Maintenance TechThis forum is for discussion of all aspects of maintenance that should be performed on the FJ Cruiser to keep it operating at maximum efficiency.
The point is that lube changes things for torquing fasteners. My shop teacher in 1975 told us this. Always remembered it, but thanks for posting it up. Bet it's very common. I know every time I buy plugs, they try to pimp the lube on my order. They look stupefied when I decline.
I think the root of the problem is that most folks seem to use anti seize incorrectly. So like most governing bodies they discourage the correct in support of the incorrect.
Used sparingly, and I mean a little dab at the end of the threads then wipe the excess off is how it's done.
Yes, a lot of material in any thread changes the tq values and threading characteristics. There shouldn't be any glob of anything on the threads.
That-said, most a park plug manufacturers have taken into account their applications and their metals are treated accordingly. No real need, but I do it anyway...albeit very, very little. Been doing it for over 30 years without an issue...ever. Oh and the old plugs always glide right out and are uncorroded.
Another article from the E3 spark plug site.
"Anti-seize compound is not necessary but if used, USE SPARINGLY! Only a tiny drop is needed at the beginning of the threads. The rest of the threads will be coated as the plug is screwed into the engine.
- Jim McFarland, E3 Spark Plugs Engineer"
I think the root of the problem is that most folks seem to use anti seize incorrectly. So like most governing bodies they discourage the correct in support of the incorrect.
Used sparingly, and I mean a little dab at the end of the threads then wipe the excess off is how it's done.
Yes, a lot of material in any thread changes the tq values and threading characteristics. There shouldn't be any glob of anything on the threads.
That-said, most a park plug manufacturers have taken into account their applications and their metals are treated accordingly. No real need, but I do it anyway...albeit very, very little. Been doing it for over 30 years without an issue...ever. Oh and the old plugs always glide right out and are uncorroded.
Another article from the E3 spark plug site.
"Anti-seize compound is not necessary but if used, USE SPARINGLY! Only a tiny drop is needed at the beginning of the threads. The rest of the threads will be coated as the plug is screwed into the engine.
- Jim McFarland, E3 Spark Plugs Engineer"
Kramer - 07 TRD
ding ding ding!!!
correct answer!
when manufacturers state this in their repair procedures all of the above is included and taken into consideration.
lets reference boat engines, you`d be foolish to not install the correct antisieze and still torque to spec. A loose plug on a 2 stroke will blow and engine. no antisieze and the plugs have been in an aluminum head forever and your going to have issues with snapping or stripping the head, especially those 10mm plugs on popular 4 stroke engines...
when manufacturers state this in their repair procedures all of the above is included and taken into consideration.
lets reference boat engines, you`d be foolish to not install the correct antisieze and still torque to spec. A loose plug on a 2 stroke will blow and engine. no antisieze and the plugs have been in an aluminum head forever and your going to have issues with snapping or stripping the head, especially those 10mm plugs on popular 4 stroke engines...
True that... Use it on my boat, cars, trucks, motorcycles, lawn mowers, garden tractors... A few of these have aluminum heads...
True that... Use it on my boat, cars, trucks, motorcycles, lawn mowers, garden tractors... A few of these have aluminum heads...
Kramer - 07 TRD
back in the day we even used it on cast iron heads with those massive champion spark plugs that would rust if you looked at them...
I was always a Motorcraft or Autolite plug guy!
Now it`s NGK, decent price for a plug with decent life...
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2008 Toyota FJ Cruiser
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