Scanguage shows (for me) neutral at a stop is around 7-8xx rpm when warmed up. In Drive and at a stop its around 560rpm-ish.
Correct, i have noticed the RPM raises when in idle. Is there a hours/gallon or gallons/hour setting on the scanguage. Some boats have this (Nautiques) since they go by hours and not miles or knots.
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Who's excited for Katemcy Wheel-toberfest. I is excited!!!
I have heard that routinely throwing your vehicle into neutral to coast is bad on the transmission. Has anyone else heard this?
I did have an idea. This probably can't be calculated because in order to calculate MPG you need to be moving. But, does it consume less gas to sit at a light in neutral than it does to sit with your foot on the brake? If you are in drive, the vehicle is trying to push forward a little bit and trying to use a minute amount of horsepower. In neutral, no horsepower. Is this accurate or is it so minimal it is not even worth it?
My scangague shows no difference in neutral at a stop, I have it set to show Gallons per hour as well as MPG. I have not heard of a creating a problem by coasting in neautral.
My scangague shows no difference in neutral at a stop, I have it set to show Gallons per hour as well as MPG. I have not heard of a creating a problem by coasting in neautral.
The gas you might save by shifting to neutral will just go into early transmission repairs. Think about it, when you go back to Drive you are re-engaging the friction disks causing them to wear out quicker. Along with that you have shift solenoids that have to be re-energize, pressure surges, and other stuff going on in there. It kinda makes me think of the light bulb that is switched on and off untill it burns out.
The gas you might save by shifting to neutral will just go into early transmission repairs. Think about it, when you go back to Drive you are re-engaging the friction disks causing them to wear out quicker. Along with that you have shift solenoids that have to be re-energize, pressure surges, and other stuff going on in there. It kinda makes me think of the light bulb that is switched on and off untill it burns out.
I agree with that completely. Don't forget you have tension on U-Joints and other gears clunking in and out. The gears are sort of sloppy so it doesn't seem like it can be good. I like others specified that I didn't want a roof rack I'd never use and I have a 4 X 4 Auto. I average almost never less than 18.5 MPG per tank with city/hwy driving combined and on a recent road trip, got over 21. Gas prices completely SUCK but 21 MPG for a big, heavy, square vehicle isn't bad by comparison to many others I've had.
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2008 Brick FJ, 4X4, AT, Conv Package, Off Road Package. First Mod: Demello-Offroad Custom Square Tube Sliders.
I'm actually in the process of trying to recover my MPG having since started stock, no roofrack to getting the ARB rack, mounting my Hi-Lift with the fourtreks mounts, to adding the OME hard spring lift to adding BFG KM2's. Last week I got the scangage and I recommend this to anyone, stock or not; but I wanted to fully look at how this all changed from start to finish. In stock I only once hit 20 MPG on the highway. Usually it bounces between 18.5-19.5 (have the excel sheet if anyone wants it), so my highway efficiency is about 90-95% of stock numbers (before the lift and tyres). Since the lift and tyres, my highway efficiency dropped to about 15-16 (with my blackbox in the back, wife and kids + gear). Two days ago I swapped the stock muffler for the Magnaflow P11226 and my CITY effiiciency just jumped from 14 to 18.5 MPG. This may be because I'm more conscious of the scangage, but immediately with the same driving habits I gained 3-4 MPG during acceleration and cruising use stays around 18.5 in the CITY. I've yet to take it out on the highway for a full tank, and I'll remind everyone that I live in Houston (it sucks, believe me).
After I get some good numbers, I'm going to install my safari snorkel for additional efficiency, sorry no CAI for me. I'll post back here when I get this complete and have my excel sheet to prove the efficiency.
Cheers to all and if you can make fairy dust to lighten the load, lemme know I'd look into that too.
PS I use a mix of 87-93 oct, Shell I find give me good numbers, as well as Exxon fuel. Everything else runs worse.
first thing you do is eat lot's of carbs and drink plenty of H2O , take a healthy dump in the morning, then ride......oh wait! That's my cycling routine
To cut my mileage down I've been cycling a lot more. It's keeps ya fit and saves on gas big time!
Two days ago I swapped the stock muffler for the Magnaflow P11226 and my CITY effiiciency just jumped from 14 to 18.5 MPG. This may be because I'm more conscious of the scangage, but immediately with the same driving habits I gained 3-4 MPG during acceleration and cruising use stays around 18.5 in the CITY.
Is it loud? I'll do this if it helps but I don't want a loud tail pipe. Thx.
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My FJ Cruiser videos on YouTube and Vimeo
I thought it would be, but its a nice decent low end rumble. At cruising its hardly noticeable at all. The best part is all in acceleration (cool!) plus it kicks ups the horses a little bit, throwing you back into the seat a bit more.
I also forgot to mention that I changed my engine oil and diff oil to royal purple (made a small difference) and changed the air filter to K&N (noticeable HPs from a dead stand still). The price for the Magnaflow is about $70, whereas the whole kit plus pipe is like $400...way too expensive, so I bought just the muffler and paid $50 to a small time installer to put it in, after about 2 hrs it was custom fitted and ready to roll and sounded AWESOME. Nice to have the full on benefits of an exhaust system without the cost. At this rate I'll pay for its performance at the pump in about 50 days or so.
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