Well, I wanted to add my own $0.02 to help clear up any confusion about HID and DIY Projector assemblies for the FJ. There are numerous threads on the board outlining DIY EBay Projector kits, complete Anzo CCFL Halo assemblies, and the ever-popular DDM Tuning drop-in HID kits in the stock FJ reflector housings. While all these threads are informative, I wanted to add my own clear and concise summary of each of the HID options for the FJ and finally walk you through the complete retrofit on my FJ lights using a company called “TheRetrofitSource.com”
There are commonly 3 methods to convert the FJ headlights to HID…
1) [Easiest Install / Worst Lighting Control] DDM Tuning (or similar company) drop-in style H4 bulb and ballast kit. This kit is a very simple install but provides the worst light control.
The kit includes…
• 2x HID 35W or 55W ballasts
• 2x H4 HID bulbs that drop into the stock “reflector” style housing* (your choice of color)
• 1x Wiring Relay Harness that connects to the battery, to the ballasts, to the hi/low module in the harness, then plugs into the FJ factory 3-prong harness
• Double sided tape and tie straps to mount ballasts
Note: The HI BEAM of the HID bulb is controlled by a small mechanical actuator encased in the big, black plastic piece on the back of the HID H4 bulb that rotates the metal shield around the bulb to direct the light beam.
*The “reflector” housing refers to the shiny silver bowl that the stock halogen light bulb reflects light off of. The HID H4 bulb reflects light in this same manner as the OEM halogen bulb yet this light is so much brighter and only has a small metal shield around it to direct the light beam; doing a poor job at that. The inability to accurately control the light beam in the “reflector” style housing creates a flood or “spill” of light from the headlights that is blinding to oncoming drivers. There is no distinct “cutoff line” of light; rather it looks like someone is shining a really bright flashlight on the road. After running this setup for a couple months I caught the HID bug and decided to do things the “right way”…projectors
Light Scatter Pics:
2) [Harder Install / Better Control] Anzo Projectors with CCFL Halos.
This kit is slightly more difficult to install due to grill removal and headlight/blinker removal, but it is a complete plug and play unit that provides great light control and a distinct cutoff line. This is a complete drop-in projector* style housing that includes H9 bulbs, a relay with 1 red and 1 black wire to power the halo, then a plug that attaches to the FJ factory 3-prong harness. Note: The HI BEAM of the HID bulb is controlled by a small, spring loaded metal plate inside the projector lamp that moves down to expose more light from the H9 bulb. The bulb itself is NOT a dual filament like OEM halogens. *The “projector” housing controls the beam of light through a lens as it passes over a metal shield (this is what creates the “z” look of the cutoff line). It would be similar to covering the top half of a flashlight with a piece of paper to make a distinct line on a wall. Projectors assemblies are found on newer vehicles but DO NOT necessarily mean that a car has HID bulbs. Many new cars have projectors for low beams and a reflector “bowl” style assembly for hi beams. Projector assemblies make it easier to do HID drop-in bulb conversions (i.e DDM Tuning) due to the control of the light output. The Anzo CCFL Halo assemblies come with halogen H9 bulbs, but it is a very dim light output. I would highly recommend an HID Kit through a company like DDM Tuning to take true advantage of these assemblies. Also, the halos DO NOT produce enough driving light to be used on their own. They make unique looking DRL’s though!
3) [Hardest Install / Best Light Control] TheRetrofitSource.com complete HID retrofit kit with Morimoto Mini Stage III (D2S) Projectors.
This kit is the most difficult to install due to grill removal, headlight/blinker removal, and complete headlight disassembly; but it provides amazing light control and an unparalleled, razor sharp cutoff line. Don’t be scared to try this on your own!!!
This kit includes…
• 2x D2S Morimoto Mini bi-xenon Projectors w/ clear lenses (Low & High Beams)
• 2x HID ballasts (Morimoto, Denso, or Matsu****a)
• 1x Ballast test lead
• 2x D2S HID Lamps (Morimoto or Philips)
• 2x Shrouds of your choice (these shrouds cover the metal projector housing)
• 2x Projector Centric shroud spacers (these allow easy mounting of the shroud)
• 2x Angel Eye rings (optional and extra $)
• 2x metallic BIXENON bezel emblems
• 2x Alcohol prep pads for the HID bulbs
• 1x Plug n Play Bi-xenon Relay Harness (must specify H4 harness in order)
• 1x TheRetrofitSource.com decal
• 2-year worry free replacement warranty and SUPERB customer service
Pics of the kit…
If you have aftermarket ballasts you need these adapters…
Note: The HI BEAM of the HID bulb is controlled by a small, spring loaded metal plate inside the projector lamp that moves down to expose more light from the D2S bulb. The bulb itself is NOT a dual filament like OEM halogens. The high beams are activated by connecting the projector solenoid wires to the H4 wiring harness include in the kit; this harness also contains the factory 3 prong connector.
The projectors included in this kit are the “easiest” to retrofit because the threaded, tail end of theD2S projector unit fits through the stock H4 bulb opening, then 2 jam nuts tighten down on the OEM housing.** With this kit, you still maintain all the OEM vertical/horizontal adjustment via the stock adjustment wheels so you can position the cutoff line to your specifications. Also, the shrouds are not necessary, but they do make for a cleaner install look as they cover the “guts” of the projector assembly behind the lens. For example, the Anzo’s projector is hidden behind the huge black plastic “shroud” that allows you to just see the lens of the projector…the Anzo shroud also hides the “bowl” shape of lamp housing by bringing everything to the forefront. This shroud doesn’t affect the light output, nor does it eliminate glare or light spill; it’s just there for looks and to cover up the projector body.
**There is also a Mini Morimoto Stage III H1 kit available that “easily” fits the FJ housing (among other projectors that require more extensive modification). Please follow the link to see the differences between the Mini D2S and MH1 (Mini H1) kits: mini h1 or d2s in a 2011 Tundra