Standard 7' door. I pulled the valve stems and let the times go completely flat, then drove it out. Then aired up, it worked like a charm. I had about an inch to spare.
You gotta do what ya gotta do!
Very nice to see it up on it's feet. So...where's the testing ground? Break it in before the con?
__________________
Click for the "Genie" build up
Sandoo Blue FJ
Walker Evans adj. F&R reservoir shocks. Pro Links. AP F&R bumpers. Demello skid. Mile Marker SE9500C. Viking Trail Line. Super Swamper LTB 34s on Tacoma wheels. 305 MTR on Wheelers wheels. Trail Gear Sliders, Aeroflow, Lightforce Blitz 240, Powertank 10lb, Hi-Lift, Jack Mate, Pull-Pal.
How did you get the leaf springs right? Did you have to measure corner weights?
I started off trying to calculate ride height and shackle angle based on the weight of each corner. Spent many hours reading various websites on how to calculate shackle length/angles and what people say works best. Armed with my angle finder, a piece of string the length of the leaf springs and the adjustable shackle I made an assumption on the shackle length. Actually this worked and gave me the correct length. In the end, it was easier to make a set of adjustable throw away shackles out of 3/16" bar stock with holes drilled every 1". After testing the height with the adjustable shackles I drilled out the final set of shackles I made out of 1/4" and installed them. Not much math or science in the way I did it, but it seems to have worked.
The springs are almost completely flat at ride height and will more then likely go negative when flexed. I may still have Deaver rebuild the leaf springs to give me a little more lift, so I can go back to a shorter shackle. Current shackles length is 7" which is long. I would also have them do military wraps on both ends .vs just the frame mount side as they are now. I need to wheel it before making any more changes.
Have you limited the ride travel in the center? What angles do you anticipate your drive shaft going through at the transfer case?
I've heard that going spring-over-axle is more contributory toward axle wrap. My first intuition is that a flat spring pack would actually help to minimize this and that more curvature would accentuate it, but this absolutely maxes my mental physics modeler. Is there any conventional wisdom in the matter that you've come across?
Would you consider a traction bar if you notice axle wrap?
I'm going to be following your experiences with axles... VERY closely.
Kudos go to you, because with the size of the FJ Cruiser, this is really how it should have probably been done in the first place.
__________________ FJ CRUISER TI METAL,C PACAGE,6M,ROCK RAILS, TRD EXAUST,T-MAX 9000 WHINCH,CUSTOM FRONT TUBE BUMPER, OME HEAVY FRONT W/TC UCA, OME MEDIUM REAR, CUSTOM REAR TUBE BUMPER, MORE TO COME
Have you limited the ride travel in the center? What angles do you anticipate your drive shaft going through at the transfer case?
The limit straps are mounted 12" outboard of the center of the differential and limit droop on each side at ~1" of full shock shaft extension. At ride height the driveline angle is 14* with a simple magnetic angle finder hanging from the driveshaft. My drive train and tcase tilt slightly so the output shaft flange sits at a 3* angle. I anticipate the driveline will travel between 10* at full compression and ~20*(or more) at full droop. When we built the rear end I wanted spicer 30* CV joints in both front and rear drivelines to eliminate any vibes. We pointed the rear pinion directly at the tcase output. I have no vibes all the way up to 90mph.
Quote:
BellyDoc previously said:
I've heard that going spring-over-axle is more contributory toward axle wrap. My first intuition is that a flat spring pack would actually help to minimize this and that more curvature would accentuate it, but this absolutely maxes my mental physics modeler. Is there any conventional wisdom in the matter that you've come across?
Would you consider a traction bar if you notice axle wrap?
I have heard the same thing about leafs. Everything I've read says flat springs work better. The Deaver springs have an anti-wrap top leaf that cuts down on axle wrap, but I still feel the rear lifting when I'm in the throttle or climbing an obstacle. The axle wrap isn't bad with the 35's, but I'm sure the 37's will accentuate the issue. The next project after the cage project is to build a trac bar.
Quote:
BellyDoc previously said:
I'm going to be following your experiences with axles... VERY closely.
Kudos go to you, because with the size of the FJ Cruiser, this is really how it should have probably been done in the first place.
My first intuition is that a flat spring pack would actually help to minimize this and that more curvature would accentuate it, but this absolutely maxes my mental physics modeler. Is there any conventional wisdom in the matter that you've come across?
My hunch would be that curved springs might reduce wrap because of the triangle they form with the axle. With a flatter spring, the axle is a point along a straight line that you would assume could twist more freely since there is not a tensile load along the spring.
Then aired up, it worked like a charm. I had about an inch to spare.
You gotta do what ya gotta do! 
I would also have them do military wraps on both ends .vs just the frame mount side as they are now. I need to wheel it before making any more changes.
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