Using factory jack with a lift???

[homedad]

OME heavy front and rear with 285's....no problem with the bottle jack....I've used it many times....on pavement!!!

[Wiz-of-Awd]

Kramer previously said:

Your rear will be fine. But changing a tire in the FRONT will be a trick.
I use a 4x4 (or 2 2x4's stacked), but haven't done so since my OME+Toytec fronts were installed.
I'll let you know if a 4x4 block is enough. Should be if my math works out. (That-is 3.5" lift over stock...3.5" block of wood under stock jack. YES!)

Front end should still be fine also...

A simple FJ front lift with a coilover is simply preloading or pre-extending your front suspension beyond it's factory angle. This is where the "lift" comes from. The fact remains though, at least with stock control arms, that the point your suspension will droop to with the weight of the truck off of it is really no different (except for a small bit of forced over-extension from the heavier/longer springs).

The only remaining variable for clearance is tire size. That is the difference in the radius from a stock tire to whatever replaces it.

A.W.D.

[uphill]

I know it's a factory jack thread, but if you're new and reading this - and you're contemplating a hi-lift jack, remember to add the WABFAB attachment to hook to your sliders.

WABFAB



It's a safety necessity because the Hi-Lifts are unstable.

[rroberto1]

So I'm guessing I will still be able to use the stock bottle jack for my fronts even if I have a 2" leveling lift? I actually thought it was impossible after putting the front lift in...I hope it isn't though! let me know. Cheers guys.

[Erik]

With the Icon suspension lift and 285/70/17 tires, the factory jack will be little help unless you use a block of wood to extend the jack or use a different spot. Using the jack normally, I think you would be able to remove a flat tire and then have the unpleasant surprise of finding you're too low to install the spare.

I bought an ARB X-Jack this week and was impressed. The exhaust method of inflating the jack did not work for me, but it was a quick job with my DC air compressor.

[VoltsAndBolts]

I just installed the 3” Toytec lift a month ago.

If you read the manual it tells you to jack the rear from under the axle so the only height change there is from your new tire radius.

Front says to jack from under the frame, which is now 3” higher.

I don’t know the max height of the stock jack, but I would carry a wood block for sure.

(Better to have it and not need it, than need it and not have it…)

[NCFJ]

uphill previously said:

I know it's a factory jack thread, but if you're new and reading this - and you're contemplating a hi-lift jack, remember to add the WABFAB attachment to hook to your sliders.

WABFAB



It's a safety necessity because the Hi-Lifts are unstable.

I agree with the slider adapter, although I made mine with scrap steel rather than buy one. Used the money to take my girlfriend to dinner.

[VoltsAndBolts]

Wile I was running my coax cable for my CB the other day, I had the jack pulled out so I decided to check to see how it would work with my lift.

First I cranked the jack full down. Plus one turn up. It was 8” tall.
Second cranked full extension then back one turn. It was 13 5/8” tall.
This was just to get it out of it’s stops.

I have the Toytec lift with the OME mediums up front and the Toytec customs in the rear. 285/70R17 BFG AT's

I took a photo of the clearance between the jack at full height and the frame . At lest 4”

If you have a flat on the front you won’t be changing it without a wood block or a new jack. I’ll post the pic later if I remember too.