Brock's "BRICK HOUSE" build....

[Mountainclimber]

Looks great Brock.

[Brock]

thanks buddy....

[FJ213]

great job Brock!!!....

she's lookin saweet!!....too clean...need to get her dirty again...


i wired my 90mm Hellas (in the ARB) to the Headlights...they are always on with the headlights...
my IPFs...they were just a plug and play...replacing the OEM Hellas that came with the TT....they will come on only with the oem switch and hi beams...
my roof top PIAAs have their own separate switch...we used a taco switch and put it in the dash in one of the empty spots..

[rockland]

You have the angriest bumper ever I like it

[Brock]

CO2 installation...

CURRENT GROUP BUY OF SAME PRODUCT...

Okay, after my first trip with the Upstate Cruisers (TLCA) I knew I was going to get a CO2 canister instead of an air compressor. Why you ask as Air Compressors pay for themselves after the initial purchase? Well there was a couple reasons....

1- I dont like the air compressors out there as they are very low flow rate and I am not a patient man self admittantly. I know some can get pretty damn good but the price is pretty damn nice as well....and I need money for Guinness or Sam Adams to boot so the compressor is not happening. Some nice ones in Overland Journal test and seen some nice ones that work very good for airing up tires on builds here as well...but I wanted more than just something to air up tires. i.e., setting a bead on a wheel

2- I wanted to be able to reset the bead on a tire if it comes off on the trail. I saw Rick (BMTHiker) do it twice on muddy rims in pouring rain and cold....I was impressed. He used K9Crazy's new CO2 tank she won at a trail ride. Also, the lighter fluid or butane trick with a match is cool and fun to watch but my luck would need a fire squad and burn unit on standby if I was doing that crowd-pleaser

3- Being able to run an impact wrench off of it was the tits....that saves a lot of work and frustration when it is cold and you are tired.....love it.

4- Got 10LB canister so should get 20 or so full tire refills out of it if I don't use the impact wrench too much.

CONS: CO2 is about $25 per 10# to fill up.....cant be used laying down...and has chance of blowing safety release if over filled. Weighing cylinder empty or reading it off side of tank and then again after filling is good way to help prevent this mistake.
And if it runs out...it runs out and not a real good way to tell how much is left really except by weighing it again.

So SUNPERFORMANCE has a GROUP BUY. I had watched their products on the 4x4 Parts, Accessories, Tires, Fender Flares, Rubicon Express, Poison Spyder Customs - website for a bit and was about ready to pull the trigger when this one showed up on here. It included 10# cylinder, non-freezing high flow regulator, 25' high pressure hose, cylinder mounting bracket, and safety/carrying handle that protects regulator. So I bought one.


Manufacturer Comments:
The QuickAIR CO2 will fill a 35 X 12.5 tire from 15 to 30 PSI in 40 seconds, and can fill twenty 35" tires before re-filling is needed.
This system features a very high quality regulator - this regulator outperforms the regulators found on all low cost CO2 systems. Other regulators will freeze-clog, rendering the other's systems useless, and causing eventual regulator damage. Our's will flow over 20 CFM without freezing!!!!


I had not completed my rear storage drawers yet and saw where someone else replaced the two grocery bag hooks on drivers side in cargo area with longer bolts and made a mounting attachment...so off I went to HOME DEPOT and TRACTOR SUPPLY.

I bought 3'x 36" flat steel plate about 1/16" thick. Then I bought 2ea M6 bolts 2.5 inches long (M6x1.0.x65), two rubber grommets 1" thick, 2 14mm bolts with washers and nuts, and some 2" thick weather stripping.

I cut the flat plate to 15 inches long so it would fit nicely over the two mounting points. Ground the end and edges and measured for placement.

The end towards the front I dog eared the corners as the sidewall comes into cabin slightly and it was touching. So dog eared corners and trimmed 1/4 inch off end to make it nice. I drilled my holes on center at 15 1/16" for the mount to side of vehicle first.

Mocked it up and then set cylinder bracket in place to approximate holes. Put 3 inches stack of weather stripping on bottom and put some pressure on it and marked holes. THen I put cylinder (full of CO2) on bracket and saw how close it was to the two marked positions as it compressed the foam. It was close so left as it was.

Drilled the holes for the mounting bracket. THen I primed and painted the flat bar with Rustoleum hammered just like sliders.

Put plastic hook, then rubber grommet behind flat bar and then inserted the M6 bolt with a larger washer to start the threading. Then I did the other end as well. I put a piece of MILITARY 100mph tape over the end I dog eared just in case....after paint was dry to touch. No I did not wait for it to cure overnight....I TOLD YOU I WAS IMPATIENT. LOL

Mounted it all up tight....set cylinder in bracket and noticed the protection/carrying handle would not work with it sitting up that high on foam. I dont plan on removing cylinder when using unless it is emergency or for someone else as it is mounted vertically and hose will reach all my tires as it sits. So I left it as mounted as the shock absorbing properties of the foam underneath were more important than the carrying handle.

It sits secure and no rattling or shaking. Riding around all week this week will be the true test on how much is enough when compressing the rubber grommets tight.

Here is picture showing one end of the flat bar mounted...


Here is full shot with the regulator collar pointed to rear to keep it from getting banged by stuff...with hose attached and hanging from rear clothing hook.


I also put one of my motorcycle (Indian) beanies over the top of the regulator....not so much to protect it but in case it does blow the safety valve to keep it somewhat contained inside my hat...plus I will always know where my hat is when it is cold

Finally I am done...and able to use a previous upgrade to my BRICKHOUSE....>PROOST!!!!!!

[FJ213]

nice job Brock...

everyone has a different take on air systems.....you pick the one that works for you and what you like..thats what matters....
they all work and each one has its own advantages...

yours looks saweet!!

[Brock]

yep, that is why everyone should build their rigs for what THEY think is best for THEIR situation and the way THEY drive their FJ.....not based on advertisements or bling.

thanks Pat for the words...

[Brock]

rockland previously said:

You have the angriest bumper ever I like it

you are like the third person to tell me that....THANKS!

[PitBullCruiser]

Wow! Your ride looks awesome! I really like that rear Warn bumper - great write-up!

[Brock]

Well, I am going to FJ SUMMIT this year and had been thinking I could get by with OEM rack....as it held my Demello Hi Lift mounts nicely and my lift....it would hold the canoe...and it would hold duffels and such but sucked for coolers, jerry cans or other small items or heavy items. Also, I am toying with idea of a RTT in a year or two....depending on how the one works out for my buddy PROINV...

So I sold my rack with Demello mounts....and ordered a BajaRack. Partly because of price but also quality and reputation of the rack and company. There are others that are much heavier and may hold twice as much weight but when I added up my vehicles weight already...that would have been wasted ability as fully loaded if I add RTT and a couple other things I will only have a couple hundred pounds to spare...so now weight along with quality counts. Plus BajaRack had a reduced rate which helped make it all that much easier.
The only decision I had to make was whether to get standard rack or the expedition rack. The standard rack is one you see pictured below...the expedition rack only has the basket at front and rear portion is cut down level with bottom of rack so when you put a RTT on top it remains as low as possible for CG and also aerodynamics I am guessing. I want a RTT but wont be this year and maybe not next year depending on economy and other financial strains like my motorcycle and FJ60 So went with standard....and will deal with the 4 inches of eight I guess. I am happy though as I can carry chairs, coolers, jerry cans, tents and many more items than I could even conceive with my oem rack.

So it was ordered...and arrived today. Got a Star bit for my drill to remove the bolts from OEM rack...being careful to try and not damage plastic threaded inserts. Bought a tube of silicone as well....since Chris told me they recommend a dab of silicone when I put in the bolts to help seal the threads and hole from any possible weather.

Soon the OEM was off......the feet were mounted, siliconed, tightened...then rack put in place....bolted, tightened, double checked and it is all good. I am very pleased with the result...
Will go soon and get a couple canoe pades to wrap around the front and rear bars.

One question...has anyone found need to put blue loctite on bolts holding three piece basket together?

Here she is.....Might have to get a custom graphic for the air deflector soon. And I could hear no increase in wind noise and no rattles so far so good.
The standard rack comes with everything you need except the silicone to seal the bolt holes tight. It also comes with the front air deflector and a full length cargo net with abs hooks to secure it to the rails.