These motors are liquid cooled NOT air cooled. I can not see how venting a little 2" x 12" hole in the hood would cool it enough to add any horsepower. Any horsepower that would be gained would be lost by increased drag with the air going into the vast engine cavity
I agree with you on this concern.. alot more dust will get in and that can eventually wear down components faster.
Jason, I had the exact same concern until realizing that we have an enormous fan in there blasting in a ton of dusty air already. In fact, we might even see hot air coming OUT of the slit, that fan is so big. So, the amount of air coming in through the hood slit is almost insignificant in comparison.
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Landrover previously said:
I was thinking louvers like on the old FJ's would be a nice way to get the heat out without opening up the front end as it's really about letting the heat out more than getting the air in right?
Landrover you are correct. I would only add that we are only trying to cool specifically the air around the engine air intake ... not the engine itself. But you knew that already.
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effjae previously said:
How can less heat = more horsepower? If I missed the explanation, please point me to it.
Thanks
Quote:
tnoice previously said:
These motors are liquid cooled NOT air cooled. I can not see how venting a little 2" x 12" hole in the hood would cool it enough to add any horsepower. Any horsepower that would be gained would be lost by increased drag with the air going into the vast engine cavity
As said above we are not trying to cool the engine. The goal is to lower the temperature of the air going into the engine's air intake - only.
This increases the density of the air, which increases the combustibility of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinders. The rule is that for every degree you can lower the temperature of this air, you gain a little over 1 hp. More for bigger engines.
If you really want to debate engine theroy, we could discuss Loosing Hp via retarded ignition timing beacuse of superheated air not supporting proper combustion resulting in pre-ignition or detonation.
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Jason, I had the exact same concern until realizing that we have an enormous fan in there blasting in a ton of dusty air already. In fact, we might even see hot air coming OUT of the slit, that fan is so big. So, the amount of air coming in through the hood slit is almost insignificant in comparison.
Landrover you are correct. I would only add that we are only trying to cool specifically the air around the engine air intake ... not the engine itself. But you knew that already.
As said above we are not trying to cool the engine. The goal is to lower the temperature of the air going into the engine's air intake - only.
This increases the density of the air, which increases the combustibility of the air/fuel mixture in the cylinders. The rule is that for every degree you can lower the temperature of this air, you gain a little over 1 hp. More for bigger engines.
Correct sir. This principal was used very well a few months back in Road & Track when they had a top speed shoot-out. The guys from Hennessy Viper were laying ice-packed towels on the intake manifold of the 1100 HP viper to get that little extra oomph (as if it needed it, it went 100 to 200 MPH in under 13 seconds).
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"Strive for perfection in everything.
Take the best that exists and make it better.
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Accept nothing nearly right or good enough"
After posting to the Engine cover question, I've been asked by lots of people for pictures on how I vented the stock hood. As I said before this Mod is intended to allow heat to escape and not be a Supra style ram air inlet. In addition to this I have removed the engine cover and observed about a 30 deg F temp drop when crawling in Az in 115 deg ambient.
The jop is pertty straight forward. You will need a steady hand to cut the Plastic after removing the Fake grill. After that Mark all the holes and drill out using a 1'' Unibit and spray paint black. These holes will lead into pocket, I chose to drill out the back side too and touch up w/ Toyota touch up paint. Lastly, Form your mesh on a bench, cut corners for a boxed edge, and bond to plastic using Permatex sillicone. This is a cheap mod and way easier than posting pictures on a forum.
I've got a breather unit in the works for the URD Supercharger intake similar (but a bit different) in the works myself. We'll be posting a full workup when we're a) done and b) have finally gotten the thing on a 4-wheel dyno.
Congrats on this job!
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TLCA#17822 / FCC:KD0ECN
'07-6MT-FJC...and a whole BUNCHA stuff.
----
My thanks to Budbuilt, Valentine One, Cobra,
URD, Lucrum, KC, Tuffy, Springtail, Engel,
BFG, Cobra, Yaesu
----
"And I find it kind of funny
I find it kind of sad
The dreams in which I'm dying
Are the best I've ever had
I find it hard to tell you
'Cos I find it hard to take
When people run in circles
It's a very, very
Mad World"
Forgive me, I'm still not getting this, I have two questions:
1. The intake air on the FJ is coming from passenger side front wheel well, so how does putting more air in the engine compartment help?
2. If you get an additional 1 HP per degree reduction in temperature, does this mean you have 50 more horsepower when it is sucking in air when it is 27 degrees outside versus when it is 77 degrees outside? I ask this because today I drove up into the mountains early in the morning and it was 27 degrees, coming back into town it was up to 77 and there wasn't any perceivable difference in power.
ok, the 1 hp per degree increase is reffering to intake air temperatures, not ambient air temp.
Sounds reasonable to me.
The reason I'm re-working the intake 'fake scoop' on my FJ is that for the URD supercharger, the intake filter sits pretty much RIGHT below & behind the fake scoop, so that as long as one take steps to keep water more or less away from the intake filter, the supercharger is taking in cooler air, meaning that the compressed air it sends to the intercooler is cooler, reducing the load on the intercooler and resulting in overall cooler, denser air entering the chamber. Which, of course, is the whole point.
As for intakes in the "standard" position, I can still see how allowing cooler air into the engine compartment could help (at least a little) in terms of reducing intake temps. And I have a hard time seeing how lower intake temps is a bad idea, supercharger or no, CAI or no, etc. Cooler parts, cooler air, cooler components all over the engine compt. can only help prolong life of the various materials the hoses, wires, connectors, metals, etc.
__________________
TLCA#17822 / FCC:KD0ECN
'07-6MT-FJC...and a whole BUNCHA stuff.
----
My thanks to Budbuilt, Valentine One, Cobra,
URD, Lucrum, KC, Tuffy, Springtail, Engel,
BFG, Cobra, Yaesu
----
"And I find it kind of funny
I find it kind of sad
The dreams in which I'm dying
Are the best I've ever had
I find it hard to tell you
'Cos I find it hard to take
When people run in circles
It's a very, very
Mad World"
ok, the 1 hp per degree increase is reffering to intake air temperatures, not ambient air temp.
Just trying to learn here, what is the differnce between the two? Per the example I gave, if the ambient air being sucked into the air intake hose at the wheel well is 27 degrees, what is "intake air" temp, and the same for ambient air of 77 degrees, what is "intake air" temp?
7 chicken necks installed to date
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