A dirty FJ is a happy FJ. Quite a bit of river fording, mudding, very deep "dust" the consistency of talc, and a little rocking and no trail damage beyond a loose BANDI mount.
However another FJ's hassles in rocks that I declined to enter have made me reconsider waiting for the newly designed Bud Built fuel tank skid. I'll call Bud on Monday and get one of the current generation sent my way. It's not worth the alternative.
Bottom Line: A dirty FJ is a happy FJ.
FYI the FJ in question, mine, gas tank came away unscathed, with little or no damage to the oem tank skid.
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"My eyes have seen the glory of the coming of the chord..." Dave Meniketti
TLC,OME suspension,ALL-PRO bumpers F&R,All-Pro Skids everywhere,onboard CO2,AFE cai,BFG A/T,Warn M8000 w/Viking line, mojave pin stripes,miller rock dings, John Bull dents...
"If it don't GO chrome it!..." old racing sage W.W.
TLCA #17456
CA4WDC #10801
4X4 Freelanders
Blue Ribbon Coalition
Tom got hung up on that boulder but he was lucky that it was a flat top boulder. It was like a table. I don't think that was a good test for the factory skids. I would get the gas tank skid. The rock was just flat on the top.
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Click for the "Genie" build up
Sandoo Blue FJ
Walker Evans adj. F&R reservoir shocks. Pro Links. AP F&R bumpers. Demello skid. Mile Marker SE9500C. Viking Trail Line. Super Swamper LTB 34s on Tacoma wheels. 305 MTR on Wheelers wheels. Trail Gear Sliders, Aeroflow, Lightforce Blitz 240, Powertank 10lb, Hi-Lift, Jack Mate, Pull-Pal.
So should I get the BudBuilt fuel tank skid or not? I haven't ordered it yet...and it's more weight???
You know I believe you can never have enough metal underneath, but from buds pics it looks like you loose some clearance? I think I am going to concetrate on driving better!!!
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"My eyes have seen the glory of the coming of the chord..." Dave Meniketti
TLC,OME suspension,ALL-PRO bumpers F&R,All-Pro Skids everywhere,onboard CO2,AFE cai,BFG A/T,Warn M8000 w/Viking line, mojave pin stripes,miller rock dings, John Bull dents...
"If it don't GO chrome it!..." old racing sage W.W.
TLCA #17456
CA4WDC #10801
4X4 Freelanders
Blue Ribbon Coalition
It's just sitting in the driveway like a great jungle cat waiting to pounce and I decided to take a photo because I don't think I ever took one of the FJ at night.
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There is nothing like returning to a place that remains unaltered, to find the ways that you have changed.
I'm just adding a bit on tire balancing because it seems to come up on the Forum a lot. So this is a re-post with some amplification:
MIR207 did the research and he's right on the money. Anything larger than a 33 inch tire will rub on full compression with a 3" lift or suspension that raises the FJ 3 inches above stock. I run 34's (Nitto TG 305/70R17) and they rub even after chopping everything I can chop.
YOU MUST HAVE YOUR LARGE AFTERMARKET TIRES DYNAMICALLY BALANCED
When were they manufactured? The date is on the sidewall by week of the year and year (for example 2607 would mean the tire was made in the twenty-sixth week of 2007)
The older the tire is from the mfg date the greater the chance that you'll have conicity problems (the tire isn't quite round). Some tire manufacturers have problems with their tires when they're NEW but Nitto isn't one of those brands.
When a tire is mounted onto the wheel, two slightly imperfect units are joined to form an assembly weighing forty pounds for the average car or 115 pounds for my Nittos with the WE wheels.
The chances of this assembly having absolutely precise weight distribution about its radial and lateral centers are virtually impossible. Remember that all it takes is half an ounce of uneven weight distribution for a vibration to be felt. The illustration below shows how an imbalance creates vibration.
The static imbalance creates a hop or vertical vibration. The dynamic imbalance creates a side-to-side or wobbling vibration. Most assemblies have both types of imbalance, and require dynamic balancing (commonly referred to as spin balancing) to create even weight distribution. The balancing system directs a technician to place counter weights on the rim's outer surface to offset the imbalance. When the balancing system tests for virtually perfect weight distribution, the assembly is in balance and will not vibrate. Your tires will ride smoothly and wear evenly (with regard to balance).
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There is nothing like returning to a place that remains unaltered, to find the ways that you have changed.
First off....I LOVE those WE wheels. I shudder to think what the final sticker would be to get them up here in the Great White North, but I'd still love a set!
BTW...totally agree with the dynamic balancing. That's what I find with the DC FC IIs that I have...they were hell to balance properly. By contrast, I've had several sets of BFG ATs and they always balanced with minimal weights.
__________________ Mods: OME 883s / Body Mount "Chop" / 285-75-16 Dick Cepek Fun Country II / 16 X 8 Ultra 50 wheels / ARB Sliders / AFE CAI / Borla Cat Back Dual Exhaust / Pioneer DEH 6900 / Rockford Fosgate Components / Alpine Type R Sub / 35% Tint to match OEM / Forum Decal! / Toyota Hood Protector & aluminum door sill plates