20 bucks and three hours.....

[speedy]

Yesterday, I picked some up and decided to do the roof and back interior panels minus the floor board. The noise of the ARB roof rack and drone of the exhaust has not gone away but the noise level went down to a tolerable level. The decision is still out for the insulation benefit inside the truck. I should find out in January when I do the "Camino del Diablo" expedition. I did not do the floor board because there just isn't any space and doing so would look like a pillow underneath it.

It was an easy job with the exception of the headliner. Taking it off was easy and intuitive but gravity is not your friend when you are adjusting the insulation to fit between the roof ribs.

I would recommend Dynamatting ( or some other thin application) the Headliner and Floorboards. The floorboard is where the rest of the drone is coming into the interior.


I didn't take the seat belt off but just moved the panel and seats to the side.

here is the location where Trainman0978 was talking about in where to stuff the insulation:


Here is the Panel and the 14mm bolt to remove the seat back. I just moved it to the side.


Here is confirmation that even though I do not have rear speakers, The wiring is back there underneath the blank.



Anyone know what this connector is for? The GPS or XM option?




Tools needed:
14 mm socket
10 mm socket
Phillips screw driver
Flat blade screw driver

I hope this helps

Cheers,

[RavenFJ]

[Anyone know what this connector is for? The GPS or XM option?

Attachment 17492


That connector is in the dome light/ ceiling speaker harness, so it goes to one or the other.

[speedy]

Dome light still works and I have ceiling speakers as I saw it when I removed the headliner. This must go to something else.

RavenFJ previously said:

[Anyone know what this connector is for? The GPS or XM option?

Attachment 17492


That connector is in the dome light/ ceiling speaker harness, so it goes to one or the other.

[trainman0978]

did you fill up the whole quarter panel, and the rear door?

and yes i think that dynamatting and insulation is the only way to get the "full" effect, but the difference is noticeable and worth the money spent-time consumed equation.

[VooDude]

my dad works in construction and warned me of the tendency of fiberglass insulation to hold moisture and thus have the possibility of resulting in mold... i'm still going to try this mod, but consider yourselves warned of the possibility... might keep an eye out for this.

[trainman0978]

VooDude previously said:

my dad works in construction and warned me of the tendency of fiberglass insulation to hold moisture and thus have the possibility of resulting in mold... i'm still going to try this mod, but consider yourselves warned of the possibility... might keep an eye out for this.

Right. which is why It is not anywhere that is near any electrical, and it is not packed in too tight that it will be able to dry out in the heat of the day. Also, as a precaution, because of the moisture, It won't be any real work to take it out and put new stuff in its place a few years down the road. Any insulation or batting will have a tendacy to grow mold if it gets wet. The rear quarters should actually get any water in them, and any condensation built up will have to very small amounts and come from moisture most likely from inside the truck.

Even with knowing about this, you still can't go wrong doing it.