Mobil 1 0W-40, 12120 km used oil sample results

[jayman]

ND40oz previously said:

maybe it's time to go back to it if it's better then the 5W-30 EP, I've been using the EP stuff in all my vehicles for sometime now.

Mobil 1 0W-40 European Car Formula meets ACEA A3, B3, and B4. This is a European spec for severe gasoline and diesel service, with extended oil changes. The oil is BMW, Porsche, and Opel Long Life approved

Mobil 1 5W-30 meets ACEA A1/B1 and A5/B5. It is rated in Europe for extended oil changes, but *not* for severe operating duty

[Dragon]

70,500 miles on my rig, with all but 1,000 miles driven using Mobil 1. I started with 5W30, and two oil changes ago I switched to 0W30. Today I switched over to 0W40 European. Thank you for the great report. I anticipate great protection.

[DEWFPO]

Hi Bill,

I'm getting ready to switch over to 0W30 for the winter (it was +3F here 2 nights ago) and wondered if you noticed any changes going from the 5W to 0W. If there are any, I know they will be minimal if any at all but just wondered.

DEWFPO

[Dragon]

I was not real happy with the way that the 0W30 "felt". I don't know how else to say it, but I ran it during the summer. The 0W40 seems to feel a bit smoother, but again, it is just a feeling. As you said, the difference is minimal if at all, and it might be in my mind only

[Victor-FJ]

Thank you Jayman for the great test job and info.
I was waiting for your oil sample results, using now 0W-40 too (Aral) with the same specification.
Electing for better Protection…
Only some comments, if any for such content of:
Mo 62
Zi 698
P 626
Many Thanks…

[DEWFPO]

Dragon previously said:

I was not real happy with the way that the 0W30 "felt". I don't know how else to say it, but I ran it during the summer. The 0W40 seems to feel a bit smoother, but again, it is just a feeling. As you said, the difference is minimal if at all, and it might be in my mind only

Thanks Bill, I know exactly what you mean. I have experienced similar myself. DEWFPO

[jayman]

DEWFPO previously said:

I'm getting ready to switch over to 0W30 for the winter (it was +3F here 2 nights ago) and wondered if you noticed any changes going from the 5W to 0W.

Comparing Mobil 1 5W-30 to Mobil 1 0W-30, you should notice a slight difference at 0 F. The motor will seem to crank a bit easier. At -20 F, the difference becomes noticeable.

At -40, it's a very noticeable difference when you compare the two oils, especially cold start cranking. There is a similar difference at -20 F and especially -40, comparing Mobil 1 0W-30 to Mobil 1 0W-20

On the other end of the scale, while I'm sure that Mobil 1 0W-30 and even 0W-20 will protect the motor in summer, I've noticed that the 0W-40 just "feels" better. I know that's subjective, and I have no technical proof, but the motor doesn't make that valvetrain tick-tick-tick-tick with 0W-40

Noise itself may not be abnormal, unless it happens at low temps and is loud. For example, run conventional 10W-30 or 5W-30, don't plug it in, and try to start it at -20 F. Like some of my neighbors try to do: knock-knock-knock-knock-knock

A gasoline motor shouldn't sound like an old Cornbinder diesel

[jayman]

Dragon previously said:

I was not real happy with the way that the 0W30 "felt". I don't know how else to say it

Again, I can't offer any sort of technical explanation. In theory, at normal operating temps, there is minimal to no difference between 0W-30, 5W-30, 10W-30, or 30. But when we get into the "touchy feely" stuff, then I will agree that Mobil 1 0W-40 "feels" better.

No difference in fuel economy that I could determine, great used oil analysis results, so why not run a better oil, at least in summer?

As far as bitter cold winter temps, Mobil 1 0W-40, 0W-30, and 0W-20 are all 0W oils. That doesn't mean they perform exactly the same at -40. The SAE J300 spec calls for a 0W oil to have a maximum cold pumping viscosity of 60,000 centiPoise at -40.

60,000 cP is the absolute pumping limit, empirically determined, at or beyond which the oil pump ceases to pump and the motor runs dry. Many conventional 5W-30 oils will test 75,000-100,000 cP at -40. The SAE requires a 5W to pass the 60,000 cP test at -30 C, or -22 F

According to Mobil, their 0W oils are rated:

0W-40 26,242 cP
0W-30 11,100 cP
0W-20 5,642 cP

FYI: the military MIL-L-46167 oil spec for Arctic duty is generally a synthetic 0W-20, approved for heavy duty turbo diesel use

Even the 0W-40 is a far better choice than a conventional 5W-30 in winter. But if you knew you'd be operating in ambient temps of -20 F or colder, it does appear the 0W-20 would be the best choice

YMMV

[jayman]

Hello Victor

Victor-FJ previously said:

Only some comments, if any for such content of:
Mo 62
Zi 698
P 626

Mo: Molybdenum
Zi: Zinc
P: Phosphorus

These are oil additives used in most modern detergent oils. The values are entirely within range for Mobil 1 0W-40

Molybdenum sulfide is a commonly used friction modifier. It does have some anti-wear properties, but is primarily used to improve fuel economy

Zinc Dialkyl Dithio Phosphate is a proven anti-wear additive. It's especially beneficial for hard sliding friction, say an older motor with flat tappets, very high valve spring pressures, and a camshaft.

Phosphorus is an anti-wear additive, commonly as ZDDP

Mobil 1 0W-40 will have about 20% higher levels of ZDDP than North American oils. The Western European driving cycle of high speed autoroutes, it is thought the motor has better protection with higher levels of ZDDP

Here in North America, ZDDP has been dramatically reduced since the mid 1990's, and will probably be reduced to nil levels. A problem with ZDDP is that over time, it tends to coat oxygen sensors and catalytic converters. This is thought to increase exhaust emissions

In California and states that have adopted California emissions standards, the automaker typically must offer a 10 year or 120,000 mile warranty on emission components. It's unlikely for a catalytic converter or O2 sensor to keep working that long with oils high in ZDDP

In the EU, emissions warranties are much shorter. Again, the driving cycle is such that the motor will be working near maximum RPM on an autoroute. The tradeoff of better engine protection is made, over longer emissions performance

[DEWFPO]

I've been running Amsoil ASL 5W30 and have been pleased with it. It's got over 8,000 miles on it and I've got M1 0w30 sitting on the shelf so I thought I'd dump the ASL and try the M1 0W30 for the winter.

Winter has finally arrived and I plugged it in for the first time last week. Damn weak 400 watt heater. All it does is help the engine start and maybe the temp gauge comes up a 'little' faster with it's use.

I'm so used to the dual 750 watt factory block heaters on my old 85 Ford. I have an H.D., exterior timer that turns them on 2-3 hrs before I need to use the truck and when I get in and turn the key on, the temp gauge is off the peg near the first normal tick. The engine cranks over like it 70F outside and there's instant heat. Ah, the good old days.... appear to be gone.

In my other vehicles, I run synthetic 5W40 oils for the same reason. They just sound better when hot. Especially the higher tech motors with 4 valves, 4 cams and long timing chains.

Thanks for the input.

DEWPFO