, then you have the motor fixed!
30 – Install motor back into the housing. Use some white lithium grease on the worm gear.

31 – Put the cover back on the top AFTER making sure the cable connection is in the correct position. (This is IMPORTANT - otherwise the actuator will not cycle). Make sure all the latches catch.

32 – Install the 5 screws.

33 – Install the latch plate – install the large screw and the screw on the back.

34 – Reconnect the cables

35 – Test again by connecting the plug and cycle the remote. It should lock and unlock with no trouble. Disconnect the electrical.

36 – Reinstall taking care to slide the rod back into is hole on the back on the actuator.

37 – Install and tighten all three Torx screws.

38 – Install the door panel after plugging in the connections.

39 – Test everything out and you just saved $500!

 

So it's that easy? Because I feel like I really have no business digging into this one. My drivers side door will not lock with the key or FOB, only works manually by reaching over from the passenger side.

 

Thanks for taking and sharing the pictures.
The (high rev/torque) small motor is the same as the one I replaced on my
1998 Sienna's actuator assembly.

Its made by Mabuchi Motors
Part number FC -280PT-22125 (with brass collar installed)

Price: about $5 - $8

Source: eBay or

Mabuchi Door Lock Actuator Motor FC-280PT-22125

 

Had to take my 2010 into the dealership today for the same issue. What stinks is that they would not order the part in before looking at it. so now it will have to go back next week to be fixed.

 

My passenger door will not lock. Lock inside manually or with drivers switch, or even key in either door- it switches to unlock (click-click)!
Is this different than door actuator?
Rear and drivers doors work fine.

Spm

 

I had a very similar problem on my 02 tacoma and it was a tiny spring that broke on the latch. Rip the door panel off I suggest and check out what might be missing or is broken . I found my broken spring at the bottom of my door and found a matching one at ace. of course Toyota didn't sell just the spring !

 

I'll dig into tonite. I sure thought it was something electrical. Hopefully not.

Thanks !

Sean

 

I always assume the worst too but I bet you'll find something obviously wrong once you see the mechanism from the inside. Good luck!

 

I just attempted a fix on my passenger door using the Mabuchi motor that my son used on his 100 series Landcruiser. After following the instructions in sbragg000 post above, I got it all done. Except that my motor didn't match the one used in the landcruiser. The shaft that extends into the plastic worm gear was much longer...20mm vs about 10mm. Also, the original motor has a flattened shaft (half-round) that fits into the gear.

I tried using the shorter shaft motor, but it has started to buzz instead of opening the lock. So I went to ebay and searched for "Mabuchi long shaft" and found a seller that has several different mabuchi motors for sale at a cost of about $5 each. I'll have to file or grind a flat spot on the shaft, but I think that will work. Compared to the cost of a new actuator, which is $211 discounted, I'll try that.

Anyone else who tries this fix, it would be useful if you posted the specs of the motor, with respect to the length and configutaion of the shaft. My long shaft motor was the original from a very early 2007 FJ.

I'll post later to tell if the longer shaft solved the problem.

 

Success.

The mabuchi long shaft worked, and after filing it into a "half-round" shape, and grinding off just a little of the end of the shaft, I got the worm gear to fit on it in the same position as the original, and with no "slipping" of the shaft inside the plastic gear.

I had mucho problems getting the actuator assembly back in the door this time. I would STRONGLY recommend to anyone doing this that, when replacing the assembly, remove the little black circular hole cover on the inside of the door, above the latch, and near the door key cylinder, and use a torx bit to loosen the screw that holds the key lock assembly. It will not fall out. Then just pull the key cylinder out. Put it back in after you have the lock actuator assembly in place. If you don't do this, you have to fit the actuator assembly over the shaft that comes in from the keyhole, and I had real trouble doing that.

I also had trouble getting the actuator back together correctly. I thought I had it right, but there was a problem in my reassembly that kept it from working properly. On the top of the "clamshell" that comes off to reveal the inner workings there are two silver metal lever-type things that pivot and interact with each other. Depending on whether the actuator is in the locked or unlocked position, these levers in the top are either at one end of their travel or the other. You can figure out where the setting is by simply holding the gears on their axles and operating the mechanism by hand. It clicks back and forth between locked and unlocked, and it simply moves the "pusher" that actually unlocks the door away from the lever on the actual latch. Just make sure that the pivoting levers in the upper half of the shell are matched up properly with the lower half. If you spend some time at it, you'll see it clearly.

I do think that if you really value your time it might be a lot less trouble to just buy the assembly for $211 or so. I ended up spending a lot of time fiddling with this. It was $10 or so out-of-pocket, but a lot of hours. Of course, the next one will go a lot faster.

 

I too had this problem. Figured I would take a shot at fixing it myself before ordering the part.

It worked!

I order some of the small motors off ebay, used the original shaft and cooper wire in the new housing, and works like a champ now.

inside the door lock mechanism.

The motor separated

 

Sorry for the thread necromancy but I'm actually at the dealer now and getting told a load I think.

6 months ago my doors wouldn't lock using the FOB. I had both actuators replaced under warranty. Now the driver's side won't lock or unlock manually with the key [works fine with the fob and switch] and I'm being told that another part needs to be replaced for $600. Pretty sure the only part in the door that can go bad is the actuator. Can anyone shed any light on this?

 

I am having a tough time imagining what other part they could be referring to that would cost $600. What part did they mention?

I had this exact problem with my 100 LC when the actuator went out, so I am thinking this sure seems familiar. There just isn't that much more in the door that comes into play in this situation.

Tell us what they said needs to be replaced. That could help tremendously.

 

He definitely said actuator and he didn't know that they had replaced them a year ago when I mentioned it to him a second time. It seems like BS that these things go bad so quickly. He's checking with the extended warranty company to see if they can replace it again. I know one thing that I'm not paying a dime for this one.

 

Oh, I understand. I thought they said some other part failed.

In this case, I would raise #)$% as well. Either the part was defective or the installation was bad. They don't fail, ordinarily, that quickly. They are actually pretty bullet-proof.

I trust you are talking to the service manager. Generally, around here anyway, the parts are warranted for a year regardless of the vehicle warranty status.

I had the same thing happen with a door window motor. It failed a year after install and the vehicle was out of warranty and they replaced it with no issues really. They took the same position that you are taking and that was that the replacement part should last longer.

Good luck. I think you will get some relief on this one.