I've done a ton of searching and have found a lot of great info on the part-time 4WD systems on the AT FJ vs full time 4WD MT...Also a huge thanks to everyone who responded to my first thread here in this section regarding when to use 4H and 4L and when to stay in 2WD...You guys and gals all freaking rock here I love this forum!!!
Yesterday afternoon, my wife and I decided to hit a couple of beginners dirt roads littered with small bumps, shallow crevices, loose gravel and small rocks...The FJ handled it all beautifully, and shifting from 2H to 4H was a breeze both ways...I read up in the owners manual before we went out and memorized the recommended procedure to do so (gotta love an easy to read instructions booklet)...I remembered to go as slow as possible, yet as fast as needed and read the awesome articles by Bill Burke before heading out...I engaged 4H once we were off of the pavement and I found my line...I left the auto stick in "D" the entire time, and it seemed to get us through the terrain no problem...In fact, I barely had to gas it to keep us moving...Only once when we were at a slight slant did I go into 4L to get better traction and keep us moving straight ahead, and went right back to 4H ASAP...
Here's a couple of questions that keep nagging at me now that I could really use some advice on...
When shifting between the 4WD gears I put the auto stick in "N"...The entire time we traversed the terrain the auto stick was in "D"...I know I didn't harm anything on my rig as again it was a basic beginners back road at best...However, I would like to know if and when I should move the auto stick into 4, 3, 2 and L??? I know that when climbing and descending steep hills I should always use 4L with the auto stick in L to get maximum traction and take advantage of engine compression...When climbing moderate to slight hills without rough terrains I can sort of gas it to get momentum and leave it in 4H...When does it become necessary to move the auto stick into a locked lower gear???
BTW every time I get out off of the pavement in my rig I get more and more confident in what it can do...I'm becoming convinced these things truly are built like tanks!!! Having a knowledgeable community here has been a huge help too
To sum up & answer your questions a little:
When going down a steep hill, as you've already noted, it's definitely best to be in 4L and L on the trans. This will enable you to crawl down and not lose traction or go to fast.
For relatively easy uphills, there is nothing wrong with keeping it in 4H and D, as long as you're comfortable. If the hill is steeper and/or loose, you'll want drop back into 4L and chose your transmission gear accordingly, again to ensure you don't lose traction.
Of course, you'll never go wrong with it in 4L and taking it easy, but for most easy to moderate trails, 4L shouldn't be required all the time.
Shane explains this very nicely. I am a relatively new offroader too, but I have learned quickly that if you are going up or down steep terrain, especially with loose sand or rocks, then your best setup is 4L with the tranny on L. You can then just leave the engine to idle you through most obstacles while tapping the gas lightly (on uphills) or the brakes lightly (on downhills) as needed. On difficult terrain, make sure your A-Trac is engaged, and only use your differential lock in hairy situations and only briefly.
I highly recommend going out with other experienced FJers', so when you're on the trail, you'll learn from them via CB communications. I did this, and I have not only learned a lot, but had mucho fun doing it.
I live in the mountains and am on very steep trails and roads all the time. You can tell when the vehicle is straining. If it strains in 4H, then shift into 4L. When I decent very steep hills in rough terrain, I use 4L an L to give me as much compression braking as I can get to maintain a slow safe speed. I also use the gearshift lever to select gears very often since I am trying to maintain control and or speed. Going uphill in 4H, I typically leave it in D unless the trans shifts allot due to an undulating surface. If that's the case I will lock it into whatever gear keeps the engine humming along smoothly.
You'll be amazed at how far you can go in just 2WD with the FJ.
Just take it out and play and practice some more. Just listen to your vehicle it will communicate to you what you should or should not be doing.
Have Fun.
DEWFPO
__________________ 2007 FJ, 5AT, Sun Fusion Yellow, CQ, UP, GY, RB, 2Q, EL, VS.
"Wanted - young, skinny, wiry fellows, not over 18. Must be expert riders willing to risk death daily. Orphans preferred"
Original newspaper add placed by William Hepburn Russell, founder of the The Pony Express
Another reason to select a gear other than D or 4 would be if you were driving on a trail where you didn't want to go faster than say 20 mph. Select 2, then if you inadvertantly try to go too fast the high engine rev will be a sound warning to remind you to slow back down.
If you are on a trail with known obstacles (turns, bumps, drop offs) and are going fast when roughness suddenly appears, you will find it necessary to hard brake. Ideally you want to approach all rough spots with plenty of reaction time and a chance to pick a good line. By exercising driving speed discipline you will become a much better offroader and consequently punish your passengers and vehicle less.
TV advertisements for 4x4's and the vehicle going fast and bouncing along (getting air) in an offroad situation, it is easy to see why a novice get the wrong idea. Anyone who plans on keeping their vehicle more than a couple years will not treat it this way. Very few of us can afford to drive like we have entered the Baja. To most of us the FJ Cruiser is our daily driver.
__________________
“Kansas Law Dog” for admiration of “Tombstone”, the movie, and the legend of Wyatt Earp
Thanks so much for all of the input...You all make some really good points, and believe me I'm taking it all into consideration and literally making notes...I'm working on a 4x4 notebook of all of the procedures and do's and don'ts...Also noting a lot of trail safety precautions and ways to make sure I tread as lightly as possible...I might have it all mastered and memorized somewhere down the line, but the way I see it, it always helps to have a quick reference guide for yourself or someone else when you're out on the trails
I do have another issue though and it fits in here so I thought I'd get some more opinions from everyone...I decided to have some fun and hit the same backroad I did that sparked this thread...Again, all went just fine and the FJ just ate it up and asked for seconds...I was coasting in neutral slowly as I was about to re-enter the paved road, and went to put it back into 2H...It didn't want to go into gear though...This was odd because it usually slides smoothly into gear when coasting in neutral...I didn't force it though and stayed off of the gas...I came to a stop and then gave it a little gas in 4H and as I did so, there was a slight buzzing that seemed to be coming from the compass/clock gauge stack...It was dead center in the middle of the dash and became a bit louder as I accelerated, but then disappeared as I got anywhere past 5mph or so??? I'm confused on this one...The noise completely disappeared once I was back in 2H and didn't return when in 4H either...
Do you think I was getting a little driveline binding??? I had the windows down and couldn't hear or feel anything strange outside or under my rig, it was like your average dashboard buzz I got in cheaper cars I've owned...When I got home I checked for leaks and smells too, and everything was tip top...If for some reason I was getting some binding, can a little bit say for less than 10 seconds (and well under 10mph tops) hurt anything??? Could this be the mysterious glovebox noise that has been cured by prying the heat shield away from the CAT???
I cannot offer much explanation to what you experienced when shifting from 4H to 2H. However, the automatic version of the FJ Cruiser is an electronic shift.
The transfer case is actually a direct drive (both the front and rear drive shafts turn all the time). The connection to drive the front wheels occurs through the front differential. The front differential is built with a A.D.D. (automatic disengaging differential) that is engaged when you have selected 4H and disengaged in 2H. Possibly the noise (buzz) was the electronic attempt to disengaged from 4 wheel drive, although I'm not sure why this would have been the case if you were coasting during the shifting event. I assume that when you say coasting to a stop, your foot was not on the brake, even lightly.
In any case, your method of shifting should not result in any damage to the vehicle.
__________________
“Kansas Law Dog” for admiration of “Tombstone”, the movie, and the legend of Wyatt Earp
To sum up & answer your questions a little:
When going down a steep hill, as you've already noted, it's definitely best to be in 4L and L on the trans. This will enable you to crawl down and not lose traction or go to fast.
For relatively easy uphills, there is nothing wrong with keeping it in 4H and D, as long as you're comfortable. If the hill is steeper and/or loose, you'll want drop back into 4L and chose your transmission gear accordingly, again to ensure you don't lose traction.
Of course, you'll never go wrong with it in 4L and taking it easy, but for most easy to moderate trails, 4L shouldn't be required all the time.
Hope this helps!
I just put these driving techniques to use this past weekend in Harlan, Ky. On the steep hills 4Lo in L really worked great in keeping everything safe and controllable. Going up some steep hills I made it ok in 4Hi but also went into 4Lo to see the difference. Both worked ok but I did feel more comfortable in 4Lo. Especially when traction became an issue. Taking my time and choosing a Line made for a safe and trouble free weekend of great wheelin'.
__________________
"A Year Of Change"
2008 FJ-VooDoo blue/4x4/AT/GPS/K&N Air Filter/Revos/Up Pkg.2/VIP RS3200 Plus Security System/OEM Roof Rack/OEM Rock Rails/Tow Package/All Weather Floor Mats & Rear cargo Mat//Recovery strap.
I cannot offer much explanation to what you experienced when shifting from 4H to 2H. However, the automatic version of the FJ Cruiser is an electronic shift.
The transfer case is actually a direct drive (both the front and rear drive shafts turn all the time). The connection to drive the front wheels occurs through the front differential. The front differential is built with a A.D.D. (automatic disengaging differential) that is engaged when you have selected 4H and disengaged in 2H. Possibly the noise (buzz) was the electronic attempt to disengaged from 4 wheel drive, although I'm not sure why this would have been the case if you were coasting during the shifting event. I assume that when you say coasting to a stop, your foot was not on the brake, even lightly.
In any case, your method of shifting should not result in any damage to the vehicle.
Thanks again for even more sound advice Mr. Law Dog I've caught the bug man, I went out again today and there wasn't any noises to speak of. An isolated thign I'm not going to care about anymore
2007 FJ, 5AT, Sun Fusion Yellow, CQ, UP, GY, RB, 2Q, EL, VS.
"Enjoying the Journey"
Linear Mode
