Maintenance TechThis forum is for discussion of all aspects of maintenance that should be performed on the FJ Cruiser to keep it operating at maximum efficiency.
hi all, i am just wondering what others have done when it came time to replacing your brake pads on the FJ. i am at 30,000 miles and they are becoming noisy and are getting close to having to be replaced. i have a couple questions, when switching pads, do you need to surface the rotors? also, can i get away with using the same rotors or should i replace them along with the pads as well? and lastly, i am in college and have a pretty low budget so am looking for a cheap yet correct solution for my FJ. i have 295/75 r 16 terra grapplers on the truck and i know this is not helping my brakes either.
Are the rotors warn uneven or gouged? If not... just buy new Toyota pads and replace.
^ on a budget... that's what I would do.
Agreed. Unless the steering wheel is shaking when you stop, the rotors should be fine...assuming you don't wear the pads so far down there is metal-to-metal contact.
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I agree with the Toyota brake pads, however, whether or not you have any vibration or shacking when you brake, you should still get the rotors resurfaced. You want a nice clean surface for the new pads to seat well in. Also, some of the noise you are hearing can come from the rotors. The rotors will develop hot spots on them where they have been glazed over from the heat, this causes squealing when you brake. Whenever you change your pads, you should always turn your rotors. Any brake shop will turn them for you. Most places just charge about $10-$12 per rotor.
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i also have another question, the front brakes also seem to squeal even when they are not being applied. its just a quiet squeal and i can get it to go away when i just gently tap on them while driving at speed but then comes back next time they are applied.
There are squeeler indicators on most brake pads... they are usually just a little metal tab that vibrates on the rotor when the pads are worn down. When you hit the brakes it pushes the tab hard on the rotor and the noise goes away. Sounds like it could be that.
Semi-metallic brakes squeel from time to time anyway. I'm not sure of the Toyota compound that is used. But mine never squeal except the occassional first thing in the morning in reverse. (mentioned in the TSB).
Other than that could be a lot of things related to the rotors, calipers, pads and should be checked out by a professional. Brakes are one of those things you don't want to dick with if you are not comfortable.
If the rotors are not gouged or in bad shape I usually just run a roll lock disc over the rotor to break up the directional pattern then just put new pads on. But I will always get them turned every other brake job.
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It's always better to have the rotors turned every time you change pads. Mainly because you sometimes get uneven wear on your rotors. By turning them it ensures that the surfaces are set to the same thickness thus preventing pulling do to uneven surface wear or unwanted noise. Yes, sometimes you will get lucky and not have any issues but most times you will. The rotors take the shape of the pads after braking so many times. With new pads you want a new surface to begin the process again.
For $10 to $12 a rotor its worth doing it right the first time. Time=Money
I learned the hard way after years of changing my own brakes.
Hope this helps.
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I have never been a fan of turning rotors. The thinner they are the easier they will warp. If I'm pulling them off to turn them, I'll just put brand new ones on.
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This would make since if you had turned them 4 or 5 times already. Your rotors are thick to start with. And they only take enough off your rotors when turning to create a new surface leaving your rotors plenty thick. You can turn your rotors quite a few times without worrying about getting too thin. Don't buy new ones until this becomes a problem.
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TT Edition, 6" Rough Country, 33/12.50R16 MTZs, ARB Front and Rear Bumper with IPF Rally Lights, Light roof dam with 500 Hella Series, Warn 9.5XP, Amsteel blue, Volant Cold Air Intake, Demelo Sliders, Painless dual Battery with Yellow Top Optima, and of course Conbluter Valve Upgrade, and a X1200Flux Capacitor, with Yoda Bearings. And a nuckle buster prevent toggle switch (NBTS). It's gotta short.
It's Never Where You Are It's Who You Are With ! ss
God would never had made a mountain he didn't want man to climb. ss
To Have Weeled and Lost is Far Greater than to have Never Wheeled. ss