Chris, i am no engineer but i do an area that i think i could offer a suggestion.
Where the tire mount is, wouldn't it be much stronger to weld in a brace under that right angle to give more support? So it forms a triangle as opposed to an upside down L.
It probably wouldn't clear the edge of the tire rim (if I envision the spare tire superimposed on the diagrams above)...
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Dennis' Titanium: '08 Titanium 4X4; AT; LD; A-Trac; Uniden PC78XLT & K40 hatch-mounted whip; Toyota extra horn mod; no mud flaps; LT285/70/R17 Hankook Dynapro MT tars; 3" Lift (OME 884 front coils & N140S shocks, ToyTech Medium rear coils, OME N71E rear shocks); All-Phase rear diff skid; SCUBA breather mod; Steel sway bar collars; All-Pro rear shock skids and lower link skids; Digger upper and lower rear links; Rasta4x4 skids; Toytec 1" diff drop kit (as soon as I get around to spacing the skids); Metal Tech step sliders; Mini-Me OEM roof rack
might have to bump this to top of my mod list above the front Lucrum with winch, hoop and BFEs, skid plates, new shocks, new gears....especially if the Group Buy is substantive savings.
__________________ I have a high art, I hurt with cruelty those who would damage me.- Archilochus, 650BC
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she's a "Brick.......House"
08 FJC, Brick, Auto, Nitto Terra Grapplers (295), ATrac, Locker, Budbuilt sliders, ToyTec 3" lift
84 FJ-60, blue, body lift, BFG AT on oem steelies, Warn Hubs, mostly original
Chris, i am no engineer but i do an area that i think i could offer a suggestion.
Where the tire mount is, wouldn't it be much stronger to weld in a brace under that right angle to give more support? So it forms a triangle as opposed to an upside down L.
Thanks for the suggestion. Actually that joint of the carrier is quite strong. The structural properties of the metal are great enough that the tire would need to have about 18G's on it or another 1700 lbs before it would fail. The weak point that would go way before would be the spindle and that is why we chose to go with heavy duty rebuild able spindles as well. Worse case if a bearing ever wears out you just replace it for a few bucks and your good as new. Thanks!
Quote:
StHarris previously said:
Nicely done Chris!
A few questions:
It looks like the rear window access is not viable with this unit. Can you comment on that?
With the prototype on my FJ (same dimensions as production) with a 315 70 18 tire and the cargo rack, axe/shovel mount, etc. I can still open my window fine. I think if there is going to be any interference it will be from the hi-lift jack being installed. As far as the hi-lift goes we made the mounts so that they could be located in several different places on the unit, so when its done we will have to play with it and see. So far though I don't think there will be a problem with the window and if we do find one i will let you know.
When James gets the Expedition One rear bumper completed, will you make a fit kit for it?
Dont know, depends on the bumper and how many people buy it.
Any thought on putting rings/hooks on the cargo tray for attaching straps/cargo net to hold the contents down in the tray?
We have loops on the prototype but to be honest I never used them and instead always attach the straps to the tray and loop them over. To me this works better than loops that only provide you with one point to tie to. With the tray being a open design you can tie anywhere to it just fine.
I see you have a Jerry Can lock. Any thoughts on a locking system for the hi-Lift and/or shovel/ax?
Not sure if we are going to do the locks or not. Most of what I have seen on the trails tell me most guys buy bike chains etc. and make them themselves. Post up if you would do your own locks or want to buy them. Keep in mind the price for the locks would be around $50 for the hi-lift and $50 for the axe/shovel
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Bunch of stuff...pretty much just go to our website and you will know what and why I love LUCRUM. Redefining Off-Road Innovation www.lucrumind.com
Keep in mind the price for the locks would be around $50 for the hi-lift and $50 for the axe/shovel
With the way the Hi-Lift is getting mounted, wouldn't it be easy to just drill a hole in the stud, that goes through the holes in the bar of the jack, big enough to thread a lock through? Then once you slide the jack onto the mounting stud, you just attach the lock so they cannot slide the jack off.
Also, I would second the request for some sort of loops on the cargo tray to attach ropes, hooks, bungies, etc. Or simpler yet, how about drilling a couple of holes around the top edge every few inches?
Last, I have a stock bumper currently and would buy the fit kit for that, but would there be any problem with buyng a Warn fit kit later and retro-fitting it to mount on a Warn rear bumper when I get one?
I am very interested in how this all works out, but I am hesitant to put down a deposit until I can see how it is going to work with a stock bumper. It may be a year or two before I get the new rear bumper...
And thanks for the time and effort to deliver another great product to our community!
YEESSSSSSS! Just pre-ordered mine! Can't wait for this! If it doesn't fit with the gobi ladder, i'll be selling mine!
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In the fell clutch of circumstance
I have not winced nor cried aloud.
Under the bludgeonings of chance
My head is bloody, but unbowed.
With the way the Hi-Lift is getting mounted, wouldn't it be easy to just drill a hole in the stud, that goes through the holes in the bar of the jack, big enough to thread a lock through? Then once you slide the jack onto the mounting stud, you just attach the lock so they cannot slide the jack off.
We cant drill a hole in the stud because it might weaken it to much. But if people want the locks we will figure out a good way. Thanks for the suggestion
Also, I would second the request for some sort of loops on the cargo tray to attach ropes, hooks, bungies, etc. Or simpler yet, how about drilling a couple of holes around the top edge every few inches?
Thanks we will include them if enough people want them
Last, I have a stock bumper currently and would buy the fit kit for that, but would there be any problem with buyng a Warn fit kit later and retro-fitting it to mount on a Warn rear bumper when I get one?
Really great question!!! Thats the beauty of it. You can start with the stock bumper then get a warn or ARB or any of the bumpers we make a kit for and the tire carrier will drop right on no problem. It grows as you do! Thanks.
I am very interested in how this all works out, but I am hesitant to put down a deposit until I can see how it is going to work with a stock bumper. It may be a year or two before I get the new rear bumper...
No problem, stay tuned and as these come out and people start installing them there will be more pictures. We will try our best to get more pictures as well.
And thanks for the time and effort to deliver another great product to our community!
Thanks!
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Bunch of stuff...pretty much just go to our website and you will know what and why I love LUCRUM. Redefining Off-Road Innovation www.lucrumind.com
Chris, can you give us some schematics of how you intend to bolt this to the stock bumper. I'd assume there would be some cutting of the plastic and what not. But where are you going to mount it to? Please tell me no welding.
The Gobi ladder sticks out 2 inches at the very bottom and six inches above the bottom it sticks out three inches. Three inches is the max that it sticks out. Hope this helps!
__________________
In the fell clutch of circumstance
I have not winced nor cried aloud.
Under the bludgeonings of chance
My head is bloody, but unbowed.