Air2air's Rear End

[Fishermedic]

I don't know if you've noticed this but...

you have stock side mirrors!!

Quick change them before someone notices!!!!

[AWSUMDC]

JDEMELLO previously said:

It's hard to impress the Dick. Leave it too Wyatt to make Dick happy.

Air bumps mounted in the frame like Thongs would do his FJC a great deal of good. Even a better shock like a bypass for the rear would be better than what he has now.

I know it's a shocker, but Dick did say he was impressed with your build on the Taco. He may never admit it but I heard it. DeMello impressed the Dick

[4RnrJ]

AWSUMDC previously said:

I know it's a shocker, but Dick did say he was impressed with your build on the Taco. He may never admit it but I heard it. DeMello impressed the Dick

Are your sliders welded on, or bolted on?

[Sean K.]

AWSUMDC previously said:

I know it's a shocker, but Dick did say he was impressed with your build on the Taco. He may never admit it but I heard it. DeMello impressed the Dick

No, this:



is the shocker.

Wonder if Jenna was impressed with the Dick after this weekend?

Sorry....innuendo too far?

Sean

[Air2air]

From Jared's sig:

"If you feel you have been given poor service on this site, I'll gladly provide you with a full refund: $0.00 - ekool"

I have to agree, one of the great classic lines from ekool

[AWSUMDC]

4RnrJ previously said:

Are your sliders welded on, or bolted on?

Welded.

[4RnrJ]

AWSUMDC previously said:

Welded.

And Dick was still impressed? Interesting.

[LT.]

Air2air previously said:

I think this is Sol's Diamond setup. Since he has got the electronics figured out that will indeed be helpful. As I was reading on his thread, if you can't get the speed sensor working on the rear, you don't go anywhere. I'm sure he will chime in with detailed comments:

FJ40/60/80 9.5" Rear

• 9.5" FJ80 Land Cruiser Center
• Centered Diff
• Semi-Float Mini Truck Bearings (Outer)
• 62" Wide

I know this is a rather late post since I do not get much of a chance to browse through the forum. One thing for future reference is the FZJ80 rear ends. The are 63" WMS to WMS and they are a true full floating rear end with disc brake. Even the suspension mounting is almost the same as the FJC... sadly tho it is different. I am currently putting a FZJ80 rear end under my FJ40 and we took measurements before I took the plasma cutter to the suspension mounts.

You can also get the FZJ80 rear ends that have the e-locker already in them or buy a non locked version and put a ARB in. The only downside to using the FJZ80 rear end is the differential is offset to the passenger side by about 3 - 4". It is not centered like the FJC. However that issues can be resolved with a double cardigan driveshaft to help with the offset and drive line vibration down the road. Just thought I would throw in my .2 cents on this.

[Air2air]

URD Thorley report

The 35's are just killing me in daily driver use, in both gas and performance. I have to downshift to 4th to pass, and on freeway hills. So I am really hoping this last engine tweak will help me out of that.

I had photographed a whole series on installing the Thorleys. But then I just deleted all the pics. Nice. So these 3 are all there are:








Thorley's dyno sheets say to look for an increase of 18HP and 28 ft/lbs at 3500 RPM. And you have to get to 3500 before it really comes in. After only one drive home I can say it is faster, but not as enjoyable because I was in the quiet and respectable South OC suburbs.

With URD's Y-pipe and custom 3" exhaust I am very conscious of making a little too much sound around the neighbors. There is a quiet Magnaflow in there that is helping. Also we did not have crush gaskets and you can hear there is a leak. We'll put new ones in next week when URD gets a delivery. For now it's a touch too loud. Out on the open road I will probably like it a lot.

Installation.. whew. The problem is taking off the factory pipes. There are six 12mm nuts on studs for each side, and they are really bad to get to. In particular, the front-most nut on the left side took us half a day. You will try various combinations of approaching from the top, bottom, and through the wheel well.

Once off, you will have to remove some of the studs to get the Thorleys on. For this you must have a Torx socket. Now I don't mean a screwdriver-type Torx bit - I mean the reverse. Yep, a Torx socket. Can't remember the size now. The studs come out pretty easily and if you break one, it is not as terminal as it sounds, because the nuts will still go on.

[JDEMELLO]

Air2air previously said:

URD Thorley report

The 35's are just killing me in daily driver use, in both gas and performance. I have to downshift to 4th to pass, and on freeway hills. So I am really hoping this last engine tweak will help me out of that.

I had photographed a whole series on installing the Thorleys. But then I just deleted all the pics. Nice. So these 3 are all there are:








Thorley's dyno sheets say to look for an increase of 18HP and 28 ft/lbs at 3500 RPM. And you have to get to 3500 before it really comes in. After only one drive home I can say it is faster, but not as enjoyable because I was in the quiet and respectable South OC suburbs.

With URD's Y-pipe and custom 3" exhaust I am very conscious of making a little too much sound around the neighbors. There is a quiet Magnaflow in there that is helping. Also we did not have crush gaskets and you can hear there is a leak. We'll put new ones in next week when URD gets a delivery. For now it's a touch too loud. Out on the open road I will probably like it a lot.

Installation.. whew. The problem is taking off the factory pipes. There are six 12mm nuts on studs for each side, and they are really bad to get to. In particular, the front-most nut on the left side took us half a day. You will try various combinations of approaching from the top, bottom, and through the wheel well.

Once off, you will have to remove some of the studs to get the Thorleys on. For this you must have a Torx socket. Now I don't mean a screwdriver-type Torx bit - I mean the reverse. Yep, a Torx socket. Can't remember the size now. The studs come out pretty easily and if you break one, it is not as terminal as it sounds, because the nuts will still go on.

You might want to try and swap your factory Y pipe back in with the Cats to see if it helps the noise. I bet it's real loud right now.