Fasteners (suspension) - Toyota FJ Cruiser Forum
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post #1 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:00 AM Thread Starter
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Fasteners (suspension)

I'm in the process of putting in my Toytec performance lift (finally! woo!). I have about 45k on it in the Northeast and also drive on the beach, though, so rust is an issue.

I pretty much just want to replace all of the fasteners I have removed so far. I plan to keep the truck for a long time so I might as well. I have been able to find things like the upper control arm bolt, strut bolts, and lower shock bolt...

2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser Suspension Parts upper control arm parts - OEM Toyota Parts
2013 Toyota FJ Cruiser Suspension Parts struts & components parts - OEM Toyota Parts

...but I'm having trouble finding the bolts that hold the skid control sensor brackets to the spindle, the brake line bracket to the frame, ball joint bracket bolts, skid plate bolts, etc. These are also the most corroded bolts by far.

Is there somewhere in the parts catalog I'm not looking, or do I just need to go to the dealer/store with the bolts and get them that way. I'd prefer to pick out of the online catalog so I can get OEM stuff and not pay a fortune.

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post #2 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:28 AM
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Re: Fasteners (suspension)

You could always try your local Fastenal or hardware store and see if they have the correct bolts. There's nothing magic about most of the bolts on the FJ, just the specialty ones would be hard to find.

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post #3 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 10:49 AM
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Re: Fasteners (suspension)

and when you put the new ones in you can use some anti-seize on the threads to help prevent corrosion next time around

Note that if you use anything like that on a suspension bolt to be VERY CAREFUL with the tightening torque because the values given in the manual are for dry threads and lubed ones will slide far more easily. Since the amount of stretch of the bolt during tightening is the key thing, and torque is the typical way of measuring that, then the amount of friction when torquing is also key. Industry standards say that the friction in the threads account for ~40% of the torque, and the friction under the head as much as 50%, so what I do is reduce my torque specs by -40% and try to keep the anti-seize off of the head.

After assembly, drive for 100 miles and re-check (make a list of each torque so you don't get mixed up later), just to make sure nothing was missed and coming loose.

In general, an over-torqued fastener is more dangerous than an under-torqued one. An under-torqued one will come loose and can be re-tightened safely. An over-torqued one has been yielded and has lost strength from doing so.

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post #4 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:06 AM
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Re: Fasteners (suspension)

The Toyota online parts catalogs are incomplete for the 10-15 FJ, try searching for 07-09. Some parts are different (like front lower shock bolt), but most are the same

Lower balljoint bracket bolts - 9010516053
Front brake line bracket to frame (where hardline meets flexible hose) - 4735460140
bolt for wheel speed sensor to spindle/hub is no longer available, but part num is 91551A0616,
skid plate bolts are also no longer available, part num 9011908A33, but they are m8x1.25 and roughly 15-20mm long


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post #5 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-18-2017, 11:55 AM Thread Starter
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Re: Fasteners (suspension)

Thanks guys, that is all super helpful. I'm going to order a bunch of this stuff, and then I just found out there's a fastenal 10 minutes from my house! Had never checked it out before but that should be good for the skid bolts.

Great point about the anti-seize too. I am a big proponent of anti-seize but never even thought of that WRT torque specs.

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post #6 of 6 (permalink) Old 05-22-2017, 11:19 AM
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Re: Fasteners (suspension)

Interesting note about anti-seize and torque. Stuff I knew from work but I've never thought to apply it to the FJ when using anti-seize. Bolt Depot has a lot of useful fastener information. I've never checked to see if the toques recommended by Toyota are near the recommended torques or something less. Also when I replace hardware I either use Class 10.9 or Grade 8, which should keep me within allowable limits even with anti-seize, and I don't use that much since they're zinc plated.
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