Maintenance TechThis forum is for discussion of all aspects of maintenance that should be performed on the FJ Cruiser to keep it operating at maximum efficiency.
I have a small qt. hand pump now. Costs about $5-7 at most parts places.
Before that I used to use a long tube, stick it in the fill port and run the other end of the tube to the outside of the vehicle. I'd stick a funnel in the end of the tube and tie the top of the funnel to the side mirror with a string. Then I would pour in the required amount of lube by standing alongside the vehicle. After putting in the last bit, I'd climb back under the vehicle with my needle nosed pliers and wait for the overflow, then I'd pinch the tube and pull it out of whatever I was filling and stick it into one of the empty lube bottles to drain the remainder into. Gravity works great.
DEWFPO
__________________ 2007 FJ, 5AT, Sun Fusion Yellow, CQ, UP, GY, RB, 2Q, EL, VS.
"Wanted - young, skinny, wiry fellows, not over 18. Must be expert riders willing to risk death daily. Orphans preferred"
Original newspaper add placed by William Hepburn Russell, founder of the The Pony Express
Quick question....where is the drain plug for the transfer case? I tired looking at the FJ factory manuals and it doesn't show where its located.
-B
Find the transfer case. If you cannot find it, follow the rear drive shaft towards the front of the vehicle. It will end at the TC. Here, you will see 2 large bolts (these bolts will be facing the rear of the vehicle), 24mm or 15/16". I was able to get under the vehicle and drain/refill the TC when it was stock.
Remember, always remove the refill (top) bolt first.
__________________
2007 VooDoo Blue / 5AT / 4WD
Rear Diff Hack (Works in 2HI & 4HI) / Rear Diff + ATrac Hack
Rough Country 3" Lift
KU4IY (Yaesu FT-7800)
Find the transfer case. If you cannot find it, follow the rear drive shaft towards the front of the vehicle. It will end at the TC. Here, you will see 2 large bolts (these bolts will be facing the rear of the vehicle), 24mm or 15/16". I was able to get under the vehicle and drain/refill the TC when it was stock.
Remember, always remove the refill (top) bolt first.
When I crawled underneath the car it was pretty obvious. LOL! So after after changing out the front & rear diff, and the transfer case I ended up using 5.5 quarts. Is that normal?
When I crawled underneath the car it was pretty obvious. LOL! So after after changing out the front & rear diff, and the transfer case I ended up using 5.5 quarts. Is that normal?
-B
That sounds normal. I used nearly 6 full quarts, but I did allow everything to drain for an hour.
__________________
2007 VooDoo Blue / 5AT / 4WD
Rear Diff Hack (Works in 2HI & 4HI) / Rear Diff + ATrac Hack
Rough Country 3" Lift
KU4IY (Yaesu FT-7800)
I just changed my rear differential oil for the first time with Mobil 1 Synthetic 75W-90. The old oil was very dirty, slightly milky, with sludge and some metal fragments/shavings - YUCK! I've been in some water and at just under 20k miles, I was a bit nervous about how bad it would be - wish I would have changed it earlier, but it's done now. I will definitely be changing my diff fluid at least every 10k from now on and am also doing the scuba mod.
I just had my diffs done yesterday. The fluid was dark greyto light black but not milky. No metal shavings on the magnets either.
What level of fluid darkness should cause alarm?
Thanks.
The color isn't really all that important. If it's dark, it typically means the fluid is doing it job by suspending the fine particles in it. What you are mainly looking for is material on the magnet, the 'feel' of the lube between your fingers and the consistency (as compared to fresh).
DEWFPO
__________________ 2007 FJ, 5AT, Sun Fusion Yellow, CQ, UP, GY, RB, 2Q, EL, VS.
"Wanted - young, skinny, wiry fellows, not over 18. Must be expert riders willing to risk death daily. Orphans preferred"
Original newspaper add placed by William Hepburn Russell, founder of the The Pony Express