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Cleaning Pulleys

36K views 51 replies 23 participants last post by  adam12_4 
#1 · (Edited)
Edit - See Post 2 by ferguson for the "how to" on cleaning.

And here are two posts by TCao showing the location of the belt tensioner and the serpantine diagram


Well, even though I got my alternator working after a run in with a mud pit, my engine sounds like a diesel at idle. I'm guessing my pulleys are dirty? Is there a way to clean them before they go bad, or is it dealer work? I am past my 3 year 36k warranty so if there is a way to do it myself it is worth it. The power train warranty is 5 years 60k, but I don't think this falls into that category.

Any help is appreciated. :)
 
#43 · (Edited)
I found that Lucas Red and Tacky #2 works quite well at keeping the water out. It was recommended by my NAPA guy even though he doesn't carry it! I found it at Murray's Auto for under $4 a tube! I'll be doing the birfs on my FJ62 with it!

Another thing to consider cleaning is your alternator. I did mine today and took out a few gobs of trail cabbage and chunked up mud. Between cleaning all the pulleys and the alternator, my rig is now back to sounding normal.
 
#44 ·
Well my pulleys are starting to go bad too, and I decided to lookup part numbers for pricing and
I discovered that all the FJ parts are donors from other Toyota vehicles mostly tacoma
Maybe with the below information, someone could find stronger/beefier ones
made by a different manufacture at NAPA or PepBoys

Code:
Part#       Part description            Shared with Toyota Model
------------------------------------------------------------------
16371-0P010 Pulley waterPump		tundra, 4.0l 2005 - 2006
15103-0P010 Pulley OilPump		4-runner, 4.0l 2003 - 2007
16604-0P010 Pulley UpperIdler		tacoma, 4.0l, 2005 - 2007
16603-0P020 Pulley LowerIdler		tacoma, 2.7l 2005 - 2007
13470-0P010 Pully CrankShaft		tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
27411-31210 Pulley Altenator		tacoma, 4.0 liter 2006
16620-31012 Pulley BeltTensioner	tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
90916-02571 SerpBelt			tundra, 4.0l 2005 - 2006


16100-09470 WaterPump Assy		tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
16210-0P010 ClutchFan			tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
16361-31060 Fan				tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
44310-35660 Steering Pump and Pulley	4-runner, V6 2003 - 2007
27060-31120 Alternator + Pulley		tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
 
#46 ·
Code:
Part#       Part description            Shared with Toyota Model
------------------------------------------------------------------
16371-0P010 Pulley waterPump        tundra, 4.0l 2005 - 2006
15103-0P010 Pulley OilPump        4-runner, 4.0l 2003 - 2007
16604-0P010 Pulley UpperIdler        tacoma, 4.0l, 2005 - 2007
16603-0P020 Pulley LowerIdler        tacoma, 2.7l 2005 - 2007
13470-0P010 Pully CrankShaft        tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
27411-31210 Pulley Altenator        tacoma, 4.0 liter 2006
16620-31012 Pulley BeltTensioner    tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
90916-02571 SerpBelt            tundra, 4.0l 2005 - 2006


16100-09470 WaterPump Assy        tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
16210-0P010 ClutchFan            tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
16361-31060 Fan                tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
44310-35660 Steering Pump and Pulley    4-runner, V6 2003 - 2007
27060-31120 Alternator + Pulley        tacoma, 4.0l 2005 - 2007
i have a 4runners power steering pump and pulley :mecry:
 
#45 ·
So, this is still a problem for many. Mine are dead again, after a very brief introduction to a muddy/wet section of trail on the weekend. So I'm wondering, has anybody found a proper CURE for this (better parts/bearings/modification etc?). Replacing/relubing/rebuilding 3-4 idler pulleys after every watery encounter seems totally unacceptable, and staying out of water/mud while on the trails is just not realistic. And visiting the dealer with the same story every couple months can't work either...

I've heard rumour that Toyota has a TSB on this. If anybody has a copy they can post, I'd sure appreciate it.

Cheers!
 
#47 · (Edited)
Not to hassle or anything, but the picture by picture guide isn't really THAT In depth...I need to clean and grease mine, but I'm still kinda worried. But mine are def making noise..It's the idlers for sure. And Toyota of course says it's "normal" :(

And as nik said..it is a little excessive for these things to be going bad so easily. Do you actually have to replace them, or is cleaning\greasing them going to make them fine? If so, then I need to start learning how to do this and I'll just do it every 10k or so.

Question though. With taking these off, these will spin right? So how do you get them to not spin when taking them off? And is anything going to fall out from behind them when I do (springs etc?) and do you have to take the belt off? If so, to get it off do you have to do anything, and when you put it back on do you have to torque it up or anything? This is my first time ever doing this so any advice would be GREATLY appreciated...

Also, why would people bother using mineral spirits\gas etc? So far with things LIKE this I've had great luck with Simple Green solvent.
 
#48 · (Edited)
OK, I'm no expert, but I have had the chance to watch a Toyota tech change mine, however I've never actually done it myself. With that disclaimer out of the way, this is what I Saw.

What he did, was:
1) raise the vehicle to a height where he could work comfortably underneath it (hoist, shoulder high).

2) There is an auto tensioner (spring loaded lever arm with pulley on the end) on the serpentine belt. The bolt holding that pulley to the auto tensioner is a left hand thread (backwards).

3) Put a 14mm? wrench on the bolt of the auto tensioner pulley and slack off the tension on the serpentine belt. I believe to loosen the belt you turn in the conventional "tightening" direction (clockwise). This will compress the spring, and loosen the belt.

4) While it is slack, (2 options here I think)
1) using some form of block (allen key) hold the auto tensioner in the slack position as depicted in the posted pics. or
2) using your free hand slip the belt off a pulley (a smooth one is easier than a grooved one) This is how the tech did it.

5) Spin each of the idler pulleys to determine which one is making the noise

6) remove the bolt holding the affected idler pulley to the block. There are no springs, but I think there may be a washer (please correct me if I'm wrong) between the bolt and the idler, and the design of the pulley is such that when it is tightened the bolt stops before hitting any moving parts. These are a regular lefty-loosey, righty-tighty thread.

Re-install by reversing these directions... Torque on the bolts for the idlers is about 30 ft-lbs if I recall correctly, again, please correct me if I'm wrong.

All said and done, 2 new pulleys installed, truck back off the hoist and driveable this took the tech approx 10 minutes. I was impressed. Too bad it happens so often.

Anyway, I hope this helps you. If your vehicle is still under warranty, I'd certainly explore that route first, but it never hurts to learn how to do the work yourself.

If anybody has anything to correct, or add to this please do. LIke I said at the beginning of the post, that is what I SAW. There may be more to it than what I described here.

Cheers,
 
#50 ·
What are the NAPA part numbers? My local store can't find anything.
 
#51 ·
#52 ·
Cleaned & lubed mine no Joy! The NAPA ones did the trick. Thanks for the tip!
 
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