MAF Sensor Maintenance

[Dragon]

kokopelli previously said:

If you use a cone type oiled/hi-flow filter, one of the outerskin pre-filters is the way to go. You just wash it out and stick it back on.. Ron

I do, but I believe Larry is using a drop in type. Am I correct Larry?

[kokopelli]

Are you using the Airaid prefilter and the TRD CAI? I believe Airaid bought out the outerskin people a couple of years ago. I like that combination. Ron

Dragon previously said:

I do, but I believe Larry is using a drop in type. Am I correct Larry?

[layonnn]

if you look at larry's picture he has the stock air box

[Dragon]

kokopelli previously said:

Are you using the Airaid prefilter and the TRD CAI? I believe Airaid bought out the outerskin people a couple of years ago. I like that combination. Ron

I'm not using a prefilter as I'm driving in swampy slop more so than the dust that Uphill sees in Cali. I like that set up, though, and will utilize it in some of my upcoming expeditions.

I was just trying to suggest that with the drop in types (stock box), he could just exchange with "new" correctly preoiled filters instead of the OEM if he wants the better airflow, for about $70 each time.

[kokopelli]

That's the conclusion that I came to as well. The last two I had (03 Rubi w/25K and 05 Rubi w/25K) I used the prefilter and never had to actually clean the filter. On my 97 TJ with 100K, I had to clean and reoil it twice and it had dust in the intake (post filter) both times. If someone came up with a way to use the Cyclone prefilter with the TRD CAI, that would e the way to go. I'd still probably use one of the outerskin types if I lived in the desert.. Ron

Dragon previously said:

I'm not using a prefilter as I'm driving in swampy slop more so than the dust that Uphill sees in Cali. I like that set up, though, and will utilize it in some of my upcoming expeditions.

I was just trying to suggest that with the drop in types (stock box), he could just exchange with "new" correctly preoiled filters instead of the OEM if he wants the better airflow.

[JDEMELLO]

I don't think I explained it right to Larry, I believe his check engine light was caused by too much dust on the MAF sensor. Oil is a problem as well but his had a lot of dust on the sensor.

The problem occurs because some aftermarket filters are known to have weak seals or even worse very porous filtration. IMO K&N has both depending on model the seal actually leaks too.
I was a huge fan of K&N a long time ago; no one could tell me anything negative about them. But after years of having check engine lights come on in my Tacoma after almost every off road trip. On top of that the TTORA forum it became a very hot topic because a number of other Toyota drivers had the same problem. It became the consensus that the filter was causing the problem.

We should have taken pictures of Larry’s air box pass the filter it was a perfect example of everything that can go wrong with the aftermarket filters. He had dust all the way up to the throttle body and all over the inside of the plastic box. His MAF sensor was coated in dust as well throwing his check engine light.

When I was evolved with the TTORA group we actually had a Tacoma stop running because of his MAF sensor covered in dust. He was running the Full K&N filter unit. I use to carry a can of electronics cleaner with me when I went off road JIC.

I know some people here love there K&N's, I'm sorry these are just my experiences.

[uphill]

My air-flow is OEM with the exception of the snorkel. I added a K & N filter nearly a year ago now and have maintained it per specifications and check it ---well, not often enough it seems. I thought of returning to the OEM filters about 4 months ago now but didn't pull the trigger until today. All in all, better to swap the filters out for better coverage.

I considered a cold air intake for some time but held off because I wasn't sure if they'd be compatible with the ARB snorkel. The snorkel is in now and I haven't worked out which solution is best, so stuck with the OEM system. A lot of the dust that Jason spoke about was pre-snorkel.

[DominicG]

Is there an actual "MAF Cleaner"? Or will compressed air do the trick?

I think im going to go clean it just to do it.

[JDEMELLO]

DominicG previously said:

Is there an actual "MAF Cleaner"? Or will compressed air do the trick?

I think im going to go clean it just to do it.

Electrical parts cleaner works best. It dries with no oil so any chance of messing up your sensor. Compressed air will help but won't get it that clean. Be really careful the sensor is very fragile.

[uphill]

DominicG previously said:

Is there an actual "MAF Cleaner"? Or will compressed air do the trick?

I think im going to go clean it just to do it.

At Jason's suggestion, I picked up a can of electronic parts cleaner. It cleans without leaving an oil residue. Jason sprayed the heck out of the sensor with the cleaner and it did the trick.

We drive in so much dust that this is going to be a maintenance item for me every-other oil change. Maybe I won't need to clean it that often, but inspecting it every 10K miles or so just makes sense.

Sometimes I feel like a dunce.

Even though the price may be high (higher than I want to pay for one), I'm thinking of adding a MAF sensor to my kit of spare parts to keep with the rig.