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    Hi Old Cruiser!

    Looking to get some advice from you on re-gearing. :)
    I read a thread that you contributed to...hence the contact. I have been debating regearing the 33's i have on my 2014 FJ down to 4.56. This seems like a sweet spot for guys that I read about. Is it true that 4.88 would be too extreme for 33's? How about 4.10?

    A related question- is my being on the fence at this point too about staying at 33's or going on to 35's. Seems that 35's can take a toll on the FJ a bit on bearings, rubbing, driveline, brake upgrading, etc? Can you give me some thoughts that you may have on encouraging or not in me going with 35's? If I go on to 35's, I am assuming that I would need to move to 4.88 gearing, right? As 4.56 would be too lagging...

    Am I thinking right on these two points? Any advice is treasured!

    thx

    Mike

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    Hey Old Cruiser,

    I saw your post about getting the car in FL and driving it back to TX. I have a quick question about title transfer regarding your purchase... Is it possible for me to transfer the title to my name in Florida and use temporary tags to take back to TX or do I have to return with the title in the original owner's name and transfer once in TX? Thanks in advance.

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    IanJackson- Let me break this down as to why your ride will stink with that set up. Icons are good and are not the issue- the fact your cranking them up to match the rear is. The highest most recommend is 2.5"-3". The reason is when you go that high- the suspension has no flex or ability to take hits so it will ride like crap. As for the rear- I ran the set up with the Daystars because MT didnt have the 3" springs out yet. So my set-up allowed for 3-1/2" of lift and the shocks weere made accordingly (11" Omega Bypass). I think the standard 2.5" should work with the CDC (highly recommend if not getting the jounce) but do not go with 2". Wont keep you from hitting those long bump stops. Hope that helps

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    48 Posts
    So i have a question or two. I am getting the MT long travel stage 4 for sure.of course the uptravel is an issue. i would like to do what you did with the jounce stops but dont have the 600 for those yet, a college oriented problem. can you run the 1.5 daystar spacers with the stock spring stops? also im getting the icon 2.5 extended travel front coilovers and with the front lifted at 3.5 and rear lifted at 3.5 ill definitely have some rake right?

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    Hey Karabaras! Justs aw this and havent been on much. I was working in Niznevartovsk and now in Murmansk. Unfortunately the sanctions have me out of here on the 10th. Would have loved to have seen your rig. I swing through Moscow on the 9th to drop off gear and head home early on the 10th.

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    324 Posts
    Hi. Do you still in Russia? Привет, ты в России?
    Статус царя конечно обязывает)

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    Maxxmoto- ill run this up the flag pole- not heard of this before. Are your photos posted on a 3rd party site like Photo bucket or Flickr? Ill check with Wikid to see if any have a solution.

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    Administrator;4385857 Hey there,

    Please message a mod and they will let you know what happened to your images. Here are a couple of mods to choose from:

    bazross
    Fjamming
    Old Cruiser

    Have a great day :)

    ~ GP community support

    Hey there OC, sorry to bug you with this, but you seemed to be the best option for the "go-to" guy to answer my question. I commented that the new format has dumped all of my previous photos posted to my build page, etc. As the reply says, you might be able to help with an answer.

    BTW, I have looked at your build thread countless times since joining the forum, and your rig has been an inspiration for my humble build-up. Thanks for all of the ideas and the humor along the way! :bigthumb:

    Best regards from Alaska,
    Maxxmoto

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    36 Posts
    here are my questions:
    will the 3" expeditions springs solve the limited up travel problem?
    how prone is the rear axle housing to damage? i've read of it being bent.
    how drastic is the loss of turning radius with the total chaos front kit?
    which option would be best for crawling? which for desert? which for both?
    am i opening a can of worms with the long travel option?

    like you i'm also traveling (working on wind turbines though) and will have metal tech doing the install on my next interim trip. it's gonna be a one and done job so i want to get it right so i can go out and enjoy it on my time off at home.

    so, what do you think is the best option for the best do it all set up that includes highway travel? i'll have the omegas in the back on either set up.

    thanks for any advice you can give and stay safe out there,

    buck

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    36 Posts
    greetings,
    i'm a new fj owner and have been reading these pages relentlessly for the last 6 months or so. i've noticed that you have gone through numerous (i'm being polite here) suspension changes and was hoping that you may be able to give me some advice.
    i'm building an expedition style rig. it won't be seeing the likes of the rubicon trail and i don't see the point in mudding. it'll see moderate trails, dunes, oregon/washington forests and high desert. everywhere in this forum i read, "decide what type of wheeling you will do and pick your suspension accordingly." nowhere does it say, "if you want to do this, get that." oregon really has a bit of everything. i was dead set on the following set up until i met LT in person yesterday at metaltech... stage 8 from icon, cdc front and omega rears. LT said this would be, "a great start." i'm pretty sold on long travel now. i'd be getting the total chaos kit in the front and metal tech rear with expedition springs.

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    Florida Bronco- Back spacing would need to be checked against the spindles for clearance. Since all wheels are slightly different- I'd suggest a test fit. As for the UCA's- most are designed to allow for the new geometry of the raised suspension to be placed back into factory specs. This works for 33" tires but for 35", getting the caster ahead of +3.5 degrees is a must to avoid collision with the firewall/ body mount (even chopped).

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    403 Posts
    hey OC, a few suspension questions. I have read and read and understand most of the IFS lifting issues, but maybe you can help me. If I add aftermarket UCA's and extend my coil overs to the full 3" and add 35's with say 4.5 BS wheels do I still need wheel spacers ? also added positive caster, if I get adjustable UCA's and move them and lower ahead, will the caster stay near stock? should I get the non adjustable ones like camber ball joint non adj? thanks!

    · Registered
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    403 Posts
    hey OC, a few suspension questions. I have read and read and understand most of the IFS lifting issues, but maybe you can help me. If I add aftermarket UCA's and extend my coil overs to the full 3" and add 35's with say 4.5 BS wheels do I still need wheel spacers ? also added positive caster, if I get adjustable UCA's and move them and lower ahead, will the caster stay near stock? should I get the non adjustable ones like camber ball joint non adj? thanks!

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    8 Posts
    Old Cruiser - I would like to adopt a mentor on this forum to help with my mods to my '07 FJ. Have not had it a month yet, and am facing problems from a faulty install on a Pro Comp 6" lift; mainly the sway bar end link with the bolts not being trimmed as per install instructions. I have been considering LT for the front end. I need new suspension all around. Tires as well. Need winch, front bumper, etc to get trail ready. I will claim that I know very little and would like to learn from someone - so I don't run into anymore problems along the way. Specifically spending money on mod's that will then need re'modded to get the FJ trail ready. Dad likes crawling rocks in his Jeep Rubicon, so I will want the FJ to be able to crawl rocks as well as rally the bumps and roads well. I would appreciate any help! Thank you in advance! These rigs are beasts! Very excited to get these mods going, as my rig is not drivable until I do.
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